Knucklehead97

I've got brand new brakes all around. I pumped the calipers back up with the fluid cap off to get the air out. I'll try bleeding them when I get the chance. How do I adjust them? I didn't know you could. And I've been searching for a dirt road with a hill, nearby, just so I can do so :D

Oh and does anyone elses brake pedal go almost all the way to the floor before it actually really starts to brake?

I'm deffinetely eventually going to be installing a XJ center console with buckets and handbrake. I've gotten good at not riding the clutch and keeping my hand off the shifter. Tomorrow I'm hopefully fixing my gas leak and working with my battery cables some. Then I should be good for some practice. Could someone point me towards a complete positive side battery cable kit thats cheap? Does'nt matter how good quality. I just need it to work till I get my welding cable ones built. Thanks for all the tips guys.

That is actually very nice. After the concept idea for a new Cherokee, I was scared of what their new truck would look like. But I like that alot. It's kinda a mix of a Comanche and J10 if you look look at it correctly. If that or the 2005 "Gladiator" concept (the actual Wrangler pickup which had a decent sized bed and extended cab. Instead of these little half cab "pickup trucks") were to be put into production. I would be very happy

I had been trying the letting off the clutch slowly then swapping from the brake to the gas, it takes some practice for sure. My brother in law said how he does it is keeping them on the clutch and brake and then using the heel of his brake foot to start the gas as he lets off the brake and clutch (I was going to try that next chance I got) my E brake works great, but the handle still flys past where its supposed to stop when you let it off. But I guess I'm gonna find me a secluded up-hill dirt road once I get my battery cables and fuel leak fixed. Thanks guys :D

Well since my MJ is the first manual transmission I've ever really had the pleasure of messing with. Its taken me some time to figure out how to drive one. I have gotten everything pretty downpat and love driving it but theres one thing I haven't figured out... Starting up hills. Like not cranking the truck. Going into first gear while up hill. I roll back and just haven't found out the trick to it. I was hoping you guys could give me some tips and tricks on how you manage to do it, so I can start driving it more places :D Thanks.

Same thing just happened to mine today... lost 40 bucks worth of gas last night -.- is there not a way to seal it other than finding a whole new unit?

Mines done the same since before I bought it. I've been told that its a short, or bad ground. But I think its the gauge cluster personally. Mine never goes under full. Even when the trucks off. It actually is over full on top of that screw. I posted because I'm interested in figuring mine out as well :D

Oh and a quick question. What is every little thing possible that I can do to increase engine life and gas mileage?

I believe so. Does the MAP sensor have a green plug on the bottom?

Got it found out. A vaccum line over beside the firewall ground was out. It needs new rubber on all the lines, so thats soon. And battery cables. And it seems refreshing the grounds fixed my dying out when pressing in the clutch to turn :D runs good for now. Thanks guys

Ah. Well I'm thinking its I bumped a vaccuum line or something. It literally ran perfect before I started everything. So I'll check all and update tomorrow

What are 703's? Lol

Thank God on the diff weight oil part. I was scared it woould have an effect on the engine. It does make since that I might've knocked something loose working on the grounds. I guess tomorrow I run a comeplete line connection check. Hopefully it'll run fine after that. I revved the engine to about 2000 rpms last time I cranked it. And it didnt seem to run bad when I gave it gas, but went back to bad when it was idling again.

Well I added a quart of 10w-30 to my truck since it was low. Then I started refreshing grounds around the engine. I cleaned up the one thats a weird wire web, but only the frame side because I couldnt get the engine one off. Then I cleaned up the engine one behind the oil dipstick. Please note it ran fine right before I started working on it. But now its got a extremely rough idle and I'm scared the PO might of used a different weight oil. I really can't afford a new engine so please tell me this is just a bad sensor or ground or something >.<

I'm gonna pick me up a quart of 10w30 to hold me off till I'm 100% sure its the rms. Anybody got tips for changing it out?

I'm deffinetely not going to be paying someone upwards of 500 for it. So this'll be my first big job on the truck. Till I'm 100% sure its the rms, what weight oil does a 89 4.0 take? I don't have my users manual

Ive already checked pretty good and it does seem to be the rms. Ive got to get to a pressyre wash to get everything really cleaned up, but all those places look pretty okay.

I know for sure that a 4.0 RMS can be changed by dropping the oil pan instead of removing the tranny. the 2.5 has to have the tranny dropped, I believe. I don't know about the 2.8. If a shop was to charge that much then Id deff do it myself.

I've had a pretty good oil leak since I bought the truck. It only leaks when the trucks running though. So I cleaned the engine as much as I could with my trusty garden hose. Then cranked the engine and left itrunning a bit. Came back with a flashlight and went to searching. It does seem to be running from the RMS place. I was just wondering if the RMS only leaks when the engine is running, if not then what would seem like a RMS leak but wasn't? Also how much would a shop averagely charge to change it out and how hard would it be to do it myself? Thanks.

I have 30x9.50r15 courser MTs on my stock height. Doesnt rub at all and gives a nice look to the front.

That explains alot about why the linkage parts i actually have, didnt seem to work or line up. Gonna get that swapped over and get the last linkage piece from a junkyard soon.

here's another thing ive been wondering. Is the lever on the t-case supposed to be more so pointing up in all the selections? My father had done some stuff to the truck and i didny know what, i think he was working on a upward pointing lever to make a stronger linkage, i just don't know if he actually ever made the lever point a different way. Thanks

I think I'm gonna find neutral, that will tell which is 4l cause itll be the next one. Then just go the opposite way till it stops and it should be 2h. I think at least

I feel so stupid right now -.- thanks alot Alexia. Nowjust to find the actual 2wd spot so it isnt running 4wd. Comepletely forgot which way the tcase linkage started