Jump to content

HellCreek

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    329

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by HellCreek

  1. HellCreek
    I just finished a test run with the blower on only with the selector set on Vent. Everything worked as it should, and when I finished I touched the blower circuit breaker, and it was not even warm. Evidently, the blower circuit is o.k. It is only when I switch the selector to A/C that the problem occurs and the breaker gets hot. Any suggestions?
  2. HellCreek
    This must be a factory setup. All of the wires are behind the dash. I would have to take the entire dash panel out of the truck in order to get to the wiring. The only wires visible are the ones going to the blower resistor and thermostat. I have to remove the radio and/or the A/C mode switch to get to this. I replaced the blower motor and relay (on the right fender well behind the coil) today and took it for a test drive. The problem persists. I checked the 30 amp circuit breaker (where the blower fuse normally is) and it was hot enough to burn my fingers. Something is drawing way too many amps. None of the wires that I could get to under the hood were hot, so it must be something under the dash.
  3. HellCreek
    While the problem was occurring, I switched the A/C control to "Vent" and the blower was still intermittent, which leads me to believe that the problem is with the blower or its wiring.
  4. HellCreek
    Where is the vacuum switch located? I want to check that. Also, how can you tell if the A/C is factory installed or dealer installed by looking at it?
  5. HellCreek
    I can take pictures with my phone, but I don't know how to get them to my computer. This definitely looks to be a factory installed A/C, though. The firewall holes (pass throughs) all have rolled edges. I have confirmed that the only things that stop working are the A/C clutch and the blower. Lights, turn signals, radio, gauges all work when the A/C cuts out. I have by-passed the low pressure switch with a jumper and eliminated that as a cause.
  6. HellCreek
    Hi, Cruiser, I refreshed the ground on the left fender under the washer fluid bottle. I also made a new blower ground per your instructions on the right fender. There was no change in the intermittent blower problem. It acts like a circuit breaker, as I said, or a loose connection - sometimes it stays on for a while, and sometimes it just goes on and off like flipping a switch or just stays off for a while. I also thought that by refreshing the ground the volt meter performance would be improved, but it wasn't. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks, Tom
  7. HellCreek
    Hi, Cruiser, I will do that. I have already done all of the other "Renix Tips". I have also noticed that the volt meter only registers about 10 volts max. When the lights are on or the blower is running, it drops to about 8 volts. I have had the alternator checked and did all of the "Renix Tips", especially the grounds. I might add that it has always performed in this manner, and I think that the volt meter is out of calibration or just bad. This is not the original gauge cluster because I replaced it with a full-gauge cluster shortly after I bought the truck.
  8. HellCreek
    That very well could be it. I changed the blower resistor block thinking the thermistor could be the issue with no change in the problem. I have routinely turned the ignition key counter-clockwise after starting the truck because the spring does not return it to allow the accessories or gauges to run, but I have done that since I owned the truck in 2005. Also, when the problem occurs, the gauges still work, and I have confirmed that the radio does not shut off. The on-off problem also happens quicker with the A/C on "Max" then it does on "Norm." I have also confirmed that there is a 30 amp breaker where the blower fuse should go. I'm thinking that something is drawing too many amps. I might add that the blower has been replaced.
  9. HellCreek
    Hi, Cruiser54, I'm not sure. I don't play the radio very much, and it usually goes out when I am on the highway, so I am not using my turn signals. Next time this happens, I will try to activate them. The A/C works normally for a while then cuts off after a few miles. Like I said earlier, it acts like a circuit breaker has tripped, although at times it comes back on right away - too soon for a breaker to reset, and sometimes it stays off for several miles (or minutes). With a 2.5L I can tell when it cuts off and back on, and I hear the relay click when it does both. The duration of the on-off cycle is random. Thanks, Tom
  10. HellCreek
    This is a factory installed A/C. I will check the blower fuse, thanks. I also hear a relay click on and off when this happens. The relay must be near the firewall, since I can hear it while I am driving. Also on these 2.5L engines, I believe there is a vacuum cutoff that allows more power when accelerating. My A/C always goes off when I pass or climb a hill.
  11. HellCreek
    I have taken the dash apart and checked the A/C controller. The wires and connectors were in good shape - not burned. I took the switches apart (you can do that if you are careful) and cleaned them and re-greased them with dielectric grease. I bought a new blower motor resistor because it has a thermistor, but I haven't installed it yet. I also checked the low pressure switch and installed new connectors on the wires, since they were not making good contact with the switch. I can't figure out why the blower motor would shut down with the compressor, since it doesn't come back on when I change the setting to vent or heat. As I said, it comes back on by itself and then shuts off and on like a circuit breaker resetting itself.
  12. HellCreek
    Has anyone run into this problem before and come up with a solution? I turn on my A/C with the blower on high and everything works correctly. After about 10 to 15 minutes of driving the blower shuts off and also the A/C compressor. Note: I have a 2.5L engine, so I can tell if the compressor is running or not. Then after a little while everything turns back on and all is good - for a little while more, then it happen again. When the system runs, the air is cold, and I have just had the system recharged professionally with no leaks reported. It acts like there is a circuit breaker in the wiring, but the diagram doesn't show one. Any ideas?
  13. HellCreek
    It is a Delphi. The first one that I installed was a Precision from O'Reilly's, but the little hose blew off that one. I installed hose clamps on the Delphi. I did a pressure check at the fuel rail shortly after I posted to this thread, and the readings were spot on to the specs.
  14. HellCreek
    Well, the surging problem seems to have been fixed, though I am not completely sure, since it is intermittent. Thanks for all of the help on this. I do have one more question: the fuel pump is very loud, even driving down the road. Is that normal? I thought that the ballast resistor had something to do with quieting it down once the engine was running or something.
  15. HellCreek
    Fuel Pressure regulator is new as is the fuel rail - all new o-rings. Have I mention that this was an exhaust odor and not coming from the engine bay?
  16. HellCreek
    Replacing everything is what I have been doing. I have not replaced the coil , yet, but wires and plugs have been changed. I cannot see any fuel leaks. The exhaust odor is not really like Raw Gasoline, such as you would smell at the pump when filling the tank. It is more like you said, "incomplete combustion". putting it a different way, if I lived in California, it would not pass the emission tests.
  17. HellCreek
    As I said, I don't have a scanner? for this engine or anything older than OBDII. The exhaust appears to be ok. The battery was disconnected while I was working on the engine. It is too early to tell if the plugs fixed the intermittent stumbling problem. I only changed them about a week ago, and I have driven it once since then.
  18. HellCreek
    Ok, you've lost me.
  19. HellCreek
    I don't have an engine scanner for a 1991 HO engine. The key method with the Check Engine Light shows codes 55 and 12. The O2 sensor was changed about 2 weeks ago. How do you check for an Open/Closed Loop? Thanks, Tom
  20. HellCreek
    So are we done? Is there anything left to check?
  21. HellCreek
    What are we looking for? It runs fairly quiet, so i don't think there are any holes. I'm not sure how old the Cat is.
  22. HellCreek
    I have done all of them.
  23. HellCreek
    I finally got around to changing the plugs; thanks for the suggestions. I really can't tell if the intermittent surging problem is fixed, yet, as it doesn't happen all the time, but the strong exhaust odor is still present. Is there any way to get these engines to run a little leaner?
  24. HellCreek
    Yes, I did - the second time. The first time it blew off. I always preferred Autolite. No reason, just had good luck with them.
  25. HellCreek
    O.K. What brand and part number (heat range) plugs should I get? Getting the wrong heat range would probably be as bad as keeping the platinum plugs.
×
×
  • Create New...