Eagle Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 SO after/ while driving today I realized that my temp gauge doesnt go above 155 (middle line between 100 and 210). The scale on the temp gauge is not linear, so that position on the dial is not 155 degrees. My '88 Cherokee has been running there for at least six or eight years. Faulty gauge. Plenty of heat (until the heater core started peeing under the carpet and I had to bypass it). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 so driving with the pad cap ff won't do much Oh, yes ... it'll do quite a bit. It will very effectively coat the entire engine in hot coolant. There is a way to burp it via the pressure bottle, but you don't drive it. You fill the system as well as you can and get the bottle about half full. Leave the cap off (or very loose) and start the engine. Let it idle until the coolant boils and you see/hear bubbles in the surge bottle. Shut off the engine and wait. After 2 to 5 minutes as the system starts to cool down, all of a sudden you'll see the coolant in the bottle getting sucked back out the bottom, into the block. Pour in more coolant. Don't fill the bottle, but don't let it get sucked dry or you have to start over. Once it stops sucking, refill to half, start the engine, and repeat. It usually takes between four and six cycles of this to purge the air out of the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunl Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 so driving with the pad cap ff won't do much Oh, yes ... it'll do quite a bit. It will very effectively coat the entire engine in hot coolant. There is a way to burp it via the pressure bottle, but you don't drive it. You fill the system as well as you can and get the bottle about half full. Leave the cap off (or very loose) and start the engine. Let it idle until the coolant boils and you see/hear bubbles in the surge bottle. Shut off the engine and wait. After 2 to 5 minutes as the system starts to cool down, all of a sudden you'll see the coolant in the bottle getting sucked back out the bottom, into the block. Pour in more coolant. Don't fill the bottle, but don't let it get sucked dry or you have to start over. Once it stops sucking, refill to half, start the engine, and repeat. It usually takes between four and six cycles of this to purge the air out of the system. Sort of like bleeding the air out of a power steering system. Good explanation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deziped Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 This last method is the way I have always done it also. But I drive it around a couple blocks, 1/2 mile, as it heats up quicker (cuts down on the stand around time) and when I see the quage start to climb I pull it into the driveway and let it run until I see the guage hit about 185-190 and then shut it off & let it do its thing. Add more and repeat if necessary until it stays level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted December 19, 2009 Share Posted December 19, 2009 Lol. I hate bleeding the system but it feels like the sun is inside when heat is going. And it sits at 210 Amazing what happens when you listen to the guy thats been telling you to bleed it the whole time... :roll: Rob L. 8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeman17 Posted December 19, 2009 Author Share Posted December 19, 2009 I pulled off cardboard and it doesnt over heat sit at 210 and i have heat when needed. I did something right finally with all you help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted December 19, 2009 Share Posted December 19, 2009 If this thread and the 100's of others like it doesn't convince you to convert from the antiquated Renix closed system (even the Jeep engineers admit the "closed" system was the worst mistake Jeep ever made) to the 91 and up conventional recovery system, you got to be dense or a masochist. What a PITA! Here's a good article to read: http://www.olypen.com/craigh/cooling.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeman17 Posted December 19, 2009 Author Share Posted December 19, 2009 awesome link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted December 19, 2009 Share Posted December 19, 2009 If this thread and the 100's of others like it doesn't convince you to convert from the antiquated Renix closed system (even the Jeep engineers admit the "closed" system was the worst mistake Jeep ever made) to the 91 and up conventional recovery system, you got to be dense or a masochist. Whoa! The "open" system is the antiquated system. That's been around since they added radiators and water as a cooling system for internal combustion engines. When and where did Jeep engineers admit that the closed system was the worst mistake Jeep ever made? If it was such a horrible mistake, why did they go back and make it again on the Liberty, and why does it work on the Liberty? Why does it work on so many other cars and light trucks, from the other manufacturers? The real problem with the Renix closed system isn't the system, it's the funky plastic bottle with a plastic pressure cap. When new it works fine. Eventually, the cap can't seal to the bottle, the system won't hold pressure, and thet's where the fun starts. I converted my '88 XJ to a Moroso aluminum surge tank in 1999 or 2000, and I haven't had any problems with it at all since then (other than winter salt taking out the radiator -- which is an unrelated issue). