Tylerzap

A set of D44s from a 80 Waggy with manual hubs are also available to me, still in the Jeep. Plus cost of brakes, regear, mounts and everything.

So I've been looking into performing a full axle swap on my 88 MJ. Plan is DD (most of my trips are 3 miles or less) with 33/35s while being able to tow and trail ride. I have a few HPD30s, an 8.25 sitting in my garage with ZJ disk brakes. All 3.55, would have to get them regeared to 4.88s, and do the WJ knuckle swap on the D30. There's also a sleeved, trussed, JK D30 for sale with chromo shafts geared to 4.88s locally for $700, and then getting a 65 wms rear axle and have it regeared to match. I don't mind fab work. Wanted to know what yalls opinion was?

Bump. Checked everything. I'm lost. And since I swapped the flashers with my other Comanche, my hazards aren't working with a known good flasher. Diagrams aren't helping much either

Any suggestions anybody? Can find anything that looks wrong. It's been very frustrating.

I haven't had much time to mess with it since it happened, just a few minutes here and there. But after moving the brake light switch wires and a black/yellow wire connection last night, the turn signals no longer cut on when I brake. And as I said EVERYTHING else functions properly including hazards. So now my only issue is, my signals not working at all. Will try to get some pictures up soon

Alright so while digging around, I found its either the brake light switch wires near the connector, or the back/yellow wire. I'll mess with it more tomorrow AND yes it has trailer wiring

Thanks for yall's help so far. I went to take care of those wires. It is a total of 6 wires and they are all pink with no stripe and do run in the factory harness. Not getting power to it when I press my brakes with my test light or when turning on lights/blinkers, ect. So I belive it rules that out as being the problem. My turn signals are non functional from the stalk, however my high/lows wipers work. My Hazard lights are functioning perfectly.

Right!? It's definitely not an issue I have faced before. I'm assuming that where they hooked the wire to kill the cruise, when brakes are pressed, is contacting somewhere it shouldn't but I'm probably wrong. As far as the switch itself on the column, I do not believe I did anything to it or messed with any of its wiring.

Yes the front markers areally coming on. Nice and bright. Dash lights come on too. I will give the bulbs a try, however it seems to me the issue is related to how they had the unit wired as everything was working fine just before I disconnected the system

The only odd thing I've found so far. This is the main harness behind the cluster, far drivers side almost behind headlight switch. Was wrapped in electrival tape and didn't look factory to me

So yesterday I removed the aftermarket cruise control from my 88 MJ 4.0 5 speed. Appears to be a older Audiovox unit, although I couldnt find any markings. Took the unit and associted wiring out, didn't mess with/cut/unplug anything non relating to the system. Now when I hit the brake petal, my turn signals light up solid. All of them. Can anybody point me in the right direction of what to check? I just don't know where to start and couldn't find any info though searching. Thanks

Alright I will give it a shot.

It has brakes (not great but all 4 will lock on dirt), they will not build up with pumping, and no feeling whatsoever. Soft petal. Calipers are on right side up and I bench bled the master before I put it on

Left the original line that runs from the front of the combo valve and plugged the failsafe at the bottom of the combo valve. I ran new line behind the gas tank to the rear softline, about 1.5 feet. Brakes weren't great and then they just kind of "let go" one day and I've been trying to track what happened. Nothing I have already replaced has made it worse or better. There has to be a hole somewhere right? I just can't find where.

So i have a 1988 comanche 4.0 Brakes weren't great when I bought the truck, replaced a leaking wheel cylinder and bled. Brakes didnt completely go out but lost all pressure one day. So far, it has brand new: Wheel cylinders Brake shoes & pads Hardware kits Front soft lines Front calipers (2) Master cylinders I have also deleted the height sensing valve, and ran a new straight peice of hardline to the rear softline. Got rid of the failsafe line and plugged it. all brake lines are clean and rust free I bleed rr, lr, rf, lf No matter what I do they don't get better. I have used a solid 3 gallons of brake fluid through all this, bleeding the lines so much as needed, and there are no leaks. Only original parts are the booster, which is working fine, the hardlines from the master to the combo valve, and the ones from the combo valve to either front wheel. Like I said, no visible leaks and I have brake cleaned and searched alot. When you press the petal, it doesn't have any pressure against your foot. Like stepping into a bucket of water. But the brakes are working, just not at full capacity, will still lock all 4 on dirt. Help, please.

Thanks, ended up just using the new master on the old pushrod and adjusted it properly. Didn't see that much of a reason to fix something that isnt broke. Master still didn't help my problem even after all the other parts I've replaced. I'm lost on this brake problem, should probably start a new thread on it.

Hey yall, I'm having a bit of a problem. Went to install a new Dorman M105876 master cylinder that includes the push rod, however I can't seem to figure out how to get the original pushrod out from the brake petal side? It's disconnected from the petal and the switch is unplugged. Thank you!

why not mount the cell in the factory location?

96 XJs had OBDII and the older dash. If that's what you want to swap too.

Neohicbuilt? That some kind of new, up-and-coming bumper manufacturer? :hmm: That front end looks really good! All those little time consuming detail work stuff really makes a huge difference... I should probably finish that stuff on my '88. I wish it was! I love your bumpers. If you produced them I'd buy one. Anyways nice MJ man and long live the black interior. I know how careful you have to be with the black. Seems almost impossible to get replacements.

Well I was going to do some work today but its raining so I ain't going to be able to do much. I need to take apart the alternator and work on it or replace it then the motor goes back in.

Thanks man. I actually would but I don't have the extra money right now. Plus besides the bed I already got all the parts I need. I put in new motor mounts since the old were shot, and got a new valve cover gasket. Will put the motor back in soon. I'm trying to get this running first before body work. Also I'm trying to do this with as little money as I can but also do it right. Replacing parts when needed and when not needed reusing them. I keep changing ideas and plans so nothings set in stone but the XJ will have a pretty good bit of metal cut out. Rockers, A Pillars, and some other peices.

Engine is not in the truck right now. But I will keep that in mind. I just wanted to know how to get them off for when I reinstall the engine, but thank you.

Thanks man. Actually I have the engine completely out. No radiator or anything. It started to slightly bend so I just stopped and took the whole pump off and bent it back. Ill see about getting a new line.

Thanks. Thats what I originally thought but wanted a second opinion. I'm trying to save these lines as I'm trying to get this thing running for as cheap as I can for the time being, which means I don't want to replace parts that don't need it. Thank you.