Starts and dies; relays; Ignition switch; headlights, dimmer

[deziped]

It sure sounds to me like its a problem in the switch down the steering column aways. When you turn the key all that does is move a connecting shaft/rod going to the elec switch itself. It possible when your backing the key out of the start position the switch, on down the column, is losing contact & cutting the elec flow. Out of curosity when the switch is in the run position are you getting electricity to things like the radio, fan blower, fuel guage etc.? :dunno:

[tugalo]

Hmmmm......how about the relay that switches the ballast resistor into and out of the circuit....

[tugalo]

Hmmmm......how about the relay that switches the ballast resistor into and out of the circuit....

[bilgamesh]

Thanks for all the posts; let me try to sum up:

 

Engine cranks and fires, but won't stay running except with key in start position! :dunno:

 

Fuel pump does prime up when key is turned on. :thumbsup:

 

I jumpered the ballast resistor. (Easy to do, but no help) :???:

 

CPS, I don't think so, as it is not only cranking incessantly, but firing up. :no:

 

I replaced the ignition switch to no effect. (Huge headache to replace; much cursing...) :mad:

 

Very hot battery and problem goes away! :hmm:

 

I appreciate any thoughts out there! :help:

 

Might the fuel pump relay be a factor? :typing:

 

Bill

[bilgamesh]

Thanks for all the posts; let me try to sum up:

 

Engine cranks and fires, but won't stay running except with key in start position! :dunno:

 

Fuel pump does prime up when key is turned on. :thumbsup:

 

I jumpered the ballast resistor. (Easy to do, but no help) :???:

 

CPS, I don't think so, as it is not only cranking incessantly, but firing up. :no:

 

I replaced the ignition switch to no effect. (Huge headache to replace; much cursing...) :mad:

 

Very hot battery and problem goes away! :hmm:

 

I appreciate any thoughts out there! :help:

 

Might the fuel pump relay be a factor? :typing:

 

Bill

[tugalo]

Simple check.....pull out the fuel pump relay and swap it with another one.

If it works, one side of the relay is bad.......powering up the pump when in the start position, but not in the run position....

[tugalo]

Simple check.....pull out the fuel pump relay and swap it with another one.

If it works, one side of the relay is bad.......powering up the pump when in the start position, but not in the run position....

[bilgamesh]

The more I think about the fuel pump angle, the less sense it makes. The pump is clearly working as it does start, and will keep running and I can even rev it with the key in the start position. AND, as Eagle pointed out, it should have enough fuel in the rail to run for at least a few seconds in any case.

 

So, what else could be shutting off intermittently when the key moves from the start position to the on position?

 

:idea: Obviously the battery is delivering plenty of current to the starter, but is it possible the secondary hot wire off the battery is delivering a weak current to other systems, such that when the battery has a really good charge it can overcome this?

 

I know I have read the computer flushes every time it is shut down, so what if it is trying to start, has timing, fuel, spark and good info from all sensors to the computer, but then when the key moves to the run/on position, the computer loses its mind again. Is this possible?

 

Thanks,

Bill

[bilgamesh]

The more I think about the fuel pump angle, the less sense it makes. The pump is clearly working as it does start, and will keep running and I can even rev it with the key in the start position. AND, as Eagle pointed out, it should have enough fuel in the rail to run for at least a few seconds in any case.

 

So, what else could be shutting off intermittently when the key moves from the start position to the on position?

 

:idea: Obviously the battery is delivering plenty of current to the starter, but is it possible the secondary hot wire off the battery is delivering a weak current to other systems, such that when the battery has a really good charge it can overcome this?

 

I know I have read the computer flushes every time it is shut down, so what if it is trying to start, has timing, fuel, spark and good info from all sensors to the computer, but then when the key moves to the run/on position, the computer loses its mind again. Is this possible?

 

Thanks,

Bill

[BLHTAZ]

Bill...after reaading this, I still can't help but think that this is an ignition switch problem. I know you just changed it and it was a PITA, but it just seems to that the problem is in there. Are you sure you got the right switch? There are two different ones...one for with tilt, and one for without tilt column.

[BLHTAZ]

Bill...after reaading this, I still can't help but think that this is an ignition switch problem. I know you just changed it and it was a PITA, but it just seems to that the problem is in there. Are you sure you got the right switch? There are two different ones...one for with tilt, and one for without tilt column.

[bilgamesh]

I did get the right ignition switch, and remember, it works fine when the battery has a really hot charge. :dunno:

[bilgamesh]

I did get the right ignition switch, and remember, it works fine when the battery has a really hot charge. :dunno:

[BLHTAZ]

OK...so is it possible that it's as simple as a bad battery? I have heard that a weak battery will cause a lot of strange issues on these trucks, but have no personal experience with that.

