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brake bleeeding question


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I have a 92 metric ton mj that I replaced a section of rusted brake line to the rear. Now that I have bled all wheels I still do not have good pedal, almost all the way to the floor. I am wondering if the line that the arm to the rear end housing goes to can be causing my problem. Is there any possibily that this line got air into it and if so how do I get it out. I am really getting frustrated with this problem, it is not safe to drive right now. Any help will be greatly appreciated. thanks

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You didn't say which line you replaced. The one used all of the time or the one that is only used when the front brakes fail? There is a procedure to bled the entire system by forcing a failure in the front system so that the emergency line can be bled. If you are up to cutting some corners, try cracking one of the ends of the new line and allowing the fluid to drain some. This would be an attempt to back fill the new empty line. If it was the emergency line that you replaced and it sounds like it is and the previous didn't work, you could crack the emergency line open at the prop valve under the hood and have someone pump the brake while you open and close. However, by this time you might as well do it the right way.

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If it was the emergency line that you replaced and it sounds like it is and the previous didn't work, you could crack the emergency line open at the prop valve under the hood and have someone pump the brake while you open and close. However, by this time you might as well do it the right way.

What would this accomplish?

 

There is nothing flowing in that by-pass line unless the front brakes fail.

 

Here's the link. Scroll down about four posts to where I copied the FSM procedure.

http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4917

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If he replaced the emergency rear line, there is no fluid in it and there is no way to bled it. There is a possibility if he could fill the entire line with fluid, he would then be able to build pressure in the rear brakes. In order to fill the line, the air needs to be removed. Had Jeep put a bleeder where the emergency line leaves the prop valve, the job would be easier. Opening the fitting will let the air out. The fluid would fill the line from the rear forward after it has gone through the height sensing valve.

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I'm not at all convinced that your method would work. If it did, it would make a mess of the engine compartment and strip off paint anywhere you spilled brake fluid.

 

I'd just follow the FSM procedure.

 

(In the interest of full disclosure, I actually would NOT follow the FSM procedure. I would actually eliminate the height sensing valve and run a single line directly to the rear flex hose. IF I were to keep the height sensing valve, I would follow the FSM procedure.)

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