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Search failed me - Is the electric speedometer on the HO more or less a standalone component, as in as long as you have the cluster and the little tach gen box that goes on the speedo drive and a couple wires it will work? Or does it integrate with something like the PCM/ECM/whatever other magical boxes and miles of wiring? I want to use one for a swap rather than a cable drive simply so I don't have to route a cable. It just seems like a better solution. Yes Hornbrod, I am admitting that certain Chrysler components are better.

I recently found that the block on one of my MJs is cracked!!!! :wall: I have been on CL everyday looked on a couple of pic a parts. I am finding that a block from the renix era is hard to find. I could have swore i have read on here or another forum about a putting a renix intake on a HO head. I don't really wanna change over but i am not able to find a engine. Could i bolt the renix head up to a later model block? or just my intake? Ive done went into crisis mode over this and asked the guys at the dodge place about it. Worthless!!!

Actually an XJ thing, but it's the same for what matters in this case. 89, Renix, 4.0L Factory exhaust is scabbed, broken, doesn't fit right, has a 'newer' catback on it that's totally rotten because it was bare steel. Anyways, Renix parts are always harder to come by, and seem to be a premium. So I was thinking I'd massage the intake and install this header: http://www.amazon.com/Wrangler-Cherokee-Performance-Stainless-Polished/dp/B00JA1BGYY?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A1F86TF7G43XA2 Any experience with it? Reading the reviews on Amazon is mixed. The flange thickness issue is well, an issue, but it can be dealt with by making some custom washers. Obviously there also isn't a bung for my O2 sensor, but on to that... Who makes a stainless downpipe, or 'front pipe' as it seems to be called by exhaust manufacturers, that will fit an HO and have the bung in it? Failing that, does anyone know what flange style can be bolted to an HO header? These maybe? http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/vpe-1471/overview/(they sell individually also) Is there a flare piece on Summit that will fit the needed donut gasket? Closest I think I can find is for 2.5" pipe: http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/vpe-2599/overview/ If I have to use that (if it would fit on the header and seal) I would neck it down to 2.25" right away. I do not have any issues with front driveshaft clearance but will have trouble fitting larger pipe from there back. Unfortunately 2.25" parts seem to be much rarer than 2.5". I can buy some U-bends and make the exhaust from the header back if I know what flange and flare will bolt up. Otherwise I'm at a bit of a loss. Buying a weld in bung for the O2 isn't a big deal. I can get everything from there back easily enough if I just buy normal universal parts. Yes, I can weld stainless well enough.

If you're anything like me, you just got back from the junkyard with a fresh batch of 136A upgrade alternators ready to kill in the mud. You just took them off the Dodge trucks because they're plentiful and right on top so they're easy to get. But in your haste, you grabbed the wrong alternator and your new one has a quick connect plug instead of the usual ring terminals. This isn't a problem. As long as you grabbed a quick connect pigtail, you're fine. If not, you can go back or try the dealer or ebay. I found one with a quick search for $17 - #RPT-52010. This is really easy wiring. They didn't even change half of it. Connect the green wire to the green wire, which goes to the PCM, and connect the other wire (colors may vary) to what you found next to the green wire. If your factory harness has a ground wire, ground it. Piece of cake. If it's your first time with the bigger alternator, you will need to introduce your grinder to your alternator bracket, upgrade your alternator V+ output wire, and you're golden. You don't need to grind a lot, it's not a big deal. Here's some diagrams and a photo of some alternators to grab some attention. Dodge 136A Alternators Typical stock wiring Dodge ALT plug

Please Help, I have a 91 MJ 4L HO with engine electrical issues. I will break it down for ease of ruling stuff out. Engine ran okay when purchased 2 months ago went to restore/build up on it. Tuned up engine New plugs (not platinum, standard plugs) New Wires New Fuel filter New Cap New Rotor Cut Cat Conv out, new 2 and 3/4"exhaust and muffler (not from jeep), Disconnected battery when I welded on new pipes to existing. Engine now idles fine but when put under load (in gear) backfires through throttle body, pukes oil/gas mixture into air box, plugs black, no power, Checked plugs/wires crossed multiple times, checked throttle position sensor, checked resistance on new wires, checked coil, checked under cap for arcing issues, checked seems like everything. Have multiple errors and most are Voltage to muliple sensors are above/below range. I can give a breakdown if that will help you guys? Could some of you more experienced guys tell me if you have had these issues, and where to look next. Fuel Injectors? Seem okay but all plugs are black on all cylinders. Timing out? How do you get back into time? Coil? could the coil be intermitent? would it cause same issues as an engine out of time? I have read that MJ 4L use the cam sensor for timing and that they "can"t go out of time?" Please Help