ncgamedog Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 I found an 8.8 disk to go in my 91' MJ...Are there any master cylinder mods I have to do to make it work right? or any other important mods I should know before I buy. Just need to calculate my total cost for the swap to be sure its a good deal. thanks -JUstin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 18, 2009 Share Posted September 18, 2009 depends. some Jeepers have swapped in the 8.8 and ran it as-is. Others have found there to be too much rear brakes and needed to add an adjustible proportioning valve. (summit racing has one I believe) the front valve in an MJ may look like a prop valve, but it's really just a splitter. Are you eliminating the rear prop valve or keeping it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncgamedog Posted September 18, 2009 Author Share Posted September 18, 2009 Not sure...should I? I would prefer to simplify it if I can w/o causing ill effects. The toyotas have a LSPV too and we usually just ditch them w/ no noticeable difference whatsoever. Just not sure how critical the jeep one is to proper braking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 18, 2009 Share Posted September 18, 2009 what condition are your brake lines? especially where they run past the gas tank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncgamedog Posted September 18, 2009 Author Share Posted September 18, 2009 havent actually checked specifically, but I would say good judging by the rest of the truck and overall underbelly cleanliness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbulliwagen Posted September 18, 2009 Share Posted September 18, 2009 I recently bypassed the rear load valve on an 88MJ and there was a noticeable difference under hard braking, the rear wheels would just about lock up on command. If your rear load valve is working alright, there is no reason not to stick with it until you can get an adjustable unit later on, if needed. To test it, you may want to unhook the rod, and tie the arm up in a much higher position, this will give you more braking to the rear wheels, to see what it will feel like for you. If you want to keep it with the 8.8 you could make an adjustable rod to adjust the rear brake proportion till you get it where you like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now