Regger Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 Well, its been 3.5yrs since the MJ was taken off the road. (The most noticeable pic of my truck) The axles were ripped out and thrown under the Girlfriends S-15 Jimmy for a very Nice SAS swap. But ever since, the MJ has been sitting... with Me being too lazy to do anything with it. It also doesnt help that I have 3 vehicles to maintain (2 are DD's, and one is a dedicated trail rig) and 2 ATV's as well. Plus I just bought a house... So the time on the MJ has been next to none.. Until Now... Since my excess spending money has been reduced to nothing, ( this is where that house part comes in ) the time that I used to spend my excess amounts of money, are now being diverted to spending on the MJ. A Little history on my project... I was coming to a point in my wheeling, where the current setup was not working... in that it wasn't getting me to where I wanted to go. So I had a couple choices, either spend more money in making my current setup better, (basically dumping huge money into boat anchors) or ripping that setup out and creating a new setup from scratch. I chose the later as I ripped out the axles already... So the plans are... -Use Grand Wagoneer D44's -5.89 gears w/Spool rear, Power-loc front -Disc brakes all around -Custom front long arm suspension with a goal of about 8-10" lift and no axle brackets hanging below the front axle tubes -Full Hi-steer and cross-over steering with Hydro-assist -36" TSL -Dual t/case's Thats the main idea in a nut-shell plus some small misc. ideas as well So where am I currently at.... The truck is up on blocks with the rear axle only bolted (not welded) as SOA, and carboard templates of the frame brackets. Thats about it.. probably not even a full days work... its sad, I know.... But that is going to change... I guess I was somewhat smart in my excess spending days in that I bought the majority of the parts needed for my project back then. So now that I have the time to spend, stuff will get done... Just this last week, I started on the dis-assembly of a 2nd t/case to be used as my crawler box for the dual t/case setup. I'm basically using the front reduction box of the t/case to go between the ax-15 and the rear np231. This will take my crawl ratio from 61:1 to 164.5:1. This is being installed first, along with my SYE, so that I have an idea of what angle to set my front and rear pinions at. And once I get the t/cases done.. the next on the list is to have a bunch of my club members over, and we're going to go to town on all the front frame and axle brackets. Hopefully I can get all the brackets designed, cut, and tacked on the axle in that one day. That is the biggest hurdle of this project... cause after that its all the small stuff... that takes the most time... ie:, cutting and turning the knuckles, installing gears and lockers, converting to rear discs, re-doing the front discs, etc.... SO there is my run-down. I'm hoping to have this project done by early next year so that I have some time to make a few local runs, make any changes, then load it up and head down to Moab with the Club for Easter Jeep weekend. Thanks, Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hot Rod Jeep Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 Sounds like a good plan. Gonna bob the bed too? 8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 I'm interested in how your doubler works out... I finially gave up on the stock jeep stuff. My next drivetran seems likely to be a NP435 or SM465 or SM420 and a NP203/205 combo. And then put a 4:1 in the 205... Might as well just spend money... The good news is that other than the adapters/gears, it's cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regger Posted September 25, 2006 Author Share Posted September 25, 2006 Yeah, I'm gonna bob the bed... but at this moment, I just want to get the thing running!!!... I'm not even thinking about getting bumpers and sliders on it untill it gets moving under it own power... So most of that will have to wait... So far the whole doubler kit will have cost me $500 for the intermediate shaft and clocking plates, and a used np231 for the crawler box... Not too bad considering anything else might be cheaper, but would require a lot more time to make work... I'll let you know how the doubler works when it gets moving early next year... Thanks, Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regger Posted February 17, 2007 Author Share Posted February 17, 2007 Well, I guess its time to post an update... The dual t/cases and SYE kits have been assembled.. And partially installed... problem is, there isn't enough room for them to fit..(see how the new shiny brackets don't line up).. So I'm going to have to cut the floor pan some to fit.. Which also requires the moving on the inner rear seat bracket bolt.. Now If I wasnt going to buckets, this wouldn't be problem with the bench.. but since I want buckets.. I need to relocate the bolt.. I've also aquired the rear D44 disc brake caliper brackets, as well as a Detroit for the front.. While the t/cases are out, I'm also designing up a maunal t/case yoke park brake as well, to be used with an XJ hand brake in the center console... Just need to draw up the yoke profile so I can get the disc rotor fabb'd up.. Then once thats installed, I can correct my pinion angles and start making the brackets and coil buckets to fit the front axle.. Then the major control arm fabbing comes into play.. Thats it for now... Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regger Posted February 20, 2007 Author Share Posted February 20, 2007 Well, I actually got some work done on it this weekend!!!... I felt bad, and said sorry to the old girl, but I had to cut her belly open to fit her new drivetrain!!! I couldn't believe how nice the paint was under the carpet... Now I know what the outside was supposed to look like 19yrs ago.. yeah there were a few rust spots by the seat bolts, but it was in pretty darn good condition.. and really didnt want to cut her up... Now the 2nd t/case fits a bit better... Unfortunately, I won't get much more progress on her for about a month now,... I have a couple Club AGM's to attend on the weekends, and then I have to drive my Cousins TJ, 10hrs to Calgary Alberta on Friday, visit family in Lethbridge 2hrs south on saturday, and then fly back home on Sunday.. So the old girl will have to sit for a little while longer.. Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88swampedmj Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 looks good man, that dual t/case idea is lookin really nice i think i may try that.. where did you get the pieces to mate the two together? are you using a ba10/5 tranny? and would you need 2 t/case shifters? or just the stock one in stock location? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudzilla Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 and would you need 2 t/case shifters? or just the stock one in stock location? You end up needing 2 shifters; the stock one can work the front T-case though. For what its worth Ryan, on mine (with an NP241OR as the rear case, np321 as front), we found that the easiest way to shift the rear t-case was to have a lever that pulls vertically up and down, rather than one that slides forward and back (both for ease of fabrication and maintaining interior room). It works well with XJ buckets. ;) Sadly, we have finally buttoned up my giant transfer case skid for what should be the last time, and neglected to take some pictures of the linkage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regger Posted February 21, 2007 Author Share Posted February 21, 2007 88swampedMJ... I bought the kit from a vendor on Pirate4x4,... I think it was $350 including shipping. He's right across from Seattle. It was call "Box4Rocks".. Now its the same idea as the Company "Madrooster" makes down in California. So I guess which ever is closer. Mudzilla... Vertical shifter eh???.. Never really thought of that, but it just might work.. My plan was to use the Novak Adaptors reaplcement shifter (http://www.novak-adapt.com) idea and make it work for two shifters coming through the stock shifter hole... I really like keeping stuff as stock looking as possible, so it really hurt me to have to cut my floor, but the carpet and seat should cover it up... Thanks for the idea, Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 The box4rocks is cheaper and better made than the madrooster unit... If anyone cares. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regger Posted June 12, 2007 Author Share Posted June 12, 2007 Well some more progress was made this weekend... Finally!!!!.. I filled in the hole I made to fit the 2nd t/case. Its only tacked in right now, and hopefully I'll get to fully weld, sand, prime and paint next weekend. I also finished up the brackets for the bucket seats. (Sorry No pics right now) They do sit a little tall, but I'll se if thats a problem.. I might end up lowering them later on. The only bracket left is the drivers side, inner rear. I had to cut the bolt out to fit the t/case, and cut off that protion of the seat bracket. So I'll have to make a new bracket and put in a new bolt. Then I can get back to making the bracket for the front axle and long arm kit Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 NIce... I guess I wil have to revive my build thread and post the progress on my doubler setup. I like the way you are trying to keep the stock look... If you look around on Pirate I am sure you can find a nice cable set-up to use. I thought about going the way you went using the "stock"cases, but mine went a different route, and a lot heavier one at that :eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regger Posted June 13, 2007 Author Share Posted June 13, 2007 Pingpong, I looked on Pirate a few months ago and couldn't find anything about a cable shifter... So someone suggested doing a vertical shifter for the 1st case. It only needs to go up and down one notch, and would take up very little room. That would then leave me to use the stock shifter for the rear case... What cases did you go with??.. D300?? I was thinking of going that route, with a flipped D300... but it just isnt in the budget at the time. I'll see how this does, and if it breaks, then I'll have to go bigger... Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 I went with the np203 and d300, using Jeds Machining doubler kit. I chose his over the others cause he was just a nice guy to deal with and price was the same across the board. It also came unwelded so I can clock the setup how I want it. I also went with this setup so I can do front digs :D I would use the stock setup for the first case, and use a custom cable setup for the second using a transmision shifter cable, with a modified automatic shifter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 What cases did you go with??.. D300?? I was thinking of going that route, with a flipped D300... but it just isnt in the budget at the time. I'll see how this does, and if it breaks, then I'll have to go bigger... Ryan Don't quote me, but Jeep Thrills sells use-able D300s for $75 bucks. A freind bought one not that long ago. Yeah, with a D300 that's just the first payment though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regger Posted June 14, 2007 Author Share Posted June 14, 2007 Geez.. 203/300 is a heavy setup.. but its equally as strong... If you got, run it... I only had 231's so thats what I used.. if they break, I go bigger... Yeah I was thinking of the cable shift system, but I figure a simple lift/push lever going up and down is the simplest.. Plus it would take up very little room, and I wouldn't have to worry about cables and brackets and alignment, etc.. But who knows, that idea may not work , and I'm either back to a cable setup, or maybe using a YJ setup... Well, I havent dealt with Craig at JT for along while, pretty much since the whole stolen vehicles thing... BUt yes, the D300, is just the first cost.. I would still have to flip it (cause I have all Drivers side front axles, and don't want to switch now) and then double or even triple stick it... This project is taking long enough, and that would open up whole other can of worms!!! I just want this thing back on the road... My last major expense will be the joints for the control arms.. and then the steel for the arms themselves... and then of course, all the little things like brakes, bearings, seals, that start out cheap but end up costing the most after all said and done!! Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted June 15, 2007 Share Posted June 15, 2007 I am doing links front and rear, and the way I wheell I need beef so I can feel your pain. Since I went with the biggest joints out there at the time 2.63's with 1.25x14tpi shanks it means the smalles DOM I can use is 2.25x.375.... can you say my links will cost me over 400 just in steel :eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regger Posted June 16, 2007 Author Share Posted June 16, 2007 Ouch... Thats a steep bill... But then again, your buying expensive steel to begin with.. You could always go with HREW instead and save money. And it that size, would be plenty strong... I think I've finally decided on the Large RE Flexx Joints at about $40 ea, but I'm still undecided if I want to go with round are sqaure tubing... Then its a matter of making the alxe and frame brackets... Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted June 18, 2007 Share Posted June 18, 2007 HREW is not an option... not for suspension links.. at least in my opinion. Check on PBB there are a lot of quality mounts and tabs out there for the cheap... almost cheaper then if you want to make them yourself...By the time you figure your time, and consumeables.. its cheaper to buy them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 18, 2007 Share Posted June 18, 2007 It can be a b*@$£ to get them when you're on this side of the boarder. They either take forever, or there's a big shipping/brokerage fee, or they get lost... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted June 19, 2007 Share Posted June 19, 2007 I forgot that you are on the other side.. what ever happened to NAFTA? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regger Posted June 20, 2007 Author Share Posted June 20, 2007 Pinpong, when you get up to .375 wall.. You will not be bending that easily no matter how you drive.... But if you want it, and can get it, do it... As for brackets... What I want to do is not something that can be off the shelf.. I'm raising all my brackets and mounts about 1-2" (havent figured out the exact measument yet) and so its not something that is common. Most people would just buy the RE kit, and weld everything on, and call it done... Not me, I like to make life difficult for myself as much as I can... As for getting stuff across our great border... NAFTA only allows us to get american made products through the border without paying duty on them.. But we still have to pay our taxes both provincial and federal, plus depending on how they are shipped a brokerage fee... And of course, the border takes their sweet @$$ time accessing the products coming through making sure they are terrorist funded or of that nature before getting through.. it basically all adds up to more money spent and time wasted then required... Thats why I just ship everything to an adress just across the line, and head down and pick it up myself. Sometimes I pay taxes, sometimes I don't, depending on the mood of the border gaurd, but at least I get them in a very timely fashion and way cheaper than shipping them directly to my house... HTH Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted June 20, 2007 Share Posted June 20, 2007 I have had some luck getting bracket and tabs custom made over the net, by different companies, but the lead time is ussually a big hassle, and I fully understand what you are talking about. As for the tubing.. I am going to go with the DOM.. I know it is probrably overkill, but I would hate to half to make them twice.. I am all ready on my 4th build on Pong since I got it... I knew I should have went 1 tons when I did the build last yr :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regger Posted July 23, 2007 Author Share Posted July 23, 2007 Well, Some more progress was made.. Finished the welding and painting of the new tranny hump; Put the carpet back on, and it fit pretty good. Almost looks stock And finally bolted the new seat brackets and bucket seats back in.. Its actually coming together nicely, although slow, its still making progress.. The rest of the pictures can be found here http://hot4x4.ca/gallery2/v/RyanEgger/albun80/album541/ The seats sit way to high for me, but its something I can get used to. I Just have to fix the sagging headliner. The girlfriend likes it cause she can see over the hood, where before the bench had sagged so much, she looked like an old lady driving it with her head just pearing through the steering wheel. I can't put the complete interior back together just yet, As I still have to figure out where to put my crawler box shifter. My idea right now is to use the stock shifter by getting rid of the pivot mechanism and run a rod directly back to the rear case. This should give me the clearance I need for the CV driveshaft. And then use the pivot mechanism housing, with the crawler box shifter though it and out the side of the tranny tunnel. Then contour the shifter so it comes up just beside the stock shifter. Right about where my bicycle shifter/throttle control is in the second and thrid pictures. But that will only come after I figure out the new crossmembers and locations and only after I finish the control arm frame brackets. So back to the shop I go to finish of the frame brackets. Should probably have a few more updates in a couple months or so :roll: Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 Novak makes a shifter that connects right to the t-case, but it is for the stock location. You always could do a cable shifter and mount the second shifter somewhere cool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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