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What to do, what to do...


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I have an old 86 'manche with a 2.5L TBI and a 4spd manual. Its 2wd and yeah it has its problems but hey it gets me to work and back every day (50 miles round trip) and some times to west palm beach and back (400 miles round trip). The truck does have some gremlins and I was wondering what I should do. First all the wiring is old and even though the truck is running the circuit that runs the running/parking/signal/ and instrument lights has already shorted and i have yet to fix it. when I replace the fuse those sysems work fine while the truck is off but after it is started for a short period of time the fuse will blow. I was thinking of junking the injection system in favor of a carb and going old school with the electric system. then again this is my first jeep and my first mj so feel free to give your 2 cents.

 

Buddy

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The 2.5L engine came from the factory with a (junk) carburetor for the first two years of the XJ. I'm old enough to remember decent carburetors and they have a lot to recommend themselves. They're easy to work on, easy to rebuild (if you can find the kits), and they can be tuned. With injectors, the only "tuning" is to buy a larger or smaller injector. That one TBI injector for the 2.5L costs more than a carburetor would

 

IMHO, if I had lots of $$$ I'd convert a 2.5L to a late-model, multi-port injected system and run a Mopar Stage 2 or Stage 3 cam. But if I were on a budget -- yeah, I'd throw a carb and an old-fashioned ignition system in it.

 

Be sure to Google up "Nutter bypass" if you do this.

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well i was looking at all the vacuum lines and the wiring in the engine bay and if i get rid of all that crap it will be pretty simple to work on. figure going with a webber or edlebrock carb and call it a day and then just fab up a panel for gauges

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yeah, I'd throw a carb and an old-fashioned ignition system in it.

 

Be sure to Google up "Nutter bypass" if you do this.

 

 

The nutter bypass is normally done on 4.2L carbed motors isnt it? How would I apply this to my vehicle since I'm going from TBI to carbed?

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yeah, I'd throw a carb and an old-fashioned ignition system in it.

 

Be sure to Google up "Nutter bypass" if you do this.

 

 

The nutter bypass is normally done on 4.2L carbed motors isnt it? How would I apply this to my vehicle since I'm going from TBI to carbed?

It was also done to the 84 and 85 carbureted 2.5L Cherokees. If you're going to go to a carburetor, you're going to need a distributor and an ignition system. The 84/85 XJ would seem like the most probable source, so it would make sense to do the Nutter bypass while installing the parts.

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Ok so i needed to bump this cause in interested in it. I was looking through my repair manual and the 84/85 cherokees used a MCU to control ignition and it could advance it and retard it based on engine operating conditions. So if i was going to go old school I would need the MCU, Coil, and complete dizzy? IS there anything else I would need? Also the TBi fuel body unbolts from the throttle body and then the throttle body from the manifold. So i would jsut remove all that and bolt on the carb?

 

Buddy

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Have you thought about just fixing what's there? A multimeter and a shop manual (whether in book form or online) can get your truck running reliably. Don't fear the fuel injection. It's a far superior delivery system and the Jeep Renix versions are pretty straightforward once you get to know them. :thumbsup:

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Believe me pete I'm not scared of fuel injection or the truck for that matter. Hell i think I should take some pics of my heep just to show you what I'm working with. The main concern is the wiring on the truck itself. its just well for lack of better words - OLD. I already have a few gremlins that i need to sort out including why my parking light fuse keeps blowing while the truck is running. Like to fix whats there but I can't even get a replacement 60/70 fuse panel unless its from the JY. By the way i don't know how helpful it is but i have a engine,chassis and body aong with the electirc service manuals froman 89 manche. they were my best friend's dad's books.

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If you were stealing parts from an 84-85 Cherokee, would they be even older? :hmm:

 

I can't say for sure, but I doubt much of the wiring/parts in a 2.5L truck changed from 86 to 90. The repair manual should be very useful. :thumbsup:

 

As to the parking lights, many owners have had issues with the bulb sockets corroding.

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If you were stealing parts from an 84-85 Cherokee, would they be even older? :hmm:

 

I can't say for sure, but I doubt much of the wiring/parts in a 2.5L truck changed from 86 to 90. The repair manual should be very useful. :thumbsup:

 

As to the parking lights, many owners have had issues with the bulb sockets corroding.

 

that is true it is older :agree: . Still I'm lost as to where to go with this truck

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I would start with checking the condition (and then clean) all the harness grounds, light sockets and the wires that run to said light sockets. :thumbsup: It can be a slow process to bring an old girl back to life, but be methodical and you'll get there. :cheers:

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I say to switch to MPI with a 91 and newer Chrysler motor. Swap the engine harness and the interior harness and while your at it remove the unnecessary wires There quite a few of them I got mine to run good with only a dozen or less and then finished hooking up what you need. Plus if you get the newest 2.5 and harnesses out there it will be much younger. Or you can get Painless wiring to build you a new harness for both that only includes wires for your specific truck. I called them and they said no problem but i need them to know everything i wanted in it. The painless idea would be cheaper then the other and would be plug and play.

 

Cole

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I would start with checking the condition (and then clean) all the harness grounds, light sockets and the wires that run to said light sockets. :thumbsup: It can be a slow process to bring an old girl back to life, but be methodical and you'll get there. :cheers:

 

 

to be honest pete the systems were working fine until a coworker poured water on my windshield and it leaked into the cab and I'm sure got onto the fuse panel :fs1: . I have unscrewed the paned from the firewall but I'm hesitant to open it because its old and this is my only means of transport to work and back. I just don't want to do something that can't be undone.

 

Buddy

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I'd start by making sure water can't get into your cab from the windshield. :eek:

 

And as the old saying goes, "no guts, no glory". :D Water in the fuse box should have long ago evaporated. (wouldn't rain also be getting in there if it's that easy?) I'd start with the simple things and work my way towards the hard. This could all just be mere coincidence and you could be tearing apart the fusebox for nothing. :thumbsup:

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I have recently obtained ownership of a 87 mj with a 2.5. It had many many wiring "gremlins". I was putting off their repair (I fear electrical work), and finally one day I decided to fix just one problem, and leave the rest for another day. I fixed every problem it had in less than two hours, because every single problem it had was because of corrosion. I used a q-tip and some battery terminal cleaner and got everything working on it except the buzzer (which I am going to start a separate post about). You may have already checked for corrosion in your problem areas, but if not, go ahead check them you may be as pleasantly surprised as I was.

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True that. I jsut did the front brakes. THank god for 2 piece rotors. aNo play in the wheel either so ill save the repacking of bearings for later. Figured saftey before electric work. and right now the truck is acting weird i punch it and it hesitates and it actually backfired.. i wonder if the fuel is getting to the engine or not.....oh well save that for later. Anyways Ill check all the sockets for the lights associated to that fuse and clean them and then after that Ill check the panel. Hopefully I can figure it out.

 

Buddy

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