Southen Crawlin

what about the STS all terrain? its supposed to be good in sand. I'm in florida where theyres mostly mud and dry trails. ive never seen them perform but wanna hear from those whove seen them in action.

you picked one of the fastest wearing tires ive seen. the 34 LTB's on a friends wrangler only managed to last 15k miles and they aint cheap. if you ask me theyre not good for annything. id reccomend anny bfg tire or the maxxis bighorn radial as they are cheap and last about 50k miles like the bfg's are supposed to do. note on the mud rovers. they are easy to puncture the side walls, but if your not going annywhere thats got stuff able to puncture a tire then id definetly consider them.

That's pretty good, actually. The POS Chinese TRE on my Rusty's adjustable track bar lasted less than 4,000 miles before the truck was uncontrollable on the highway. mine lasted about 1k highway miles then it literaly broke and the axle began to move to a side and the jeep would follow it. thankfully i had stock bushings and not heims, side movement was limited enough that i didnt crash. i also have a rock krawler Track bar (wich i didnt think was that great) and it weighed nearly twice what the rustys one weighs. but i got a TNT customs trackbar put on and wow is this thing a beast. rubber bushings are great!

oh i just lost controll of a certain bodily function. ur mj is what i want mine to be. :bowdown:

i got 8in lift and 34's currently. theyres about 1.5ft of space between the top of the tire and the uncut fenders. the real problem ur gonna have is with the front fenders. my 34's rub the back inside of them w/o turning so imagine how much 36's will rub.

i ran a hushpower II with no cat on the TJ with the I6 and it sounded like crap. flowmaster classic 40 sounded good at idle and like a ricer when rps rise. removing the muffler and leaving the cat sounds just like a ricer, like a fart machine. a stock muffler will give a louder tone but doesnt make it sound like a ricer and is quiet enough to be a hunting vehicle (running this setup on my TJ, its not bad). my mj is straight pipes and though loud, it sounds ten times better than all the trucks at my school.

well i picked it up last weekend. needs the work that i allready knew of. not only needs a sensor replaced to be street ready. this weekend I'm cutting up the front end of the frame and moving the steering box foward, extending the shaft from the box to the wheel. doing bracing on the frame where a section is being added to give it somemore strength. also gonna ditch the stock cast iron track bar mount and make one from 1/2in thick steel when it gets moved. i have all the metal needed except for the pice to extent the steering shaft. gotta get that sometime before the weekend. i havent decided on wether ill mig weld it or arc weld it. I'm pretty dang good at both so ill decide later this week. i think I'm gonna get a full width 8lug 44 or 60 from a ford when one shows up at the local pick and pull instead of running the waggy 44. glad yall mentioned the steering issue on that. i think i got a good deal on it (900$) considering it came with 1/4tread tsl's on rims that cost 800$ with their accesories and stock rims with brand new 30" bfg at's. i kinda bought tires and rims and the truck came with them, lol just a bonus to the project.

so theyd do the opposite of what i want...... oh well ill just have to move the axle mounts back i guess.

and a side note on the amc 20 u were looking at. it is stronger than the D44 if you do the one peice axle conversion and its the width your looking for. but if money is a big player in the axle swap then the D44 is probly good enough.

the mj I'm picking up has stock rear springs with soa and some other stuff. my question is will stock XJ springs lower, raise, or keep the same height and will they move the axle back at all. I'm wondering this since i want to move the axle back a few inches, lift it more, and i allready have stock xj springs.

this link should help ya id'ing the axle your looking for. http://coloradok5.com/axleguide.shtml it helped me find the rear axle i want. Ford 10.25 :D

if theyre was one at the local pick n pull then id do that. but the only solid front axle w/o vacume disco was the waggy 44. i was told to get the ford 44 outers but if i find one ill grab the whole stinking thing. the only true final plan is what actually happens.

this is the project heep. my 87MJ named 4J/F in memory of my best friend who died this year. current pics and description: 4.0, 2wd, D30 front, 8.25 rear, custom steering and track bar, custom front bumper, 8in lift. plans: D44front from waggy , lincoln locked, 5.13's AMC 20 rear some locker, 5.13's front axle moved foward 2-4in put XJ lift springs in front to make 10in lift and 2in spacers added if rear is over 10in add rustys 4in lift springs and move down to 1in lift blocks put TJ fender flares on and trim to 1/5in lip get AW4 with 231 attached from a cherroke cage the rear but not overkill, and a low profile exocage over the cab and hood run the exhaust system fix the A/C and heater for comfortable wheeling strengthen the unibody build custom rear bumper and tow points build custom 4 link up front make 4or 5 point seat harnesses for driver and passenger while keeping the bucket seat make shure the rear cage allows the tool box to stay in get 15 or 16 in beadlocks and 38 or 39 in tires(irocks or maby a maxxis tire) ill get them slightly used to cut down on the cost some so i can't be shure of what tire ill be running. i allready have the front 44 and I'm working on cleading it up and sometime soon ill go pull the rear ford 10.25 from the local pick and pull assuming a D80 doesnt show up before i get the 10.25. progress pictures will popup when progress is made.