 

Sorry that I am not being a lot of help as electrical stuff is not my forté, but I am hoping that what I spit out in my thought process will possibly trigger something helpful from someone more knowledgeable ;)

[BLHTAZ]

OK...so is it possible that it's as simple as a bad battery? I have heard that a weak battery will cause a lot of strange issues on these trucks, but have no personal experience with that.

 

Sorry that I am not being a lot of help as electrical stuff is not my forté, but I am hoping that what I spit out in my thought process will possibly trigger something helpful from someone more knowledgeable ;)

[bilgamesh]

I appreciate the feedback. I would much rather replace the battery than dig into anything else electrical. I think I will let it stew on the forum for a few days before I throw another part at it. Maybe one of you will give me a bump occasionally to keep it fresh on the board.

 

Thanks,

Bill

[bilgamesh]

I appreciate the feedback. I would much rather replace the battery than dig into anything else electrical. I think I will let it stew on the forum for a few days before I throw another part at it. Maybe one of you will give me a bump occasionally to keep it fresh on the board.

 

Thanks,

Bill

[robfg67]

Where did you get the ignition switch? From everything written here, it sounds like this is the problem. It's unusual but not unheard of to get a bad switch. Also, there is small steel rod on that runs down the fuse box side of the column that controls the high beams-it just fell out of the holder.

 

I had a bad switch that did some funky stuff before i replaced it with a good one.

 

Lastly can you swap-in a similar sized battery from another vehicle to test. How about the condition of your battery cables?

[robfg67]

Where did you get the ignition switch? From everything written here, it sounds like this is the problem. It's unusual but not unheard of to get a bad switch. Also, there is small steel rod on that runs down the fuse box side of the column that controls the high beams-it just fell out of the holder.

 

I had a bad switch that did some funky stuff before i replaced it with a good one.

 

Lastly can you swap-in a similar sized battery from another vehicle to test. How about the condition of your battery cables?

[bilgamesh]

The switch is a Duralast from Autozone. I appreciate the feedback to keep the ball rolling, but I think the odds of a replacement switch acting up in exactly the same way as the old one, and working flawlessly when the battery has a very hot charge, are slim at best. Given the level of difficulty at getting it back out and in again, I think that would likely be one of the last things I will check from here.

 

I may give the battery swap a go.

 

Thanks,

Bill

[bilgamesh]

The switch is a Duralast from Autozone. I appreciate the feedback to keep the ball rolling, but I think the odds of a replacement switch acting up in exactly the same way as the old one, and working flawlessly when the battery has a very hot charge, are slim at best. Given the level of difficulty at getting it back out and in again, I think that would likely be one of the last things I will check from here.

 

I may give the battery swap a go.

 

Thanks,

Bill

[deziped]

Why don't you loosen the two screws on the switch, hold the key in accesory position while sliding the switch down the column to remove rod slack, tighten screws, and then try to start it again. Something could have slipped on your initial install of switch.

If that don't change anything I would make sure all elect connection on starter are clean & tight.

I would check, clean and tighten all connections on distribution block next to battery and make sure cables are clean & tight to battery post.

If that don't do it borrow a couple newer battery cables and slap on it. I've had battery cables build up internal corrrison that diminished current flow once battery capacity had diminished slightly.

Is the ECU getting voltage in the run position? :dunno:

[deziped]

Why don't you loosen the two screws on the switch, hold the key in accesory position while sliding the switch down the column to remove rod slack, tighten screws, and then try to start it again. Something could have slipped on your initial install of switch.

If that don't change anything I would make sure all elect connection on starter are clean & tight.

I would check, clean and tighten all connections on distribution block next to battery and make sure cables are clean & tight to battery post.

If that don't do it borrow a couple newer battery cables and slap on it. I've had battery cables build up internal corrrison that diminished current flow once battery capacity had diminished slightly.

Is the ECU getting voltage in the run position? :dunno:

[Jacobs]

Kind of a long shot here but you never know. Of course a bad ground issue will cause a voltage drop due to high resistance. The battery being fully charged might allow enough voltage to loop through the ground to get things fired up. I'd recommend checking the main battery connections and then where they meet the block, as well as the computer grounds on the passenger side of the block by the dipstick.

 

Hey- it's a cheap (0$) fix if it works!

[Eagle]

Following up on Jacobs' idea -- also check to be sure the fuel pump has a good ground.