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NP242 Selector


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This may sound like a dumb request, but does anyone have a picture of or a diagram that shows the orientation of the selector lever on a NP242 T-Case in relation to what gear it's In ?

I am starting to think my case is fubar as I can only seem to move it through 4 positions, and am unsure as to what range it's in atm.

 

Thanks in advance

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As far as I know, most transfer cases only have 4 positions. 2H,4H,N,4L. As to what position is what, If it's laying on the ground turn the input shaft. See what the output shaft does. If it doesn't move that's neutral. If it turns at the same speed that's high. Turns at half,approx, is low. If it's still in the vehicle and you can't figure it out, I dunno.

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The 242 sequence is:

 

2WD

4 Part Time

4 Full Time

N

4LO

 

Apparently I get only the 1st 3 or 4 when I move the selector manually from under the truck, or at least I think its the 1st three, thats why I was looking for a picture of the selector in the 4LO position . I've pretty much consigned myself to pulling the-case tomorrow now I just need to find another 23 spline 242 or 231 up here

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The TC shift lever on a 242, the one that bolts to the case it self goes on hanging downward. You can use the shift lever stamped 396 which is aprox 3 inches long. If you are using the 233 it is aprox 3 1/2 inches long and causes problems by striking the case before the gears will fully engage. Anyway that was my experience when I couldn't get full engagement of all 5 gear positions of the 242

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I'm dealing with making this work on my swap right now. I have an AX-15 mated to a later model NP242.

 

When the selector lever on the t-case is all the way up that is 2wd. The rod I have is from an AX-15/NP231 and it is just a bit too long. The AW4/NP231 is WAY too long for my application.

 

I was able to manually select down to 4 full time (2 clicks down) with the truck off and in my garage.

 

I did not try to go to Neutral and 4LO as I was nervous the truck needs to be running and moving a bit. Anyone know if I can select Neutral and 4Lo with the truck off???

 

 

The procedure to adjust the linkage is something like this:

 

-Put the tcase lever in the cab to 4LO, but place a 1/8" shim between the gate stop and the lever arm (a 1/8" drill bit works)

 

-Underneath the truck, loosen the adjustment bolt, check for binding then tighten down the bolt.

 

HTH

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To the best of my knowledge a MJ never came with the NP242 from the factory. If you have one someone along the line has swapped it in.

 

When I swapped in a NP242 in my old MJ I ended up using EVERYTHING associated with the NP242 (lever, mount, linkage, etc) to get it to work. I could not get it to work with the old (231) lever. It would not engage everything correctly.

 

Also the NP242 mount sits a bit different; it's been awhile but if I remember correctly I had to trim a bit of the opening on the tunnel to get it to fit correctly.

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To the best of my knowledge a MJ never came with the NP242 from the factory. If you have one someone along the line has swapped it in.

 

When I swapped in a NP242 in my old MJ I ended up using EVERYTHING associated with the NP242 (lever, mount, linkage, etc) to get it to work. I could not get it to work with the old (231) lever. It would not engage everything correctly.

 

Also the NP242 mount sits a bit different; it's been awhile but if I remember correctly I had to trim a bit of the opening on the tunnel to get it to fit correctly.

 

Pretty sure you are correct about the MJ never came from the factory with NP242, much less NO Jeep came from the factory with an AX-15 (or any Manual) bolted to an NP242. One of the reasons I decided to go with the NP242. :dunce:

 

Was your's behind an AW4 because that would make sense.

 

It looks like I would just have to cut the rod shorter and reweld for what I have to work.

 

Failing that, I'm going to try this:

 

http://www.bsfab.net/?p=26

 

I just picked up the inverted tcase lever from an '85 S-10 Blazer at the yard.

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I converted a 88 2WD using the D30,AW4,NP242 from a 91 Cherokee LTD I had been given, everything was swapped from the donor, tag on TC says 242J,shift bezel is for a 242 so I would assume I have a 242.

 

I was told it was off the road due to engine problems, TB, injectors had been pulled so we didn't bother trying to start it, we just yanked everything I needed for the swap. I an mow starting to think that the Tcase was the reason it was parked.

 

I can get it manually into 2WD it works fine, I can then cycle the selector, (by crawling underneath with a 14mm wrench) into what I believe is 4PT, and 4FT, neutral and 4LO seem to be none existant

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I'm dealing with making this work on my swap right now. I have an AX-15 mated to a later model NP242.

 

When the selector lever on the t-case is all the way up that is 2wd. The rod I have is from an AX-15/NP231 and it is just a bit too long. The AW4/NP231 is WAY too long for my application.

 

I was able to manually select down to 4 full time (2 clicks down) with the truck off and in my garage.

 

I did not try to go to Neutral and 4LO as I was nervous the truck needs to be running and moving a bit. Anyone know if I can select Neutral and 4Lo with the truck off???

 

 

The procedure to adjust the linkage is something like this:

 

-Put the tcase lever in the cab to 4LO, but place a 1/8" shim between the gate stop and the lever arm (a 1/8" drill bit works)

 

-Underneath the truck, loosen the adjustment bolt, check for binding then tighten down the bolt.

 

HTH

Keep in mind that the lever is pulled straight back from 2WD to 4PT to 4FT. Then the lever has to be pushed sideways, toward the tranny tunnel, before the lever can be pulled back to N and 4Lo. I've never watched from underneath while the shifter was run through the positions, but doesn't the lateral movement engage a different lever? Or is it only a detent to prevent accidently going farther than can be accomplished "on the fly"?

 

Of course you can select N and 4Lo with the case out of the vehicle, or the vehicle not running. The only reason it helps shifting to those positions if the vehicle is rolling SLOWLY is that they are not synchronized, so if things don't slip into place when you pull the lever, a 1 MPH roll will allow things to slip enough to engage. You won't hurt it shifting by hand -- if it doesn't want to go, turn the rear driveshaft manually and see if that lets things align.

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Keep in mind that the lever is pulled straight back from 2WD to 4PT to 4FT. Then the lever has to be pushed sideways, toward the tranny tunnel, before the lever can be pulled back to N and 4Lo. I've never watched from underneath while the shifter was run through the positions, but doesn't the lateral movement engage a different lever? Or is it only a detent to prevent accidently going farther than can be accomplished "on the fly"?

 

Of course you can select N and 4Lo with the case out of the vehicle, or the vehicle not running. The only reason it helps shifting to those positions if the vehicle is rolling SLOWLY is that they are not synchronized, so if things don't slip into place when you pull the lever, a 1 MPH roll will allow things to slip enough to engage. You won't hurt it shifting by hand -- if it doesn't want to go, turn the rear driveshaft manually and see if that lets things align.

 

It doesn't engage a different lever, it is there apparently so that you can't drop it into N or 4 Lo accidentally. It's supposed to be a safety feature, personally I think it's a pain and will be making one of these http://www.bsfab.net/?p=26 as soon as I get the pieces.

 

anyways, my problem has been solved, I jacked up one side of the truck so that both driver side wheels were off the ground, and by moving the wheels I was able to select every position, hooked up the linkage, adjusted it and so far (knock on wood) its working fine. :cheers:

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