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Engine block coolant plugs


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Anyone ever remove them while the motor was still in the Jeep?

 

I figured I'd get off my lazy butt tonight and start some real work on the heep.

 

I am reading the 90 DC Service Manual, and it says to open the drain C#*@ on the rad first, to remove the coolant. Second item is to open the engine block coolant plug, and also remove the temp sensor from its plug hole.

 

I can't seem to get behind the motor mount to get to the temp sensor. I can kind of reach the rear plug, but it is really tight.

 

Has anyone done this? Do you have small hands? As always, any ideas are appreciated.

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Do not attempt open the drain C#*@ on the radiator! At least not if you don't want to replace it (radiator that is, not drain C#*@). After 20 or so years they usually do not want to open without breaking.

 

Take the lower coolant hose off instead.

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HOLD ON!

 

What, exactly, are you looking to remove? Are you removing the freeze plugs, or the threaded block drains that you're supposed to open when draining and refilling the coolant?

 

Freeze plugs are fine...I'm opening up the block drains to drian the coolant so I can change the head gasket.

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Do not attempt open the drain C#*@ on the radiator! At least not if you don't want to replace it (radiator that is, not drain C#*@). After 20 or so years they usually do not want to open without breaking.

 

Take the lower coolant hose off instead.

 

The rad is new-ish, so the drain C#*@ is plastic (not sure what the older ones are made of) and it opened right up with no problems.

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HOLD ON!

 

What, exactly, are you looking to remove? Are you removing the freeze plugs, or the threaded block drains that you're supposed to open when draining and refilling the coolant?

 

Freeze plugs are fine...I'm opening up the block drains to drian the coolant so I can change the head gasket.

That's what I thought. Some of the previous responses seemed to be talking about freeze plugs.

 

I've pulled the block drains with the engine in the vehicle. Never tried to pull the temp sender in the block. I think the FSM meant to remove the sender in the head. Just be careful it doesn't snap off ... although since you'll have the head off anyway, you would have access to drilling out the stub.

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