xipantera31ix

Mine is split rear, and I am reusing it. The problem is that it leaks because some mentally challenged individual didnt use the PU glue, they used some black $#!& that highly resembles black rtv, and WAY too much of it too. I destroyed the molding strip trying to get it off because it too was firmly glued in place, so ill have to come up with something for placement, probably some 3/8" shims for now unless I can locate a good seal either new or used. I doubt highly that this is available anymore from the dealer, but ill check. Anyone know if there are any aftermarket ones available?

ok ill let you guys know how it turns out tonight

how does the trim seal come off? just pull it?

If the pigeons are always in flight , then yes if not then no Nevermind! The pigeons flapping to stay in the air will put the same amount of downward force on the plane as if they were landed.... stupid mythbusters.... :D

How do you remove the rear window? At some point, my rear window was replaced and wasnt sealed correctly, so now I have to redo it. How do I get it out without breaking it?

If the pigeons are always in flight , then yes if not then no

oh, almost forgot to add, there won't be any fluid leaking from your tranny, on a 4wd, your driveshaft feeds power off of the transfer case, but I don't know if that would leak. My guess would be yes... so I don't know if the best solution would be to leave the yoke and stub shaft in the case or pull it out. Kinda depends how far you're going i guess :brows:

definitely remove the driveshaft and fwd it home. I toasted the spider gears in my d35 a few years back and just removed the driveshaft and limped it home. You will be shocked how easily you can smoke the front tires lol

Well I am not willing to pay the fine for having one on the MJ, so you'd be wrong if you were guessing that. I could stick them to my wife.... j/k baby, if your reading this I love you! ;) They will probably go on a fridge or something, nothing too exciting. it would be cool for about the first week til you got caught lol

Can I take a guess as to where those explosives stickers are going? lmao :cheers:

Am I pulling the inner section of the fuse box? Is it just the 2 mounting screws? Any tips/ tricks?

Am I pulling the inner section of the fuse box? Is it just the 2 mounting screws? Any tips/ tricks?

Am I pulling the inner section of the fuse box? Is it just the 2 mounting screws? Any tips/ tricks?

I believe you mean my master cylinder (on the firewall) and yes, I just replaced it because it was leaking, and I replaced the fuses because they were corroded. How should I clean up the corrosion? Pull the fuse block?

Its a 5 speed, and the flasher was tested. Ill check all the grounds out, and I really hope I get this fixed soon, All I need is a front bumper since I decided the factory one isnt quite jeep enough for me, as well as this clusterf&%* and it can be inspected, re-geared, and trail ready. I'm shooting for memorial day to get it all finished :USAflag:

Ok thank you! I will check it out soon. I don't know if it makes a difference, but my front turn signals are out as well as the rears. Could it possibly be because of a backfeed from the rear ground being out as well?

where is that ground located? I'm assuming on the bed somewhere....

Like the title says, my backup lights and turn signals don't work. I have done a bit of troubleshooting but to no avail so far. I have power to the fuse circuit, none at the flasher and none at the light sockets. I have replaced the directional switch, headlight switch, all fuses, flasher, checked all bulbs, nothing. Can anyone help isolate this a little bit more as to where to look for where it could be messed up? Any ideas?

rustys :nuts: has fiberglass flared bedsides for $160 a pop

They are 4x6 plates.

I bought the vacuum brake bleeder at harbor freight for $25, and bled all of my brake lines and clutch line with it. All you do is slightly loosen the bleeder screw, put enough fluid in to go over the hose, then pump it to about 25lb of vacuum, open the screw SLOWLY until the gauge begins to drop slow, and keep pumping it until you don't see any bubbles coming out of the tube, then tighten. You can't use it for ABS, but without ABS, it works perfect everytime. It is also alot easier if you wrap some teflon tape around the bleeder screw so that air can't leak through the threads. The manual method without the vac pump is easy too, the clutch can be done easily by yourself because you can push the clutch pedal and turn the bleeder with your hands. Just make sure that you pump slowly, hold it (the pedal) down about half way, open the bleeder slowly(watching for bubbles to stop) and close it before it bottoms out. I have never had trouble bleeding the clutch hydraulic system using this method. If this soesnt work, you probably have a leaky slave cylinder.