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So my jeep has been making a weird knocking noise inbetween the tranny & motor. I have read it could be cracked flex plate or loose flex plate bolts. Bolts were tight and I couldn’t really tell if my flex plate was cracked or not so I went ahead and pulled the tranny. Gonna go ahead and change the flex plate (if I got the right one). Any other ideas on why my transmission is making noise? It has also been shifting a very high rpm even after I changed the TPS. Below is the new flex plate and old. Could someone also tell me if it’s the right one?

So were back at trying to get this Mighty MJ back in all of her GLORY!!!. Ok so problem is this. We took in the ole Manch to get looked at for a few small things..... one of which was the clutch. It would do this and it would do that when and if it wanted to go into a gear. Long story short its either the clutch plates or input shaft bearing or the fly wheel as it was acting so sporadic . There was a lot of chatter when it would go into gear and when it wouldn't go in it would just rev real high and you couldn't even crack it into gear. We've all been there at one time or another I'm sure...…..there was a noise in the bell housing which turned out to be a bad clutch which was caused by the bad input shaft bearing that failed and took out the pilot bearing as well. This led to the transmission gears being chipped. My guy to it to a tranny shop and he got the price for BA-10 to AX-15 conversion, $4300!!! Ya right.... I understand that parts aren't available for the BA10 as it was only a few year run. but $4300? seems pretty steep. Looking for help and options to either 1. find a good BA 10 that will go right in good condition. 2. suitable substitute that will work with the original 4.0l 4WD. 3. I am open to make it an automatic. 4. I am open to convert to an AX 15 5. Also whatever new tranny option will give me good engine replacement options in the near future as I'm sure that this 4.0 is winding down..... runs fine now but shes going to need a newer 4.0 and or a 5.3L to keep her up to par. so in short what ever any ideas that anyone has that will get the beast of an MJ on the road again will be appreciated. Don't worry pics will be posted. Hit me up and lets pay homage to the mighty MJ!!!! THANKS!!!!!

Hi guys, it's been a while.... I need some help diagnosing a shifting problem. Well, actually, it's not shifting, that's the problem. For starters, this is an 88' Comanche, 4.0, manual tranny, yes I am a girl and yes I do all my own work and have for many years, even successfully, LOL! I'm guessing the syncros are shot, but I'm not certain and transmissions are not my specialty. It's always been a little stiff going into first or second gear when cold, nature of the beast as I am told. Though I have noticed it getting a little worse lately. I recently replaced my clutch, plate and internal slave cylinder and all was working well after the repair and shifting was like butter. That was a month ago. The last several days first, second and reverse started getting tough. Today it got worse and I had to drive some back roads in second gear home. Thank goodness I wasn't far from home. I'm fairly certain the clutch is disengaging fully. It was bled properly when I changed the clutch assembly. When it's not running I can change gears easily, this is only when it's running. Third and fourth gear seem to be ok. I'm guessing my (probably) 28 year old syncros are failing. Does anyone have any suggestions on anything I can check or test before resorting to taking the transmission out..... again! Though I'm 125 lbs of stubborn ornery, dropping the tranny is no easy task, on the ground with a standard hydraulic jack...solo, no matter how big you are. I did pull my engine and dismantle it by myself and that felt like a piece of cake compared to dropping the tranny without a lift... I will admit I did enlist the help of my rather large 6'3"/220lb military son to wrestle the tranny off the spindle and back on, he is not available right now to help. He is keeping up the family tradition (which started with me, there are no grandpas or uncles) and he is a crew chief and a jet mechanic in the Air Force. Sorry, I can't help myself when it comes to bragging about him. When we work on cars together, he calls us master and blaster... :-) got any suggestions? Many thanks in advance if you do!

