goldtooth

i am running 31's and 3.07's now and think it is decent. not like my grand with the v8 and 4.88s but i can climb most hills in 5th gear. nathan

i've had good luck with doetsch tech

yea the tj should be a low pinion and will bolt in. the rear is easy, torch off brackets, weld on spring perches. staying sua.

anyone running this combo with the 4.0HO? looking to put on the 4" lift and want to run some 32" bfg at's but don't really want to regear these axles. i did find a d30/ d35 combo from a 98 tj with 4.10s and a limited slip for $350 that i might pick up for now. long term plans would be a d44/9" like i had in my zj. nathan

well, got a lot done this weekend. the factory exhaust manifold had the standard crack at the collector welds so i picked up a banks header copy from apn for $140 shipped including the gaskets. i ordered it wed and it showed up friday! figured if i am replacing the exhaust mani i might as well replace the motor mounts to help keep the new mani from cracking. i also replaced the leaky valve cover gasket. while it was off, i cleaned out all of the sludge on the inside and in the breather holes. man was it plugged! the inside was bad as was the intake runners. fully cleaned out the intake and throttle body as well as the intake holes in the head. changed the oil cause the filter body has to be moved to replace the passenger side motor mount. i did manage to crack the heater valve in the process (it was very brittle) and will replace it after christmas. oh i also rebuilt the wiper linkage. busy day! next is the spray in bedliner coolant hoses. nathan

agreed. my wife drove it for the first time since the booster swap and said it is like driving a whole new truck. nathan

If you had to do the above, you should have used the 95-96 master/booster because it would not have been necessary. The 95-96 combo has a 1/4" aluminum spacer plate & gasket which snugs right up to your existing 91 firewall w. no leaks. No mods necessary for the pedal either, bolts right on using the existing clip. if you read the post right above your first one, that was my plan but i could not find one at the right price. for a newer booster/mc, i will bend a little sheet metal. :cheers: nathan

that was my original plan, but had a hard time finding the right booster. this one just happend to come up at the right time and right price so i bought it and i am very happy i did. nathan

when i built up my zj, i used the factory booster/ mc with ford dana 44 front calipers/rotors and lincoln mark VII rear calipers and it stopped pretty good with 36" swampers. nathan

in case someone isn't folowing my brake saga, here is what i did to fix it. i swapped out the booster/mc with one from a 99 wj. it was as easy of a bolt in as could be. the brake rod was the same length as was the hole for the pedal. i used some washers to space out the booster from the firewall a little and did a little bending of some sheet metal. used the brake lines that came with the master and re-flared the ends to match the xj prop valve. bled the brakes and the pedal feels amazing, much better then when the jeep was new. i have just a little air trapped still but with a re-bleed with a buddy and the brakes will be dialed. i picked up the booster/mc from ebay from a guy parting out a 99 wj for $50 shipped to my house. it also came with the abs unit which i am going to try and resell. Image Not Found got the idea from here- http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/brakes ... /index.htm i didn't have to do any of the pedal rod mods like he did though. i will give an update in a few days. nathan

well now that i have the brakes figured out, time to start the rest of stuff. need to fix the wiper linkage to keep it from hitting the bottom of the windshield and then stop up 4" on the window. anyone know where to get the plastic sockets on the linkage? then i will replace the door rubber mouldings and headliner and do some spray in bedliner. then will come 1-2" more of lift and some 31" bfg at's or toyo mt's. i'll kep you updated! nathan

well i think i fixed the brakes, pretty major overhaul though. i swapped out the booster/mc with one from a 99 wj. it was as easy of a bolt in as could be. the brake rod was the same length as was the hole for the pedal. i used some washers to space out the booster from the firewall a little and did a little bending of some sheet metal. used the brake lines that came with the master and re-flared the ends to match the xj prop valve. bled the brakes and the pedal feels amazing, much better then when the jeep was new. i have just a little air trapped still but with a re-bleed with a buddy and the brakes will be dialed. i picked up the booster/mc from ebay from a guy parting out a 99 wj for $50 shipped to my house. it also came with the abs unit which i am going to try and resell. Image Not Found got the idea from here- http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/brakes ... /index.htm i didn't have to do any of the pedal rod mods like he did though. i will give an update in a few days. nathan

family priorities. we had twins and the grand was getting small and not being used much. not much time for wheelin so it just sat there. i can always build something else, that is the fun part anyways. nathan if i were to buy any van it would be a 4wd econoline with a powerstroke and i would wheel moab yeah but my families comfort is more important than my wheelin needs. my offroading is consisting of downhill mountain biking these days and the mj is the perfect shuttle truck. you never know how the mj will end up though :D nathan

family priorities. we had twins and the grand was getting small and not being used much. not much time for wheelin so it just sat there. i can always build something else, that is the fun part anyways. nathan

Here is the current state with a 2" lift and 31"s Gonna lift it another inch and put some newer 31" BFG ATs and basically do a restore. My father bought it new in 91 and we have had it in the family since. Now if I could just get the brakes to work better! Here are a few pics on my last project- 1994 ZJ with 9" and HP44 on 36" swampers. Sold it last year so we could buy a VW Eurovan. Nathan

well, i took apart the prop valve and made sure it was clean. looked good and everything moved like it should. put it back in and took out the mc and bench bled it again. did have some small bubbles come out of the front circuit. reinstalled everything and bled (no vaccuum pump this time). brakes feel the same as before. i think the mc may just be bad again?? i am not going to replace it unless i can get a 95 xj dual diaphram or swap to the wj one. this is driving me crazy as i want to start moding the mj but gotta get it to stop right first. nathan

? no, the rubber lines have not been replaced. i can look into replacing the front lines but it would seem like mashing the pedal would not cause the pedal to feel ok if the lines were bad. they are pretty cheap though and i will replace them for good measure. nathan

thanks i believe the front and back lines use specific sizes so you can't mix them up. nathan

yeah, the brake booster is the only original part left in the system. anyone know of a 95 xj booster around? what is this about the grand marquis? nathan

well to test the theory of the stuck prop valve, i replumbed around it. hooked the rear brake right up to the mc and used a splitter to go from the mc to the front calipers. bled the brakes and there was no change (besides being able to lock up the rear brakes at will). something is up with the front brake circuit. new calipers new mc pedal feels good when mashed or pumped. goes to the floor when pushed normal. time for a 95xj mc and booster? nathan

i cleaned it but did not disassemble it. can they be taken apart and cleaned out? maybe i should just get the summit racing adj prop valve and try that. nathan

3 times though?

1991 mj 4.0 4wd replaced: mc- 3 times (bench bled each time) calipers (yes they are on the correct way, bleeders up) wheel cylinders (shoes adjusted) swapped to xj prop valve and eliminated rear valve bled and bled with vaccuum bleeder and with a second person. bleeding is being done right and have been doing it for 15+ years. the pedal feels ok when the truck is off. when started it goes to the floor when pushed slowly but when mashed, it feels ok. if you pump the pedal it also feels solid which seems like there is air in the lines. when driving, if i mash on it, the pedal feels solid but does not stop all that quick. when pushed normal, the truck slows down but the pedal goes through the entire stroke fairly quickly. should i take it in to get a pro to bleed it? running out of ideas here. i have gone through a few bottles of brake fluid thanks nathan