Transmission change.....

[one_bad_MJ]

trying to change my trans in my comanche. its a ba-10 and its pretty simple it looks like but the bell housing bolts are tight as F i bent a wrench truing to double up and loosen he bottom nuts.

 

 

for the most part i have the drive shafts off

t-case linkages

speedo cable

vac assy

and the trans mount bolts loosened

 

does the exhaust gotta come off to get this trans out??

if so someone welded the cat to the bracket.

 

 

i did some reading and i guess once you take off the cross member and lower the trans down you can get to the upper 2 bolts. and its a easy removal but that exhaust is going to be in the way.

 

 

well give me your input. I'm really thinking about taking it and getting it installed too much BS haha

 

i do my own mechanic work but this sucks. its like working on a DSM "90-92 turbo eclipse one big pain in the @$$"

[Wildman]

So..........you made it back home :D

 

Yes, you need to drop the exhaust, the cat bracket is supported on the tranny mount, that will slide right out.

 

An impact gun makes short work of getting the bolts out of the bell housing :roll:

 

You can leave the cross member on, and pull it that way, or remove it, and just deal with the tranny and transfer case as a unit. Best to have a tranny jack, but a floor jack will work.

 

When you drop the tranny down, yes, you'll see the external tork bolts on the top of the bell housing, and you'll be able to reach them.

 

When you do drop the tranny, watch you don't put the fan blades into the radiator :eek:

 

Don't drop it that much.

 

You didn't mention that you removed the starter, clutch line or the CPS, take them off before you get too far.

 

Have fun :wrench:

[one_bad_MJ]

the stupid dust plate bolts were holding it on i took them out an it came right off

 

i took off the t case to save weight

 

and i left the cps on the trans

 

 

but the starter was removed

 

trans is out i spun the shaft and the masin bearings have like 1/2" or more of play in them its a boat anchor now.

 

and my slave cyl is shot bearing is loose and its covered in brake fluid

[Wildman]

Well.......you figured the slave was shot, right??

 

Good thing you took that "extra" one :D

 

I meant to ask you about the old BA10, but your description of it tells me what I was wondering :roll:

 

Was the input shaft floating around much :rotfl2:

 

Oh.......and don't forget to double check that CPS before you jack it up in place, that's one of the first things off, and the last thing back on.

 

You said you have a boat?????

 

 

Now you have an anchor for the boat :teehee:

[one_bad_MJ]

its in, it works, clutch still needs bled more i have reverse yay!!!! thanks for the trans wildman

[one_bad_MJ]

Well.......you figured the slave was shot, right??

 

Good thing you took that "extra" one :D

 

I meant to ask you about the old BA10, but your description of it tells me what I was wondering :roll:

 

Was the input shaft floating around much :rotfl2:

 

Oh.......and don't forget to double check that CPS before you jack it up in place, that's one of the first things off, and the last thing back on.

 

You said you have a boat?????

 

 

Now you have an anchor for the boat :teehee:

 

ha funny the trans i pulled out had crazy shaft play and sounded like marbles in a tin can rolling around when i spun it, it was junk. and my slave cyl. was beat..... end of story it had more leaks then the hoover dam

 

cps is fine i test started it before i put everything back up.

[one_bad_MJ]

my clutch is still wierd still won't hold pressure the clutch slave cyl will pump and when you let it out the whole way it looses pressure until you pump it again. theres no leaks on the system i think the master cyl is bad

[Squeegy410]

tape a quarter to that old pugeot before you throw it in the river so you can say you lost something :rotf:

[Mongo]

Might just be the rubber plunger in the slave cylinder. I had the same issue and bought a rebuild kit for about $30.

[one_bad_MJ]

Might just be the rubber plunger in the slave cylinder. I had the same issue and bought a rebuild kit for about $30.

 

i got a factory slave from the junkyard it was in good working non leaking order haha i don't like the aftermarket slaves there junk and that stupid clamp on resovour leaks all the time

[-600JeepMJ]

i got a factory slave from the junkyard it was in good working non leaking order haha i don't like the aftermarket slaves there junk and that stupid clamp on reservoir leaks all the time

 

 

I have never seen a clamp on reservoir on a slave only on the master? :hmm:

[wannabeMJ]

sorry to :hijack: your post but I'm about to reput an engine in my comanche and I had a few questions

 

If I take the tranny and the t-case apart from the motor DO I HAVE to change parts or everything will work fine as I put everything back together ?

 

What are the parts that I SHOULD change while everything is apart ??

 

is there parts that are gonna break or will have a tendency to??

[one_bad_MJ]

sorry to :hijack: your post but I'm about to reput an engine in my comanche and I had a few questions

 

If I take the tranny and the t-case apart from the motor DO I HAVE to change parts or everything will work fine as I put everything back together ?

 

What are the parts that I SHOULD change while everything is apart ??

 

is there parts that are gonna break or will have a tendency to??

 

 

you will be fine.

my mission was to change that trans due to no reverse.

 

i simply took off my driveshafts

put the front axle on jackstands for more room like jacked it up 14"

then un hooked and drained my slave cyl connections

then my t-case vac stuff and speedo

then i unbolted the 4x4 t case select rod holder thing from the trans.

then the cossmember came off with a jack on the t-case

then i put the trans on a big jackstand and unbolted the t-case

the t-case has 6 9/16" nuts. these studs will come out with the nuts sometimes. soak them in PB blaster

if the studs come out wit the nuts you simple remove all buy that one and slide the t-case off as you unscrew it with your fingers. simple as that.

 

now the trans.

2-18mm bolts and nuts

2 16mm bolts

1-14mm starter bolt

1-15mm starter bolt

2 3/8" goofy hex bolts up top. mine were not that tight i used a air ratchet and a ext to get to them.

 

when all removed. there is a dust plate between the motor and the trans. it has 2 1/2" bolts on it. one is above the starter. the other is by the header underneath. i dod no re install these bolts because there pointless. your choice, all they do is hold that big shield when aligning the trans. a ba-10 weighs like 40lbs and you can maneuver it easily.

 

 

then once the trans is off inspect your slave cyl for leaks. and bearing play.

 

 

for instaltion do the steps in reverse.

 

 

i built a trans jack from a old jack pedestal, flexplate, and 2 2x4's and a 2x6" it worked great.

 

other then that good luck. i took my time on it and took 2 days first day dropped it in 2 hours. second install in 1 hour.

[one_bad_MJ]

i got a factory slave from the junkyard it was in good working non leaking order haha i don't like the aftermarket slaves there junk and that stupid clamp on reservoir leaks all the time

 

 

I have never seen a clamp on reservoir on a slave only on the master? :hmm:

 

 

yeah yeah its the clutch master. my typo