Door Insulation

[flint54]

Wanted to insulate the doors to lower inside heat and reduce noise.

Many expensive products (like dynamat) to choose from. I found

an ideal and inexpensive product. It's called Duct Insulation, and is

an adhesive-backed, closed cell foam about 1/8" thick with an aluminum

foil face. Waterproof, cuts easily, and conforms to surface changes.

Made by Frost King, product number FV516, and available at Home Depot

for around $18 for a 12" by 15ft roll. Recommend installing in four pieces,

upper forward, upper aft, lower forward, then lower aft. Left about 1/4"

gap at the bottom so as to not block the drainage. Took about 30 minutes

per door.

[brdhntr]

thanks for the tip. that would work well on the roof under the headliner. :thumbsup:

[CWLONGSHOT]

GREAT TIP!! Thnaks, how well did it work?

 

You don't really get cold cold down there in Florida... But how was the noise after the install?

 

CW

[brubakes]

Thanks for the tip. I was looking for something myself.

[mfpdm]

Did something similar to the Wild build with some insulation from Lowes. Sounds close but mine was not self adhesive-backed. I used spray adhesive. Here's a link Click Here

 

 

I figured it will be better than nothing and a lot cheaper than the professional stuff. Will do above the headliner and under the rear window as well.

 

:cheers:

[brubakes]

Did something similar to the Wild build with some insulation from Lowes. Sounds close but mine was not self adhesive-backed. I used spray adhesive. Here's a link Click Here

 

 

I figured it will be better than nothing and a lot cheaper than the professional stuff. Will do above the headliner and under the rear window as well.

 

:cheers:

 

 

Where you happy with the results for the cost? Did it really help with the road noise?

[flint54]

]'GREAT TIP!! Thnaks, how well did it work? You don't really get cold cold down there in Florida... But how was the noise after the install?"[/quote

 

Not cold??? This has indeed been a most brutal winter here! We had frost, real frost, not

once but twice! The recovery has been pretty slow, and I doubt life will ever be fully

restored again.

 

Regarding the insulation, the doors were the last thing to complete, having done already the roof, the rear

wall, and all the side closeout covers. Is the difference dramatic? Not really. Is it noticable? I think so.

Summertime will be the real test.

[codybutz]

do you think this stuff could be used on the floors instead of the dnya mat for under the carpet? and on the rear cab wall under the window? i'm in the middle of doing my floor pans, i would really like to reinsulate and carpet. i know i could just bedline the floors, but i'd rather not, just my personal pref.

[flint54]

You could use it on the floor, but consider that any product that is adhesive bonded to the floor

would make it very difficult to perform future inspections for moisture/rust. Also, it would

compress over time and become less effective. If you use it for the floor, consider leaving the

"peel off" film in place so that it can be lifted at a later time. It would be great on the rear wall.

[johnj92131]

Most of the noise on my 91 Comanche seems to be wind noise. My first attempt to reduce the noise will be to install the late door seals. After that I may try 1997 doors and the one piece window. Or maybe do the late doors at the same time as the door seals.

 

Just a comment on the thermal insulation value of anything an eigth of an inch thick. It can not be very much at all. But Dynamat and the like seem very expensive. A properly functioning Jeep heater should be more than enough to keep an MJ cab way warmer than I would ever want.

 

But I live in San Diego, and 45 to 50 degree temps, mean we are FREEZING our suntanned butts of here. Or we are up in the mountains playing in the snow.

 

Here is an interesting link for sound insulation: http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

 

Anyone know where I can get a decent sound meter? Would like to do before and after measurements.

[flint54]

Just a comment on the thermal insulation value of anything an eigth of an inch thick. It can not be very much at all.

 

True, in terms of "R" value, but also keep in mind that to block radiant heat only takes a reflective barrier, hence the foil. Also, the foam

bonded to the door skin dampens transient vibration. At least in theory, and probably close to trivial below mach 4, but it was only $20 bucks.

 

I've replaced the vent wing seals (boy, was that ever fun!!), and upgraded to the '97 door seal, and added a 1/4" by 1/4" foam "shim" behind the door seal bulb to position it more prominent (better contact with door), but I still haven't totally licked the wind noise above 60mph. I'm probably expecting way too much.

[phenryiv1]

Just a couple of comments on the Frost King...

 

I used it (over mass-loaded deadner liky dynamat) in a stereo install in my 2003 SpecV and it worked REALLY well. I cleaned the metal well with vinegar-based cleaner and then used the mass deadner, then covered the mass loader with theis barrier membrane. I then used aluminized HVAC tape to tape and seal all of the edges and promote longer adhesion.

 

I used a wallpaper roller to set the adhesive and ensure good contact, and I used a hair dryer to set the adhesive. After a year, I sold the car and removed all of my stereo gear, and the product was still firmly adhered to the vehicle. I know that the prep work and HVAC tape really helped, because I know of others who never did that and the stuff peeled off on them.

 

My temps here in the Mid-Atlantic region vary from about 0* up to 110* in the vehicle.

[comanche87]

hmmm i very tempted to use that for my floor and the rear cab below the window. before i put the carpet in from my xj. in spring.

[phenryiv1]

hmmm i very tempted to use that for my floor and the rear cab below the window. before i put the carpet in from my xj. in spring.

As was mentioned above, this may not be the best for the floor. For that, I would recommend normal foam carpet padding from Lowes or HD- the kind that goes under house carpet.

 

I never thought to use this on the back wall of the cab, however. It would be great for there.

[mfpdm]

hmmm i very tempted to use that for my floor and the rear cab below the window. before i put the carpet in from my xj. in spring.

As was mentioned above, this may not be the best for the floor. For that, I would recommend normal foam carpet padding from Lowes or HD- the kind that goes under house carpet.

 

I never thought to use this on the back wall of the cab, however. It would be great for there.

 

Yep agree about not laying it on the floor. Maybe on the tranny tunnel, but not on the pans. And yes, I think it will help on the back wall.

 

 

:cheers:

[comanche87]

ooooooo i like!!!! i will definatly get that stuff before i put my rearcab carpet in!! nice job!! :cheers: :cheers: