xflowdaboi352 Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 if i make new control arms longer than stock will they still hit the axle plate for the shock mount?? :help: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpnjim Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 Depends what you make them out of, and how high you're lifted/how much down travel you have. Either way, trim the plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xflowdaboi352 Posted June 6, 2009 Author Share Posted June 6, 2009 yeah thats antidisestablishmentarianism i was think just trim the plate and fab up some new bars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 if i make new control arms longer than stock will they still hit the axle plate for the shock mount?? :help: If you think about that for a moment, you will realize longer CA's will actually GAIN you clearance at this point, not reduce it. Think on this, it doesn't/didn't contact stock, right? If you imagine you had a way shorter arm (Say 8" long) and maintained the same caster, the shock mount would bisect the lower control arm, right? So conversely, keeping caster the same and lengthening that same arm, to say 30") you would have gobs of clearance. Attaining and maintaining proper caster as well as the amount of lift is the key. Remember, your wheel moves in an arch, not straight up and down as it appears. One caviot, lifts past 5" or so will be effected as your describing. BUT the factory short arm setup is also no longer effective at this point either. A long arm set up is required. Some manufactures produce CA's with a arch to allow for more clearance in this area. But its really not necessary. It just gives the customer what he/she thinks they need. If it makes you feel better, trim yous a bit, but be careful some strength and integrity of that mount will be lost doing so. CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xflowdaboi352 Posted June 6, 2009 Author Share Posted June 6, 2009 Thx i mite try to fab up a long arm kit or maybe sum drop brackets. I'm still think tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 Long arms or longer control arms? Long arm kits are a different animal. Just wanna make sure you get your terminology right. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xflowdaboi352 Posted June 6, 2009 Author Share Posted June 6, 2009 yeah i don't antidisestablishmentarianism would happen if i did longer arms woudnt it still hit the plate. But if i do sum drop brackets for the arms then they would be lower. See the problem i ran in to is i did a sway bar drop with 3in blocks and there not enough lift cause it push the sway bar in to the coil spring. but i was thinking about cutting the sway bar down and rewelding it but if i did A bigger lift then i mite need the full length sway bar so I'm going to wait untill i finish the lift the rest of the way it only has a 5in lift now but I'm going to use 2in spacers to help bring thsoe bars away from the springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 Longer arms would hit the plate. Some longer arms have a bend to them so the they don't hit the plate. http://www.rukindustries.com/store/imag ... edjeep.gif As for your sway bar... you'll need longer swaybar links. Don't cut up the bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xflowdaboi352 Posted June 6, 2009 Author Share Posted June 6, 2009 no its like to long cuz i did a sway bar drop and it puts the ends of the bar rite next to the spring and it hits them. Yeah the ones in the pic is how i was planing on making the new ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xflowdaboi352 Posted June 7, 2009 Author Share Posted June 7, 2009 ok i found out that i had to move the sway bar forward and weld the blocks on to the frame instead of trying to use the factory bolt holes. :yes: :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xflowdaboi352 Posted June 7, 2009 Author Share Posted June 7, 2009 get to fix the door tomorrow!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted June 7, 2009 Share Posted June 7, 2009 As for your sway bar... you'll need longer sway-bar links. Don't cut up the bar. I agree, proper length links are REQUIRED for the sway-bar to work properly!!! If the bar is too high or too low it will not properly do its job. Buy or make longer/adjustable end links!!! If you at 5" of lift, with factory CA's your axle is back too far in the wheel opening. Your bump-stop that's inside the coil is no longer centered. Not to mention if your still running a factory steering setup. All of these things are further hampering your problem. CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xflowdaboi352 Posted June 7, 2009 Author Share Posted June 7, 2009 yeah every thing pretty much factory i think but it only gota drive like 5 min to the woods by my house and any place else will be on a trailer. so its not like its a dd thats antidisestablishmentarianism my brothers is for. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted June 7, 2009 Share Posted June 7, 2009 WELL, If its offroad only.. DITCH THE SWAYBAR!!!!!! :D :yes: CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xflowdaboi352 Posted June 7, 2009 Author Share Posted June 7, 2009 well i drive it on the road sum but i shoudnt need longer sway bar links cuz i droped the hole bar down correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 7, 2009 Share Posted June 7, 2009 well i drive it on the road sum but i shoudnt need longer sway bar links cuz i droped the hole bar down correct? It'll be okay as long as the swaybar end links are mostly vertical, and the arms on the swaybar (where it is bent back to the hole for the end link to attach to) are mostly vertical. A swaybar is an incredibly low-tech device. If the bushings are all shot, you might replace them. It'll work more 'as intended'. Short answer, if you dropped the bar equal (or close to) lift height it'll be okay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xflowdaboi352 Posted June 7, 2009 Author Share Posted June 7, 2009 well thats antidisestablishmentarianism i did and there lined up staright so i should be goods. :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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