Knucklehead97

Okay guys I've recently been noticing that I've really got bad gas mileage. I had 160 miles on the trip when I added 15 gallons to it yesterday. I think I fixed the rough idle, need to get some vacuum line bushings though. I shift at 2300 rpms (to high? To low?) I'm running 30x9.50 mud tires on stock gears, could this result in anything? Ive got idle adjusted to about 800 rpms. Ive got new muffler with no cat on stock pipes. But a small exhaust leak hole (waiting till I repipe to 2.5" before I fix that) and Ive still got my bad rms leak. 4.0/ba10/4x4 with 224k miles. Please give me every little thing that could be causing this because I can't afford the gas. Should I readjust the TPS?

Ah, deffinetely not Rustys. Actually way better looking with the properly sized stinger >.> but thanks for the pics :D

Is that a Rustys Offroad front stinger winch bumper? I've been stuck between getting that or the Prerunner for quite awhile. If you don't mind, I'd love to see what it looks like from all different angles :D but great looking manche dude!

Its not a manual. Its a auto, but the PO ripped off the wiring so now you have to shift manually. I'm working on figuring out the wiring

Eh I'll just try to tap it or ducttape it instead of risking it. Ive just gotta hurry and get all his transmission problems figured out so he can get back on the road and I can start my RMS replacement and brake adjustment >.<

I'm going to fix the hole asap. Its just the question of if it would completely mess everyrhing up if it was left out for a bit.

Thanks! And does one bolt on the pan really matter? I mean all the others tighten down perfectly. Also what is the recommended torque for the bolts?

I also recommend checking your cat and muffler on the exhaust. I was having a kinda similiar problem and it ended up being the truck not being able to breath from a exploded cat and puffed up muffler. Hope this helps.

We got the kit and started to work. An figured out the bolts had been tightened to much and cracked the gasket. And one bolt was stripped. The thing is, the threads on the transmission side are stripped... what can we do about this?

Theres a transmission fluid filter and vent? How hard are they to change amd how much?

What could make a AW4 which only shifts manually currently, blow a tranny fluid pan gasket? Today my brother was driving his XJ and after about 30 miles of on and off driving, a big puff of smoke blew out and we checked and he's out of tranny fluid because the gasket off the pan blew and sprayed right on the exhaust. Ran fine still though, he was a mile from our house so he just took it on home and it had no problem.

Alabama thankfully don't have emissions. Cat's take away to much air flow

Kinda hard to get a vehicle as an unemployed 16 year old xD The cat was literally exploded inside. And the muffler was puffed out from lack of air flow. And I have an oil leak coming from my filter, drops right on the starter. I just have to get one place welded and its done.

Everything seems fixed now. The copper plates inside the starter were gunked up. Starts perfectly now. And the clogged exhaust is what made it die out. Goes straight back to 750 rpms when I press the clutch in. And I really recomend the Thrush welded muffler, sounds gorgeous! Thanks for all the help guys :D

Got the exhaust finally installed completely. Today I'm hopefully pulling the starter to check every connection. I just hope I can get it to crank so I can see how it runs with new pipes

We've tightenes the wires and nothing still. Could that solenoid like thing be blown? Wheres the cps and how can I test it?

I just got rid of my old cat and muffler. Now sporting a thrush welded and no cat. The cat was literally exploded on the inside and the muffler could hardly breathe. I'm thinking this was part of the dying out. I'm working on the cranking problem tomorrow. So I can actually hear the exhaust. When I try to crank it, tick comes from the relay that the small positive battery cable goes to. Could this be why its not cranking? Otherwise I think its the ground wire on the starter.

Its MY only truck. But I can drive my moms Jeep. If I wiggle wires correctly it will crank. The only thing I'm REALLY wanting to figure out currently is the dying out

I'm doing dark OD green with black around the the trim. But back on topic. I adjusted the tps to .83 (calculated and that is correct for mine) and it idles a little better. But still dies out when going to high rpms to nothing... so what else should I be doing? But now I can't even get the truck to start again cause of problems getting power to the starter >.< I'm thinking battery cables. But on the dying out, what should I do?

I understand it now. Thanks! I'm thinking some of it might be vaccuum lines too. By the way, I love the color of your truck! Its a great camo job

But how do I read the volts with it plugged in? If I unplug the plug, then won't twisting it not do anything to the volts till its plugged in? Sorry if I sound like an idiot, but its confused me

Could someone please explain the tps adjustment? Ive checked it and all with my multimeter (5.045 V A and B prong. .3V B and C prong. Yes I know its nowhere near 17%) but I cannot figure out how to adjust it. And I've been meaning to straightpipe my exhaust, anyway to check if theres a clog? And also, when I rev my engine to 2-3000 rpms just sitting. It dies out when I let off. So IAC not acting fast enough?

Hmm. I thought the comeplete opposite. Good to know

Ive cleaned the IAC three times with no resilts. And refreshed my grounds, which at first I thought work, but it didn't. Now it stutters at idle and dies out whenever I go to turn and press the clutch in. Should I buy a new IAC? Is there anyway to be sure that it is the IAC before I buy it? I really need this figured out. Thanks

Once I get my oil leak fixed, I will be doing regular oil changes. I was thinking injectors, new etter breathing exhaust with no cat to grt clogged up, a new intake (cone filter, probably cold air too), and eventually a bored out throttle body.