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Hello all, After numerous searches I am looking for some advice on replacing all 4 shocks. I'm just replacing to restore ride quality. Couple questions I have are: Is there any thing to look for before starting other than how rusty they are(thanks to lovely Minnesota)? Any procedures or certain ways to do things to save time and/or hassle? What most commonly breaks while removing the old shocks? What to do if I break a upper rear shock mount/stud?(looking pretty rusty have been soaking in JB-80) Please link any other posts or diy's I may have missed. Appreciate any help, and thanks in advance! -Cody

Figured I'd do an easy one for my first write up. I heard about using JK shocks on this forum, but couldn't find any real specific information. So here ya go! Any set of shocks from a JK will work. I chose to get some from a Rubicon, as they are gas charged, and it doesn't hurt that they are race car red. :yes: Takeoff JK shocks are pretty common, there are a LOT of people who lift their JK, and most have very few miles on them. First, let me give you guys some measurements so you can decide if they'll work for you: Front extended: 22.5 inches Rear extended: 23.125 (note: these upper rear bushings are NOT the correct ones I ended up using) Since I failed to get compressed lengths, here's some measurements hornbrod got from Monroe's website: Front: Compressed Length 14.020", Extended Length 21.930" Rear: Compressed Length 14.760", Extended Length 23.150" From what I've heard, they'll work for up to around 2 inches of lift. I have OME 2930 coils up front and 2wd leaves with a 1 inch lift shackle in the rear.

I did a SOA lift. I have the Rusty's RX300 reservoir shocks. The rear axle is a Chrysler 8.25 from an XJ, stripped of all of its mounts. So I need to weld new shock mounts. I'm debating on the changing the shock mounts, angle, and rotation. 1. Use original factory design. Weld shock mounts on axle same direction as the ones on the frame (parallel to axle) 2. Use factory top mounts, but weld new axle mount opposite direction of the factory top mounts. ( EX Top = __ and Bottom = | ) My reasoning is the shock will be able to tilt for flex, and tilt as the axle swings back as it goes up, due to the shackle. (obviously the bushing on the shock will allow that tilt, but limited) 3. make a new top shock mount and weld new mounts on axle, / \ something like that. I was also thinking of putting these on the factory top mounts to change the angle of the shock, http://lgcdn.jeep4x4center.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/t/e/teraflex-shock-mounting-bracket-TF-1514700-bm_1511.jpg There are a few threads on rear shock installs, but not a lot of pictures. anyone want to share pictures of their install? Lastly, when I started my thought possess, I was thinking the shaft of the shock should be at ~50% when the truck is static. However, after putting more thought on it, I'm thinking its best to have only ~20% to 25% of the shock when truck is static. Allowing for greater droop / drop. As an axle is flexed (such as putting a tire 12" high, and the other tire 10" lower), as the axle is flexed up, the whole truck also lifts in Saved Content I did a SOA lift. I have the Rusty's RX300 reservoir shocks. The rear axle is a Chrysler 8.25 from an XJ, stripped of all of its mounts. So I need to weld new shock mounts. I'm debating on the changing the shock mounts, angle, and rotation. 1. Use original factory design. Weld shock mounts on axle same direction as the ones on the frame (parallel to axle) 2. Use factory top mounts, but weld new axle mount opposite direction of the factory top mounts. ( EX Top = __ and Bottom = | ) My reasoning is the shock will be able to tilt for flex, and tilt as the axle swings back as it goes up, due to the shackle. (obviously the bushing on the shock will allow that tilt, but limited) 3. make a new top shock mount and weld new mounts on axle, / \ something like that. I was also thinking of putting these on the factory top mounts to change the angle of the shock, http://lgcdn.jeep4x4...700-bm_1511.jpg There are a few threads on rear shock installs, but not a lot of pictures. anyone want to share pictures of their install? Lastly, when I started my thought possess, I was thinking the shaft of the shock should be at ~50% when the truck is static. However, after putting more thought on it, I'm thinking its best to have only ~20% to 25% of the shock when truck is static. Allowing for greater droop / drop. As an axle is flexed (such as putting a tire 12" high, and the other tire 10" lower), as the axle is flexed up, the whole truck also lifts in proportion to the articulation. So having equal length on the shaft may not be optimal. Is this what most of you have done?

Does anyone know right off hand what the compressed and extended lengths for front shocks for an MJ/XJ with around 5 inches of lift?

Looking to replace the original front suspension components for my 88 comanche daily driver . Want to keep the stock ride height but increase the ride quality! Need to know what parts I need and if anybody has done this already and have any suggestions or tips. Only looking to replace the coils and shocks and maybe add a new steering stabilizer in the process

I replaced my shocks approx 6 months ago and have had no problems. Now out of the blue I am getting a loud clunking noise going over even the smallest bumps and I am at a loss. I think the noise is coming from the front. Its an 89 Pioneer long bed 4x4 etc. I have Monroe SensaTrac shocks all around. Any ideas on how to stop the noise. I have ehard about some lithium greese or something you can spray on them, but I don't know! Thanks!