green_miner Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 What gauge sheet metal should i use to patch my floors and cab corners Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCF90 Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 I think 16 or 18 guage for the floors will work. Not sure about the cab corners though. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 I used 14ga. steel on the floors. Too thick to form with a hammer, but I didn't need to do much forming. I think the original floor is 18 gauge? I'd go to home depot, lowes, or tractor supply and try bending the stuff so you can get a feel which will be the easiest to work with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeegy410 Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 I forgot where it was, but when we were building a floor for my brothers 65 ford pickup we found a really good deal on 1'x1' galvenized sheet metal. it was about 18 gauge and worked really well. it mig welds just as easy as non galvenized and bent really well and is still strong. Just throwing that out there :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nhrocker Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 I used 14ga. steel on the floors. Too thick to form with a hammer, but I didn't need to do much forming. Sounds like you just need a bigger hammer! :cheers: Haven't had to do floors in an MJ yet, but I've done four XJ's so far. For most parts I used either 14 or 16, depending on what I could get for free/cheap scrap from my supplier. In XJ's the areas around both ends of the spring hangers are the first to rot out, and those I typically redo with 1/8" plate to make sure they don't go anywhere again. All pieces I form by hand to fit. I forgot where it was, but when we were building a floor for my brothers 65 ford pickup we found a really good deal on 1'x1' galvenized sheet metal. it was about 18 gauge and worked really well. it mig welds just as easy as non galvenized and bent really well and is still strong. Just throwing that out there :D Hopefully you fully ground off the galvanized surface before welding? Welding with the zinc coating still on there can release some nasty stuff that's very hazardous to your health. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 I used 14ga. steel on the floors. Too thick to form with a hammer, but I didn't need to do much forming. Sounds like you just need a bigger hammer! :cheers: Yes, this is true! :yes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeegy410 Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 haha yes we ground the surface, and if you don't grind it it also pops and fizzles and won't realy weld until it burns a hole in the metal :ack: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red 1989 MJ Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 Don't I use a front fender as metal sheet. :idea: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
green_miner Posted March 19, 2010 Author Share Posted March 19, 2010 for my dad's floors in his 88 mj we're using a old hood skin but i don't think that there will be enough for me to do mine out of the same metal. thanks for the help guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avnsteve Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 20 ga is the stock dimension, cold rolled can be had for about 60 bux 4x10 sheet, and you'll easily find something to do with the rest... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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