case5412 Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 I'm looking at an older International Scout maybe year 69; It has front and rear Dana 60s. My Dad's got a 78 International Scout with I believe has Dana 44 front and rear. :D :D :D I need to know how compatable or "friendly" would these be for a swap for my Comanche? :dunno: :dunno: :dunno: Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 depends on what those 60s originally came from. If the front axle is a passenger side diff, then that makes life more difficult. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
case5412 Posted November 23, 2009 Author Share Posted November 23, 2009 Do you think they came stock in that year? http://littlerock.craigslist.org/pts/1472395185.html Here's the craigslist link. Its funny because it's not the only Scout on craigslist claiming to have D60s front and rear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 dunno. That guy advertises a "ford drop". My gut is telling me that Scouts were pass side diff from the factory. can't say for sure though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
case5412 Posted November 23, 2009 Author Share Posted November 23, 2009 What does "ford drop" stand for? Would my Dad's 78 Scout diff be on the same side as the older one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 fords typically come with a drivers side differential on the front axle (meaning a drivers side "drop" on the t-case). Chevys, dodges, and older Jeeps frequently came with pass side diffs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 What's the track on a Scout? I think those axles are pretty narrow ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 Motor and trans swaps are common on Scouts. The IH motors don't stand being beat on but so much, they were worse then AMC motors about oiling. That being said that Scout would make a great Krawler, or base for one. The frames came fully boxed from the factory, had removable trans tunnel covers. From the looks of it the body is in good shape, which is the only real issue with IH products... they rust like 80 yota's. I would offer way less for the whole rig, and build a crawler. Find a chevy1/2 or 3/4 ton, use a np241 or np208 t-case, and put a cage in it. Dove tail front and rear, shackle reversal upfront... cut to clear some 40 KM2's and wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
case5412 Posted November 24, 2009 Author Share Posted November 24, 2009 :cheers: Yeah I love Scouts. I learned how to drive in an old 3 speed Scout, the family still has it. But I'm a Comanche fan now. I would like to use parts from a Scout, but only if they are friendly. I was just curious what the Axles were like on those Scouts, for swaps in my Comanche. I've made up my mind on my Axle choice. I want D60 front and rear, idk what donor or where to get it. I'm going to be patient and wait for a good deal. I might would use the D44 front and rear from a Scout if I found a good deal, but I'm shooting for D60s. My Wife leaves Saturday morning at 0600. :'( :( :'( :( So I'll be starting my build thread Sunday. Thanks all for the support. please feel free to leave some advice for my build. thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 Whatever axle you choose, you'll want a drivers side diff. If I remember right, scout front 44 axles are set up for 0 caster angle. Not necessarily the best choice for street driven Jeeps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireFighter32 Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 I know that Scout IIs are all passenger side drop from the factory. They also came from the factory stock with 44s front and rear. My buddy put a Scout rear 44 in his Comanche. You need to use a wheel spacer, to make it Comanche width and to make it 5 on 4.5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
case5412 Posted November 24, 2009 Author Share Posted November 24, 2009 Whatever axle you choose, you'll want a drivers side diff. If I remember right, scout front 44 axles are set up for 0 caster angle. Not necessarily the best choice for street driven Jeeps. What does "0 caster angle" stand for? I'm sorry but I'm just learning all this stuff, so you'll have to explain things to me when you post, lol. Like when you showed me that picture of the two Axles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 in basic terms, caster is how much your axle leans back. The right amount helps the tires stay going straight down the road. too much and it takes a lot more force to turn the tires. too little and the tires will tend to wander left and right. I believe factory for us is 5 or 6 degrees. Try to stick with the 3/4 to 1 ton 8-lug Ford axles (avoid the IFS models). They have the most correct things on them of all the axles out there (when upgrading a comanche at least). Nothing wrong with doing the ford Dana 44 up front now (with a 60 rear) and then upgrading to a 60 front later on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
case5412 Posted November 24, 2009 Author Share Posted November 24, 2009 in basic terms, caster is how much your axle leans back. The right amount helps the tires stay going straight down the road. too much and it takes a lot more force to turn the tires. too little and the tires will tend to wander left and right. I believe factory for us is 5 or 6 degrees. Try to stick with the 3/4 to 1 ton 8-lug Ford axles (avoid the IFS models). They have the most correct things on them of all the axles out there (when upgrading a comanche at least). Nothing wrong with doing the ford Dana 44 up front now (with a 60 rear) and then upgrading to a 60 front later on. :yes: Thanks, I would probably do that. It seems the cheaper way to go, and more praticle. I will wait for the D60 front untill I get a donor diesel engine, unless I get a good deal sooner than later. Thanks again to all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
case5412 Posted November 25, 2009 Author Share Posted November 25, 2009 I've found a local guy parting out a 78 F250, I want to say I need the Axles the drive shafts and the transfer case. Right? anything else I'll need? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 you really only need the axles. I would try to get the steering and brakes with them. the t-case will depend entirely on what drivetrain you're going for. The driveshafts will not work without major mods so I'm not sure what good they'll do ya. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
case5412 Posted November 25, 2009 Author Share Posted November 25, 2009 you really only need the axles. I would try to get the steering and brakes with them. the t-case will depend entirely on what drivetrain you're going for. The driveshafts will not work without major mods so I'm not sure what good they'll do ya. so in the "drivetrain", means pretty much anything past the fly wheel? So that means the axles are encluded. I really would want to base my drivetrain on the D60s I'm getting, to with stand high tourqe. Soooooooo, what do you exactly mean, what drivetrain I go with? because I know what I'm shooting for, proformance wise, but I don't know exactly where to get the parts, and I don't know why I can't just use all the parts from the F250? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 what engine and trans are you going with? without that info, you won't know what t-case to get. The axles will work fine with everything from a stock 4banger to a v8. bulletproof is bulletproof. I.E. you don't need a tough t-case because of your axles, you need a tough t-case because of your engine. I hope you're not contemplating using the engine from that 78. Chances are good that it's a 351 or 400 and neither engine would make a good swap candidate. :ack: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 Must agree with Pete on Motor choice. At the same time if the trans is a NP435 you can bolt that too the 2.5 with a kit from AA. Heck even if it is the T18 with a moddified CJ bell housing you can bolt it to the ti5 as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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