Been having issues keeping her in first and found this on the jeepsunlimited.com (thanks to user marc1kim), thought it'd be useful to share. This info is only for the Aisin (AX5/15 5 speed manual) transmissions, not the BA-10 or AW4: *Pennzoil Syncromesh, and Royal Purple Synchromax are only recommended for the NV3550 and other NV trannys. (Not recommended for AX-5/AX-15). *Pennzoil has a GL4 lube, and Royal Purple recommends 10W40 motor oil for all 98 and newer jeep manual transmissions WITHOUT the NV trans. (Ax-5/Ax-15 fall in this category) *10W30 and (Jeeps recommended) GL-3 are roughly the same viscosity, and Gl-4 and 10W40 same viscosity as well. *All GL lubes have some kind of Sulfur content in them (needed for the High pressure Hypoid gears in rear ends, but not necessarily needed for most transmissions.) *Sulfur addadives react to brass internal parts. *GL-5 has twice the sulfur content of GL-4. *AX-5 and AX-15 are japanese manual transmissions, and the majority of manual Japanese transmission do not recommend the use of GL-5. because of the way it reacts to brass. *Red Line MTL is classified as a 70W80 gear lubricant satisfying the API Service requirements of GL-3 and GL-4. MTL also satisfies motor oil viscosities SAE 5W/10W/30, and the viscosity requirements for ATFs. *Redline MT-90 is a 75W90 GL-4 and also satisfies motor oil viscosities SAE 10W/15W/40. So it's safe to say: AX-5/AX-15 can use (synthetic?) 10W30, 10W40, GL-4, Or Redlines MT-90 or MTL and the New Venture transmissions Pennzoil Synchromesh, and Royal Purple Synchromax. Allthough I searched many website Here are some references with some good info: Good basic info and a mention of GL/ motor oil equivalents, and one mention of Japanese gear boxes. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_oil Viscosity chart: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/visc.html Gear Lube Definitions: http://www.finalube.com/reference_ma...tegories.h tm Redline MTL / MT-90 info and what they can substitute: http://www.roadraceengineering.com/p...-mtl-info.html And from the Amsoil website: "The difference in GL-4 and GL-5 is that GL-4 gear lubes have half the extreme pressure additives of GL-5. Because the gear types in manual transmissions do not necessitate the use of GL-5 gear lube, GL-4 is the correct recommendation called for by most OEM’s when gear lube is required." GL-4 definition: "This designation denotes lubricants intended for axles with spiral bevel gears operating under moderate to severe conditions of speed and load or axles with hypoid gears operating under moderate speeds and loads." - so GL-4 will have additives for the Hypoid Gears. And here's where it all comes home (and probably explains why Chrysler made the change): GL-3 Definition: "Gear lubricants designated for API GL-3 service are not intended for axles with hypoid gears. Some transmission and axle manufacturers specify API Category "CC" or "CD" motor oils for this service." note: "CC" and "CD" oils have been upgraded to newer designations and are equivalent to 15w40

I just purchased my first jeep an well I drove it home guy said no leaks I looked there was none to the naked eye. As soon as I pull in to car port. Low an behold a leak so I crawl under an notice it seems to be coming from where the tranny mates with the motor. Any ideas on how to fix this asap. Since I bought this Lil truck to be my work truck.

ok i have a 91 4wd 4.0 auto. I'm not sure what tranny i have. i recently did a 4.0 swop out of a 97 xj and ever scents then it occasionally acts like it bumps itsself into neutral i rev it up a bit and it knocks its self back into gear. it only does it when i come to a compete stop and it seem the harder i brake the more likely it is to do it. any idea what this is? I don't think its a tranny problem because wouldnt it mess up in other gears?

Hey guys I really need a manual 5 speed tranny quick and if anyone else has the small triangular vent windows with the locks lmk. Willing to pay good for both items. I'm located in central Florida but don't mind driving to wherever the parts are even if it means heading up a couple states.

I'm looking for an ax15 shifter, and only the shifter, though it has to include the 4-bolt mounting plate. If anyone's willing to bother with shipping to me, let me know the price and shipping price in a PM. Thank you much.

Bunch of transmission questions here. To start with, for anyone that might be able to help me, PLEASE chime in, I desperately need help. I picked up an MJ, an '87 4.0 that has a pugeot BA10/5 in it that was supposedly "seized". This was thought to be the case because the shifter won't move into ANY gear. The only play the stick has is what it gets in neutral. However, by turning the input shaft, I proved that it was indeed NOT seized, because when I turned the shaft, the front axle yoke(?) turned as well. So if anyone has any idea why this transmission isn't seized, but isn't able to shift, I would :bowdown: at your feet and kiss your toeses. Here's the only info I know about the transmission: it was obvious that someone tore into it before, and I'm wondering if there's something that the assembler missed :hmm: . Is there a clip that commonly breaks, a gear that's easy to mix up with another that won't allow it to shift, anything like that that anyone knows about :dunno: Also, other, more general questions: Who is the manufacturer of the AX transmissions? Also, I hear the pugeot tranny is crap, and the AX-15 is the best you can get. But I don't hear anything about the AX5. How does the AX5 measure up to the other two in quality? Oh, and If I were to (theoretically) go from a pugeot to the AX5, what has to be changed, and do I need to shorten/lengthen the rear driveshaft? Thank you very much for reading my post. It is getting very close to too cold outside to :wrench: on things here in Alaska, and I need things running before snow. Any help I can get is most welcome.

Hey guys, I was wondering if I could take a 1985 AM207 off an automatic cherokee, and put in on either a 1990 ax-15 (and if possible, is it worth it), or on a 1987 pukey. Also, if it could be done, and is worth it (meaning it's not a POS), would I have to change DS length? Thx guys. Oh, PS, how do you tell what year a transmission is? Thx

Does anyone have a DIY around for removing the tranny without removing the engine? I can't seem to find my service manual :oops:. I displaced it :doh: . Just don't know if it's actually possible to get all the Bell bolts out without moving the engine. The top bolts, if even possible, look like a serious FPITA to remove. FYI I believe it is a Pukegoat 5spd. Also, where the line from the master meets the tranny underneath, the short dead-ended 4in-or-so dead-end line is the bleeder correct? Just don't want to get anything wrong. Having to ask and getting correct info DOES beat making a stupid mistake, at the expense of sounding like a noob *sigh. Thx.