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I gave some guy $200 to remove the motor from his 88 XJ so I could put it in my 86 MJ. Took me a few weekends but I got the POS 2.5l and ax-5 outta there and mounted the 4.0 with only minor massages to the firewall. Started up as soon as I plugged the harness in and hooked up the fuel lines. Only problem is that it leaked - from everywhere. Valve cover and oil filter jobs were easy. I knew it was the rear main bc what else ya know it was a $200 motor. First try - new rear main seal and oil pan gasket. Drained the oil and took it all apart. The old rear main was cracked and damn near seized inside the bearing cap. Got it out, blasted with brake clean and brass brush, autozone silicone only where specified by installation manual. Let dry for 48 hours. Leaking again immediately. Second try - new rear main but reused the blue fel-pro oil pan gasket cause I’m cheap. Did some digging and some people said they had success with anaerobic gasket maker (the kind that makes a plastic seal when torqued between two steel faces). Went a little crazy and put it on the entire bearing cap face. Let cure for a week. Leaking again - probably worse. Third try - I work construction and saw that one of my vendors had sent too many tubes of this industrial blue loctite silicone gasket maker. Why not try it? New oil pan gasket, new rear main. Spent extra time cleaning each and every with razor blade and brass brush and used lots of brake clean. Squeezed this blue stuff up into the bearing cap on each side, stuck the upper piece in, more blue stuff in the seat of the lower bearing cap, more blue stuff on the face all around the cap, and a 1/8” bead of it on top and bottom of the new oil pan gasket. It’s actually the same color as the blue fel-pro gasket. Let cure for a week. No leaks. Use this stuff.

Please help, I've got engine oil in clutch reservoir (?) I recently became a proud owner of a 4WD 89 Comanche 4.0 paired to a Peugeot transmission, but the previous owner lost the clutch while delivering it to my house, making clutch-less shifts. We added fluid to the master cylinder reservoir, pumped the clutch, and the fluid turned black. Now the clutch has some pressure, but quickly loses it as it drips from where the rear main seal would be. The seller mentioned that the rear-main seal was most likely bad, and it explained the oil leak that I saw when I test drove it. The master cylinder doesn't seem to be leaking, nor does the line leading to the internally located slave cylinder. The engine oil is pitch black and very low. My best guess is that the slave cylinder blew and is ingesting oil from the rear-main seal leak? Has anyone encountered this? I tried to find videos on how to replace the slave cylinder when it's internally mounted, but had no luck. I wanted to get it running myself so I could plan out what the build would be, but now I'm wondering if I should send it out, swap to an AX15, replace the clutch, and convert to an external slave cylinder. Any advice is much appreciated

Hi guys I'm looking at changing my RMS on a 4.0 that's out of its bay and is being used for a 2.5 to 4.0 swap. As far as I know the rms does not leak. but it has 180k miles on it, and the engine's already out, so as dad says, 'better safe than sorry'. That being said I figure I should replace the rms while the engine is divorced from its comanche since idk the condition of the rms. So I've checked Rockauto and they have lots of options. Should I go with one-piece, two piece, brand...? I figure one piece would seal the best. I just don't know if it would be better in the long run cuz I'm pretty sure the next time I'd have to change it it'll be in the truck and a one-piece unit would be harder to remove. FYI first time changing rms. Also, going with the cheapest one-piece oil-pan seal rockauto has.