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche09 Posted December 19, 2009 Share Posted December 19, 2009 The "open" system is the antiquated system. That's been around since they added radiators and water as a cooling system for internal combustion engines. When and where did Jeep engineers admit that the closed system was the worst mistake Jeep ever made? If it was such a horrible mistake, why did they go back and make it again on the Liberty, and why does it work on the Liberty? Why does it work on so many other cars and light trucks, from the other manufacturers? My 2008 Liberty has the "open" cooling system. Chrysler probably went back to "open" style because it costs less. IMO, with heat cycled pressurized plastic, its a matter of WHEN it will fail not IF. And on the Renix Jeeps, its a particularly poor design (plastic cap too). Now if the tank was made of aluminium or stainless steel $$$... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted December 20, 2009 Share Posted December 20, 2009 Whoa! The "open" system is the antiquated system. That's been around since they added radiators and water as a cooling system for internal combustion engines. When and where did Jeep engineers admit that the closed system was the worst mistake Jeep ever made? If it was such a horrible mistake, why did they go back and make it again on the Liberty, and why does it work on the Liberty? Why does it work on so many other cars and light trucks, from the other manufacturers? The real problem with the Renix closed system isn't the system, it's the funky plastic bottle with a plastic pressure cap. When new it works fine. Eventually, the cap can't seal to the bottle, the system won't hold pressure, and thet's where the fun starts. I converted my '88 XJ to a Moroso aluminum surge tank in 1999 or 2000, and I haven't had any problems with it at all since then (other than winter salt taking out the radiator -- which is an unrelated issue). Whoa! For a little more than the price you paid for the alum tank you could have converted to the much more reliable open system that is used by more manufacturers by far than a closed system. The Libby was created when Mopar was looking to save $$; not having a real metal pressure cap on the rad, thus the return to the closed system w. a more reliable bottle cap. :nuts: Who else still has a closed system? And it's still a major PITA to bleed, and any leak in a closed system introduces more air unlike the conventional recovery open system. You don't have to park on a hill, remove the block temp sensor, or any of the other procedures the closed system requires to get the air out. Also an open recovery system gives more time for someone (like my wife) who never looks at any of the gauges to notice a problem before a boilover. No contest, the advantages of an open system far outweigh the closed system. I never have any air problems when opening up the cooling system to change fluids or whatever. But to each his own........I'm keeping what I got. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted December 20, 2009 Share Posted December 20, 2009 Easy you two... I don't want to have to report you to the.... mods? :teehee: Rob L. :peek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted December 20, 2009 Share Posted December 20, 2009 Easy you two... I don't want to have to report you to the.... mods? :teehee: Rob L. :peek: Just a friendly discussion Rob-man. The Eagle-man likes things his way, I like things my way, and you like things your way. That's why these trucks are so cool; there is so much versatility in them you can build them anyway you like. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeman17 Posted January 3, 2010 Author Share Posted January 3, 2010 I bled the system again as told and it was coolant right away so I tried Eagles way nothing still but still no heat. I let it sit and run for probably 45mins at Robs house yesterday and it was sitting at 210 but as i started driving right away in was at the next line from 100 and no heat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 I bled the system again as told and it was coolant right away so I tried Eagles way nothing still but still no heat. I let it sit and run for probably 45mins at Robs house yesterday and it was sitting at 210 but as i started driving right away in was at the next line from 100 and no heat Sounds like the t-stat is stuck open. It gets heat with no airflow, and when you start moving, it can't regulate the coolant going to the radiator. Just keeps running in the loop. I should be over there next time you do it to double check. Rob L. :fs1: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeman17 Posted January 3, 2010 Author Share Posted January 3, 2010 you know u just wanna do it bc i don't Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeman17 Posted January 15, 2010 Author Share Posted January 15, 2010 You guy are gonna think I'm on crack or something but as I was leaving work my temp gauge droped very slow compared to usual. After driving for awhile it was sitting at the 2 line fro 100. I think it is just playig with my mind Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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