lennyKatan Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 I’ve used a hand wire brush a hand grinder and wire brush and I also used RustKutter from tractor supply. I only did the inside not underneath. Do I need to do underneath? Is POR 15 the only stuff to use on this job? At $40 a q it’s a bite much. How much would I need to do the floor pan area and to do the frame once I have the bed off? Has anyone used Durabak, instead? Question, I have 16g metal for the pans. Do I need to have all of the ridge’s bang in? All the ups and downs of what the pans use to look like, or it’s not so important? My rocker needs to be done too. Should I do all with one piece of metal? (Floor pan and Rocker)? As you could tell I'm new to this. Happy to give you all something to …LOL..about! What comes first the rocker or the pans if I can’t do it all with1 piece of metal? I’m planning on using rivets with metal screws to put the pans on whatever is left of the floors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddzz1 Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 I have to do my floor next summer and i just borrowed a welder to teach myself to weld. I am probally gonna order a floor pan from shermanparts.com and put it in with rivets and then weld it. You can buy replacment rockers for pretty cheap. They are seperate pieces. I plan on using the por-15 also in the cab and on the frame and the complete chassis. mfpdm did it on his truck. Check out his incredible build here: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... sc&start=0 The por-15 pics are on page 4 and 5. He can probally tell you how much you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 Send me a PM. I rebuilt my driver's side floor out of 16 gauge steel and took a ton of pictures. I can send them to you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 Seemingly useless ridges are added to sheetmetal to give it more strength. 16 gauge steel is think enough to not have to worry about that, but is a b*@$£ to work with because of its thickness/strength. I used 16 gauge galvanized to replace the floor in my F100. If I ever do a floor again, I'll either get replacement floor pans, or use 18 gauge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfpdm Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 I have to do my floor next summer and i just borrowed a welder to teach myself to weld. I am probally gonna order a floor pan from shermanparts.com and put it in with rivets and then weld it. You can buy replacment rockers for pretty cheap. They are seperate pieces. I plan on using the por-15 also in the cab and on the frame and the complete chassis. mfpdm did it on his truck. Check out his incredible build here: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... sc&start=0 The por-15 pics are on page 4 and 5. He can probally tell you how much you need. The por-15 covers pretty good and a little will go a long way. I used one quart and one pint for all I did but I would recommend getting 2 quarts and lay it on a little thicker. Mine was very clean and I live below the salt belt so a thin coat was all I needed. If I did it again, I would go thicker and maybe even go with the gallon just to have extra for all the other suspension parts and things you'll paint later. Just when you use the por-15, always pour what you need out of the can and seal it back up so it will keep longer. Thanks for the build plug maddzz1. :thumbsup: :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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