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extended driveshaft


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ok so i used the rockyroad outfitters lift on my 89 comanche (4x4 swb standard), and after i finished the back i realized that my driveshaft stuck out of my transfercase about 2 inches. knowing that would happen but didnt realize it be that bad and my kit did not come with a transfer case drop. so is there a driveshaft from any other car that would work, such as a long bed comanche, or a 2wd comanche that would be long enough to where it won't stick out of my transfercase. and i havent been able to drive my comanche but anyone know if i would have driveline vibes and should i do a SYE?

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A couple of questions to make it easier to figure this out: 1) How much lift are you dealing with, i.e. 3", 4.5" or .... 2) as for the SYE, what are your angles running, esp. at the X-case?

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A couple of questions to make it easier to figure this out: 1) How much lift are you dealing with, i.e. 3", 4.5" or .... 2) as for the SYE, what are your angles running, esp. at the X-case?

 

It says 6 inches but it looks taller, i don't know my angles , i will check on that and post it here

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At 6", you may be okay with your stock drive shaft if you drop the transfer case an inch and raise your pinion angle slightly (so they are still parallel).

 

If you're going to get a new drive shaft you might as well get a SYE, but one is not necessary. With a new longer drive shaft but no SYE you want to be sure you don't end up with the opposite problem: your drive shaft going into the transfer case too far when you carry weight in the truck, damaging the transfer case.

 

The cheapest solution might be to get a longer yoke off Ebay and cut it off at whatever length you need, keeping the rest of your stock shaft.

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Not the best solution for everyone...

 

but when I had issues of the driveshaft being *slightly* too short, or too long, I've just moved my rear axle forward, or back an inch, or so to made up the difference.

 

You redrill the center hole on the spring perch, pop the spring center bolt into the new hole (drilling exactly the same distance on each perch is importaint), be sure to drill a new hole for the back of the center bolt in the U-bolt plate, and bolt it all back together.

 

Even when I don't have driveshaft issues, I've used this method to tweak my wheelbase whenever I needed it.

My MJ's rear is set back about 1.25" like this right now (hole drilled forward in perch, to set axle back).

It's spent more time set back, than in the stock position.

 

You can't get too crazy with this, mostly because the perches are only so long, but I wouldn't want to get too close to the edge of the perch with my spring center pins.

 

The other thing you could do is get a YJ/TJ T-case yoke.

They allow more droop, and *some* of them are slightly longer.

The YJ yoke I had appeared to be 1/4"-3/8" longer, but the splines inside didn't go all the way to the edge as my XJ yoke did.

At some point, XJ's started using the same yoke as YJ/TJ's, but I can't remember the year.

 

3rd solution is to get another shaft, and shorten it.

When I converted my old MJ to 4wd, and SOA'd it, I had a driveshaft laying around that used the same U-joints, but was way longer.

A local shop cut it down, and I was good to go.

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Hey, I just thought of the 4th, and best option.......

 

SWAP IN A BIGGER REAR AXLE. :thumbsup:

 

Bigger axle with a longer pinion distance will make up the difference in driveshaft lenght. :cheers:

 

If you already have a D44, you could get a slightly longer D35 driveshaft.

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Hey, I just thought of the 4th, and best option.......

 

SWAP IN A BIGGER REAR AXLE. :thumbsup:

 

Bigger axle with a longer pinion distance will make up the difference in driveshaft lenght. :cheers:

 

If you already have a D44, you could get a slightly longer D35 driveshaft.

 

well I'm suppose to be getting a dana 44 from a local member, and right now i have a dana 35, so i guess that kinda works out,

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