HellCreek
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Everything posted by HellCreek
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Hard to say. Right after we got this, the fuel pump went out and it sat for about 5 years. We replaced the pump and tank about a year ago and cleaned the injectors and replaced the plugs and wires at the same time.
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I used these because of the usual sales hype, i.e., more expensive is better. I wish I had known that before I re-installed them. Doesn't the fact that they were in good shape after a year of running mean that they are o.k.? Also, if the plugs were in question, wouldn't the issue be more frequent than a month or two apart? Just sayin'. I had a '72 Plymouth Fury that had a bad plug wire that was shorting against the block, causing a missing issue. but it was a lot more regular than that.
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I pulled the plugs and they all looked the same and normal, according to the Haynes manual color pictures. The gaps on the plugs were .035. The plugs, by the way, were changed about a year ago with Bosch Platinum FR9HP. All of the plugs had a mild fuel odor, which, I think, would go along with the running-rich issue. While I had the plugs out I did a compression check with a screw-in gauge and got 130 psi on all cylinders, so we can rule out a blown head gasket or badly worn rings. Plus no oil on the plugs would indicate good rings, at least on the oil rings at the bottom of the pistons. Before I clean the plugs and re-install them, do I need to change them for any reason? I am going to install a new cap and rotor, just for the heck of it, even though this one appears to be o.k. By the way, Gogmorgo, the codes are 12 and 55. Is there a way to test the camshaft position sensor in the distributor? Thanks for all the help.
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I just replaced the O2 sensor yesterday. Since the problem is intermittent, I really can't tell if that fixed the surging problem, but I know it didn't fix the running-rich tail pipe odor. The windshield washer tank has been broken and dry since my son had the car (about 5 years), so I don't think that is the problem. I tested the TPS with an analog Volt meter, and it testes O.K. with a smooth, steady sweep, and the voltage was within specs. The CPS tested O.K. with an Ohm meter. How would one test the Cam position sensor? The MAP sensor tested O.K. with a volt meter using a vacuum pump as in Don's earlier post. The injectors were bench cleaned and tested about a year ago. I have not inspected the plugs yet, but I will do that next. In my experience, though, bad plugs or wires are usually not that intermittent. This vehicle might go a month without any problems and then mess up. Oh, and I also replaced the water temperature sensor (on the thermostat housing). So far I have used the shotgun approach, replacing parts and cleaning connectors. I would really like to find a solution to both these problems (surging and running rich) before I have replaced everything that can be replaced. By the way, the air filter is new also. Thanks, Tom
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Well, I replaced the O2 sensor, hoping it would eliminate the "rich burning" exhaust odor. It didn't. I also removed and cleaned the neutral safety switch, since I was having the no-start problem at times. Removing and replacing that thing is a major pain in the rear. Fortunately, I have small hands, but I could use another joint about midway of my palm. Between the exhaust and the transmission oil cooler tubes, there is simply no room to maneuver. I did discover a good way of indexing the NSS when re-installing. Put the transmission in Neutral and connect an ohm meter (analog is best) to the black and black-with-white-tracer wires in the connector, and when it does a full sweep, tighten the bolt. I'm not sure whether the O2 sensor fixed the stumbling and surging problem, but I am not encouraged, seeing that it did not cure the odor issue. Any thoughts?
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Thanks, Cruiser.
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The carrying capacity of our lifted springs, 3 and 4.5 inch are 1440 lbs.,which is shy of the 1725 lb. Metric Ton springs, but a lot more than the 760 lb. springs that came on my truck.
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Jason, I see you are an ASE certified Tech. Is the NTK O2 sensor a good brand, or should I look at something else?
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I don't have a scanner. Is there anything else that would make it emit a strong fuel odor? It smells like exhaust fumes and burns my eyes, slightly.
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I can get an NTK heated O2 sensor on Rock Auto for $24.00. Should I just go ahead and replace it?
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Hell Creek has not discontinued leafs. We are just not making them ourselves anymore. We closed our spring factory down at the end of 2012 because we could not operate the factory with a very limited number of volume customers. Our former customers preferred to find cheaper sources overseas. We have found another American spring manufacturer who uses our blue prints to make our leaf springs. They are a fourth generation spring company, like we were. We still offer the Comanche Club 10% discount by the way. Thanks, Tom
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Fuel pressure is 39 psi with the pressure regulator disconnected and 30 psi with the vacuum line connected. Spot on with the FSM. I recently replaced the fuel pump, rail and regulator.
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I can only find a O2 sensor heating circuit test in the FSM. How do you or can you fully test he O2 Sensor?
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I also checked the starter relay, which in this case is inside the power distribution center and not attached to the coil bracket as on my '89 MJ. I had to consult the wiring diagram in the FSM to find it.
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i disconnected the TCU and checked the connectors, and they were clean with no recessed pins or sockets. I re-checked the other critical connectors, i.e., TPS , IAC, O2, CPS, water temp sensor, MAP sensor with a vacuum gauge per Don's earlier post, and Air temp sensor and did the ohm tests as outlined in the FSM, and all checked within parameters. I removed the IAC to see if it was dirty, and it was clean. I then cranked the engine and it started right up (with the TCU still disconnected. I did notice a strong fuel odor, which I had noticed before but forgot to mention it. Could that be an indicator of the surging and missing problem? I also crawled under the vehicle and checked the position of the neutral safety switch, since I had the problem with it not cranking at the post office. Oh, I also checked the ECU connector and it was clean with no recessed posts or sockets.
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Got it.
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Tcu as well TCU?
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Those will be next. Thanks, guys. I changed the battery cables because the lead terminals were broken, and I wanted a good connection.
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I drove it today to go to the post office. It started fine, but when I pulled out into traffic, it started surging and running rough. I turned the engine off when I went inside the post office, and when I came out I couldn't start the engine. I turned the key, but no response from the starter. The fuel pump and the ABS pump were running. I thought the shift lever was not fully into Park, so I cycled the lever and still nothing. I did that about three more times, then tried to start it in Neutral. That time it started. The engine stuttered a little but then settled down and ran o.k. I also noticed that I could hear the fuel pump running as I was driving. I thought the fuel pump was supposed to quiet down after the engine started. So, long story short, what I have done so far has not fixed the problem.
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O.K. I checked the electrical connections, upgraded the fuel pump ground and confirmed that there were no loose connections or broken wires to the TPS and IAC. What's next?
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Thanks, Tex. I sent you a message response, but will post it here as well. I will check this out and let you know. Tom
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Hi, Cruiser, I did the first one. I printed out your Renix tips and have done them on both my '89 MJ and this '91 XJ. The XJ is a HO, though and not a Renix. I did not do the Fuel pump ground improvement, though, but that will be next.
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That's the real problem. There is no discernible rhyme or reason to the occurrences. it will happen in any weather, any engine temperature, idle and any rpm range, driving in heavy traffic or cruising down the highway, and not always in any of those conditions. As I said very intermittent.
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I thought that is where you were going on the washing thing, LOL O.K. I tested the voltage with a digital VOM and got 5 VDC at the constant tap and 0.75 VDC at the idle setting and 3.27 VDC at WOT. Then I hooked up the analog VOM and there were no fluctuations throughout the sweep. Then while tapping on the CPS with a screw driver handle, the sweep was smooth as well. Hi, Cruiser. The CPS harness is as shown in your diagram, and the wire is not laying on the exhaust manifold .
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Um, no. Why would I? If these engines will only run right after they have had a bath, then most of us are in real trouble. By the way, I mentioned earlier that this is my son's vehicle. He brought it to me to fix, because he was just dumping money into it at the mechanic's shop. They couldn't find the problem, because, as I said, it is very intermittent. He has been having this problem for a few months now. I have been working on it off and on for about a month, and the problem with the surging and missing has only happened once, but he doesn't want it back until it is reliable. I will be testing the throttle position sensor this afternoon and will let you know the results.