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pics of a cool jeep i found today


STERLING STINGER
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Unless the bed was changed, that's a 1973 J4000.

 

1972's had different taillights & tailgate,

1974's were designated J20 for the 3/4 ton's, and 8 lug (6 lug for J10's),

so it's a 73.

 

The badge says 360,

73 was the first year for a 360/4bbl (P-code) in a J truck.

N-code 360 2bbl's were also available (401's went into in J-trucks in 74').

 

Look for an N, or a P in the VIN if you want to know 360 2v vs 4v.

 

Tranny is either a TH400 auto, or a T-18 granny low 4spd. (I don't think the 3spd std was available in the J4000 that year. :dunno:

 

If it's still origional:

 

Semi-floating D60 rear, most likely 4.10's, but other gears were optional.

This is a desirable 5 on 5.5" 35 spline D60 (and not a C-clip SF 60 like they put in Fords),

but the wheel bearings are crazy expensive if/when they go ($100 each would be a good price for the bearings).

 

 

The ft end is a D44, but with closed knuckle ball ends (wimpier shafts, poor turning radius, etc).

12x2" drums all around. :ack:

 

Ft suspension is also not great,

it's SOA, but with thin leafs (2", or 1.75", I forget now).

1974 was the changeover year when they went to a Waggy style ft suspension (2.5" leafs/SUA, and open knuckle ft 44's).

1973 was the last of the older, less desirable stuff. (tho also the last year for 5 on 5.5" bolt patturn in 1/2 & 3/4 tons).

Check the frame for rust too, the J-truck frames weren't that great back then (1976 was a big improvement)

 

 

I had this same exact truck 10 years ago,

 

The brakes are marginal when everything is perfect, horrible when wet, and if you have 4.10's, a tall skinny 32, or 33 would be your best bet to keep RPM's down.

 

I never got more than 10 or 11 MPG out of mine,

and that was with a modern (at the time) OEM Holley carb off a late model Ford.

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These still tend to go pretty cheaply (look at the one that's for sale on here right now),

tho it actually has a bed, and tailgate, so that would be pretty good around here. (Rustachusetts).

I don't know if Pa has rust issues as bad as we do.

 

That plow looks old, if it's an old belt driven hydrolic it's probably had parts canibalized off it by now.

If the plow is non-working, it shouldn't add to the price. (if anything price should be lower for perceived wear & tear).

 

Typically these early J's go in the $300-$800 range, anything over $1000 usually has shiny paint & pretty wheels, but still has the deathtrap brakes.

 

I posted some links to convert these closed knuckle 44's to disc brakes here:

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=21367&start=15

 

Tall skinny tires (those wheels are probably 16's, so 215/85R16's are a good size to go with), and disc brake swap would be my first 2 mods after buying one of these.

 

I still miss mine :yes:

:cheers:

 

Cut the rotted bed & last rotted foot off the frame, and ran a 7' wood flatbed on mine.

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Couple more pics for inspiration ;)

 

 

I ended up adding a whole bunch of Waggy goodies, and the Rhino grille

 

Those are 32x12.5 old school Mickey's on 10" wheels, borrowed of a buddy's CJ for a while

(hey, they were cool in 1994 :chillin: )

 

Tho it looked like the Sanford & Son truck most of the time I owned it:

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If you wanted full width, the rear wouldn't be bad, but you can do lot better than the closed knuckle 44 ft,

plus it's passenger side drop, so it wouldn't work with any stock MJ transfercase.

 

 

That 60 rear uses two different length axle shafts,

if you got another one of the short sides, you could cut the housing down, and end up with a 60-ish wide 35 spline 5 on 5.5" D60 rear, using all factory Jeep parts. :chillin:

 

Like I said tho, the biggest downfall to this axle is the unique, hard to find, expensive axle bearings.

 

If you cut it down to 60" wide, it would be a good match to a 1980-91 Waggy ft end, converted to 5 on 5.5" (or a Ford HP 44 cut down to Waggy width).

