Anyone use a DRB-II scanner? I need a bit of help.

[Shandley]

Greetings,

 

I was able to borrow a DRB-II scanner with a super cartridge.

 

I hooked it up to my truck and the thing turns on fine. I set it up to read an XJ 2.5L (it doesn't have an MJ option), Manual transmission, without AC, with Power steering.

I go to tests, engine, and it tells me to turn the key off. Then it reads Testing...

Then I get a DTC error of DTC A 1038.

 

Any idea what that is? It won't let me do anything else... well, that or I just don't know what to do. I do not have a manual with me.

 

Any help?

[Oizarod115]

the key MUST be on when attempting to scan a vehicle... don't listen to the scanner, try it with the key on.

[Shandley]

AH yes. With the key on, I got not DTCs. With it running, it came up with a 1018.

It's stated on the DRB-II code reader as DTC *arrow pointing up* 1018. Any idea what that is?

[Shandley]

I took pictures of all of the readings with the key off, the key on, and the engine running.

Here it is. Maybe someone can make sense of it.

 

Key off:

Map: 3.0 Hg

TPS: 0% PARTIAL

O2: .0V OPEN LOOP

INJ WIDTH: .0ms

BARO: 3.0Hg

COOLANT: -40F

AIR TEMP -40F

BATT: 12.7V

RPM: 0 [ ]

ALFACL: 0

ADGAIN: 0

ADVANCE: 0

VACUUM: .0 Hg

 

KEY ON:

Map: 29.3 Hg

TPS: 0% CLOSED

O2: .0V OPEN LOOP

INJ WIDTH: .0ms

BARO: 3.0Hg

COOLANT: 48F

AIR TEMP -40F

BATT: 12.5V

RPM: 0 [ ]

ALFACL: 128

ADGAIN: 128

ADVANCE: 0

VACUUM: .8 Hg

 

ENGINE RUNNING:

 

*a beep and a red light flashing* DCT 1018

Map: 19.3 Hg

TPS: 0% CLOSED

O2: .0V OPEN LOOP

INJ WIDTH: 4.7ms

BARO: 27.8 Hg

COOLANT: 63F

AIR TEMP -40F

BATT: 14.8V

RPM: 1118 [* ] (the * is actually a solid black square block)

ALFACL: 128

ADGAIN: 128

ADVANCE: 23

VACUUM: 10.0 Hg

 

Please keep in mind that the engine was cold to start and I took the pictures as it was warming up. After a bit, the idle went down to just over 800 (but it was rough running). I don't know if my O2 sensor is toast but I tired bench tests with it and didn't get any readings. I have a new one on route.

 

Also, there is a TPS monitor. When I didn't touch the throttle, it was at 0%. I pulled the throttle open slowly and watched the percentage rise. Just past half way, it was at 6% and if I was very careful, I could get it to 7%. Past that position, it would drop to 0%. Going backwards was the same as forwards, only in reverse (go figure).

 

Do you know what ALFACL or ADGAIN is?

 

I only have this reader for today so if anyone has any knowledge of these readers that can tell me what to do or has the manual that can tell me what a 1018 is, I would very much appreciate it.

[Blue XJ]

A 1018 code should mean no serial data on the serial data circuit. No clue what that means though.

 

edit:

 

here is all of them

 

http://www.troublecodes.net/chrysler/jeep.shtml

[Blue XJ]

I took pictures of all of the readings with the key off, the key on, and the engine running.

Here it is. Maybe someone can make sense of it.

 

ENGINE RUNNING:

 

*a beep and a red light flashing* DCT 1018

Map: 19.3 Hg

TPS: 0% CLOSED

O2: .0V OPEN LOOP

INJ WIDTH: 4.7ms

BARO: 27.8 Hg

COOLANT: 63F

AIR TEMP -40F

BATT: 14.8V

RPM: 1118 [* ] (the * is actually a solid black square block)

ALFACL: 128

ADGAIN: 128

ADVANCE: 23

VACUUM: 10.0 Hg

 

Also, there is a TPS monitor. When I didn't touch the throttle, it was at 0%. I pulled the throttle open slowly and watched the percentage rise. Just past half way, it was at 6% and if I was very careful, I could get it to 7%. Past that position, it would drop to 0%. Going backwards was the same as forwards, only in reverse (go figure).

 

Based on the display, the air temp shouldn't be reading -40F. I would check the connector on that sensor, it should be reading close to ambient temp when first started and it will warm up as the engine warms up.

 

If the TPS only reads up to 7%, I would say its bad. It should be close to 0 at closed throttle and greater than ~75% when at wide open, with a smooth transition throughout the range.

[Shandley]

Thank you for the link the info! That will help.

 

Say, where is the air temp sensor?

[Blue XJ]

Air temp sensor should be in your intake manifold. Mine is rearward of the throttle body and has 2 black wires coming out of it. Mines a 4.0 manifold though.

[Shandley]

Air temp sensor should be in your intake manifold. Mine is rearward of the throttle body and has 2 black wires coming out of it. Mines a 4.0 manifold though.

 

Hmmm.. I see there is a manifold air temp sensor and an ambient air temp sensor. Do you think it might be referring to the ambient air temp sensor?

 

I found a pic of one but I cannot find this on my vehicle either.

[aemsee]

no ambient air temp sensor like that on yours. just the MAT (manifold air temp) sensor. Minus 40 is a default if it is open circuit. Should be on the top of the intake manifold. But your tps going back to zero as you open it is definitly a problem

 

sensor on my 87 2.5

 

[Shandley]

Thanks,

In about an hour I will be going down to my truck again and testing that one. Anyone have a spare one lying around? lol.

[Shandley]

It SEEMS to check out. Thanks!

[Blue XJ]

the best way to check it is using the FSM and an ohm meter. There are charts for the Renix sensors that show their resistance output based on what they are measuring, its really the easiest way to check to see if the sensors are functioning properly.

[Shandley]

Pardon my noob-ness, but what's an FSM?

[aemsee]

FSM= factory service manual.

 

If you want I can measure mine tomorrow and let you know what it is. Do you have a DVOM?

[Shandley]

It all depends on what you mean by DVOM. If you mean a digital multimeter, then yes. If you mean one that will measure voltage and resistance at the same time, nope. Of course, when checking the resistance, the power should be off anyways. lol

 

It would be really helpful if you could get a reading or two for me tomorrow. Much Thanks!

[aemsee]

with the sensor unplugged and measuring across the terminals: 10k ohms (it's about 30 degrees here). Unplugged and key on the voltage at the harness connector is 2.45 volts. With it plugged in key on and back probing the voltage wire, 1.9 volts. Make sure you check the connector for a spread pin when you do your volt/ ohm check. If everything there checks out OK then you need to check it at the diag connector (volts, plugged in and key on) to see if maybe just the scan tool isn't getting the right info. Then check it at the ECU for the same voltage as at the sensor.