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Schneider 1990 Comanche 4.0 Long Bed Automatic Transmission


SchneiderFishing
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Nice looking MJ. :thumbsup:

 

If you plan on keeping the bench, which looks to be in real solid shape, just pull the covers off and put them in the wash. Let them hang to dry, no dryer. :no: They should come out pretty good. Oh in while you have it out, pull the carpet to check for rusty floorboards, then pressure wash the carpet while its out.

 

:cheers:

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Very nice. Looks about like mine, less a hole in the side of the bed due to rust.

 

Do all the Colorado Red MJ's have shiny paint on them? My paint, the factory stuff according to the body shop guy, still is shiny and clean... even though the bed has rusted holes through it :fs1:

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I don't think it is factory paint. And I would bet it was repainted in Mexico. Last owner spent time on both sides of the Texas border. Originally came from North Dakota.

 

Lots of plans and the l keeps getting longer instead of shorter

Fix the P - Done

Ca smog ($$$$) - done

New radio - done

Replace Valve Cover Gasket - In progress

Brake Job - In Progress

Resruface Front Brake Rotors - In progress

Clean and repack lockiing hubs - In progress

Install new brake pads - In progress

Replace Steering Gear - In progress

Replace control arm brushing - In progress

Spare tire jack kit installed - purchased

Registration/License

Shell

Paint

Install

Replace Gas Tank

Replace Gas Cap

Replace Passenger Mirror

Tow wiring

Fog lights

Fog light switch installed

Instrument cluster

Oil sensor

Temp sensor

Interior lights

Seat Repair

Seat Cover

Bed Carpet Kit

 

You guys got any other suggestions. LOL

 

I know, pull up the carpet!!

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The black one also belonged to the guy I bought this red one from but the black one was only a 4 banger. Although he claimed it to be 98% restored. Shortly after we agreed on a price for the red one he was run off the rod by a drunk driver in Mexico and rolled the black one. Bummer. He also has a white one with what he says had over 1 million miles on it. WOW!!

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Here are a few things I could think of since I can't sleep... :yes:

 

Replace Valve Cover Gasket - In progress

People have been swapping on '92 or newer 4.0HO valve covers because they control blow-by better.

 

Resurface Front Brake Rotors - In progress

Brake rotors are cheap enough to just replace them. They warp easier/faster after being resurfaced.

 

Install new brake pads - In progress

Get Performance Friction brake pads or another aggressive type of pads(MJ/XJ brakes suck).

 

Bleed/flush the brakes until clean fluid comes out since its probably old and contaminated.

 

You might want swap in a '95-'96 XJ dual diaphram brake booster and master cylinder for better braking performance also.

 

http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/ARbrakeBoosterUpgrade/BrakeBoosterUpgrade.htm

 

Brake Job - In Progress

Check the ride height valve(on the frame above the axle,has a link that goes to the rear axle) to make sure its hooked up and working. Make sure it's adjusted correctly too.

 

Clean and repack locking hubs - In progress
How are you doing this when there aren't any locking hubs used on MJ's??? (They are available from aftermarket sources but I don't see them)...

 

Replace control arm brushing - In progress

Use a Moog Problem Solver bushing kit. It costs more but is worth every penny.

 

Replace Steering Gear - In progress

If its not leaking in probably only needs an adjustment. If you do replace the steering gear get one from a late model Dodge Durango.('99+ I believe). It has a forth mounting bolt. Get the inside and outside plates that keep the frame from cracking where the gear mounts. C-ROK has brackets for 4 bolt boxes also.

 

http://www.c-rok.com/sb.html

insideplate200.jpg

 

You guys got any other suggestions.

Also make sure the ball joints, trackbar and steering is tight without any play.

 

You should also get pull points front and rear so you can be safely pulled out if needed. A slide in D-ring for your rear hitch and a set of Custom 4x4 front tow hooks will do a good job.

 

Get a fuel tank skid plate and a transfercase skid plate for extra safety. There just was one of each in the classifed section, they might still be available.

 

For the little bit they cost you should replace your headlights with a set of high output ones part number 6054HO. They have a 55 watt low beam instead of the stock 35 watt low beams and a 65 watt high beam instead of the stock 55 watt high beam. They are DOT approved. Then go out and properly adjust them. It will make a big difference. :brows:

 

Change the transmission fluid, transfercase fluid(both use DexronII fluid) and change the gear lube in both axles. If it has a limited slip make sure you use the additive for it. I use 75w-140 Mopar synthetic gear lube in my Jeeps.

 

Check the air filter and see if it needs a tune-up. Clean the throttle body bore and the throttle plate using a rag on your finger or tooth brush with carb clean while the engine is off and the throttle is wide open. clean the IAC while you are there(idle air control valve).

 

That should keep you busy. :banana:

 

:cheers:

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