 

Tho I'd rather see you make the old J truck into a driver. :yes: comanche.gif

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If you wanted full width, the rear wouldn't be bad, but you can do lot better than the closed knuckle 44 ft,

plus it's passenger side drop, so it wouldn't work with any stock MJ transfercase.

 

 

That 60 rear uses two different length axle shafts,

if you got another one of the short sides, you could cut the housing down, and end up with a 60-ish wide 35 spline 5 on 5.5" D60 rear, using all factory Jeep parts. :chillin:

 

Like I said tho, the biggest downfall to this axle is the unique, hard to find, expensive axle bearings.

 

If you cut it down to 60" wide, it would be a good match to a 1980-91 Waggy ft end, converted to 5 on 5.5" (or a Ford HP 44 cut down to Waggy width).

 

Tho I'd rather see you make the old J truck into a driver. :yes: comanche.gif

naaaa i would try to turn it into a dd

i was just curious about the axles

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I think your right on everything except the motor, I believe that is the 350 Buick dauntless, 360 didnt have a V8 badge on them. Drop a newer HEI distributor in it and go.

 

And I would not gut that truck for the axles, put it back on the road, you would not be sorry.

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In March, 1971 I purchased a brand spankin new 1970 J10 from the Jeep dealer in Raton, New Mexico.I paid $3200 for it. It was listed for $4500 but he wanted it out of there. It had 96 miles on the clock, Forest green, 350 Buick, T18 4WD, 7.00 16 tires, and a AM radio. 5 days after I got it there was a dent in the left front fender where I lost traction and slid sideways down a mountain into a tree.1970 was the first year for the horizontal grill and the last year for the 350 Buick. I loved that truck. 14 mile to the gallon and did an honest 100MPH. Just reminiscing. Jim

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I think your right on everything except the motor, I believe that is the 350 Buick dauntless, 360 didnt have a V8 badge on them. Drop a newer HEI distributor in it and go.

 

And I would not gut that truck for the axles, put it back on the road, you would not be sorry.

 

In the pic it looks to me like it says '360', though I certainly could be misreading '350' instead.

 

Tho that would mean it was a 1970, or older, and the 73+ bed was swapped on.

 

 

They used both a 'V8', and a '360V8' Badge in 1973:

(see where it points to the badge, and says 'V8', and then '360-V8' underneath that)

 

'Somewhere' here I have all 4 (brandy new :brows: ) badges of the set:

the white "360V8", and the white "JEEP" badge that slots right next to it.

(this thread is making me want to dig that stuff out :yes: I realy need another J-truck)

 

The buddy I bought the J4000 from worked at the Jeep dealership (parts department), and threw the emblems into the deal. :cheers:

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In March, 1971 I purchased a brand spankin new 1970 J10 from the Jeep dealer in Raton, New Mexico.I paid $3200 for it. It was listed for $4500 but he wanted it out of there. It had 96 miles on the clock, Forest green, 350 Buick, T18 4WD, 7.00 16 tires, and a AM radio. 5 days after I got it there was a dent in the left front fender where I lost traction and slid sideways down a mountain into a tree.1970 was the first year for the horizontal grill and the last year for the 350 Buick. I loved that truck. 14 mile to the gallon and did an honest 100MPH. Just reminiscing. Jim

 

jamminz.gif :cheers:

 

Reminisce away Jim. :yes:

 

Most of us will never know what it's like to drive a brand new 1970 J-truck off the lot, so image_209027.gif to your story. :popcorn:

 

 

 

 

I scanned the 1973 pickup factory brochure, tho most of the pic's scanned horribly.

 

Chrysler obviously went back in time, and added some super secret anti-scanning imagery to the photos in their old brochures to protect them from copyright thieves once computer technology progressed to the point it is today. :smart:

 

 

edit:

rescanned the last pic @100% for clarity

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