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Posted

That's the proportioning valve for the rear brakes. Many of us don't trust them and have removed or by-passed it. There are several threads on this site discussing how to eliminate it.

Posted

I've elimated mine VIA threads on this forum using the stock brake distribution valve for the MJ (prob valve) and even with upgrading to a WJ master cylinder and booster I have 0 braking problems. No lockups or anything sketchy like that. Brakes work perfectly without that valve.

 

I'm not towing any large loads though, but I wouldnt hesitate to if my little 2.5 was up to the task :dunno:

Posted
My valve is leaking. If it just plain fails will the other line stop the truck?

 

I'm a big fan of the load sensing valve, but if it's leaking, the internal seals are shot and there are no more. So, either plumb in another valve from a Toyota p/u or similar (which I will do if and when mine fails), use an aftermarket inline manually adjustable prop valve like a Wilwood, or bypass it as per the many posts present. The "other" line may or may not be effective; not worth taking a chance mate. :cheers:

Posted

I removed mine and have one line now running to the rear of the truck.

 

Be carefull about getting hard on the brakes with no load in the bed. The rears WILL lock up before the front. I tested this to get a feel of the setup. Always keep that in the back of your mind.

 

I will say braking now in combo with the '95 XJ dual diapham booster is phenominal.

Posted
My valve is leaking. If it just plain fails will the other line stop the truck?

You mean the other line to the rear? No, it won't. If anything in the rear is leaking, you essentially have no rear brakes and the front brakes are doing all the work.

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