mjstiltheydie

I do not know what is broke yet. Loud clunking in all gears.

I have a bad 4wd AX15 and a good 2wd AX15. I would like to fix the 4wd with parts from the 2wd. Can anyone tell me what parts will not interchange?

Does anyone have any idea why there would be a sound of escaping gase vapor when I losen my gas cap? I have an 88 Comanche Chief with 4.0 and five speed. Any help would be appreciated.

Shdbriding The brushguard shown in the picture is a Jeep accessory. It is shown in the back of the Comanche owner's manual. I do not know if they were installed at the factory, but the did sell them. Bruce

Eagle I had simular situation with my 88. After changing out the rear cylinder and bleeding the system the brake light would not go off. It stayed on for over a year. Until one day someone pulled out in front of me and hit their brakes. At the time I had not upgraded my master cylinder and booster yet. I stood on that brake pedal like I never did before, including driving an old beat up 51 chevy pickup and have deer jump out in front of me. Anyway, after that the light went out. I am not sure what made it go out, if something reset itself or an air bubble was forced out or what, but it worked. For what is worth, try stepping hard on the brake and I mean hard - test those seat bolts. What can you lose. PS Don't do it in traffic like I did, especially if your brakes will lock the tires. I would try it at a stand still.

Pete I have read somewhere that the transmission does not get enough lubrication and that is why it is in park or in gear and transfercase in neutral. But since when flat towing it says to do the same as a tow truck, I would be lead to believe that the front differencial spinning twice as fast as it would be if flat towed would be the reason for 30 mph limit and 15 mile limitation. I could be wrong though, I am definitely not a mechanincal engineer. Anyhow, I am with you. I disconnect the driveshaft and strap it up. No sense risking an expensive repair for such an easy task. Bruce

Sorry, left out the important part. Spin the rear tire.

Lead_not_follow I am curious as to why my front drive shaft also spins when the rear drive shaft is turned (tranny in gear and transfercase in neutral). I would like to ask you to try something with the XJ or MJ in the second video. Try putting the tranny in park and transfercase in neutral and then raise a rear tire (or both if locked) and see if your front driveshaft will spin. Mine sure does and has since I got new. Mine is not a J model transfercase though. I thought they worked the same but maybe not.

With the NP231 if you are towing for a short distance using the transfercase in neutral and transmission in gear or in park is what the owners manual says if I remember correctly. But as to not being able to use a tow dolly - not true, IF you put the transfercase in 2wd and put it on the dolly then shut it off before you put the transfercase in neutral. This keeps the axle disconnected.

Not if you want a license plate on it. Metro Altanta is strict about that.

What do you mean by "fit"? Physically, the 4.0L engine is the same block right up to the end of Cherokee production in 2001, and another year or two in the Wrangler. But if you want to just drop in another engine and keep your existing computer and wiring -- 1990 was the last year for the Renix injection/ignition system that's in your '88. Chrysler switched over to a completely different, ODB-I compliant system in 1991 that ran through 1996. 1997 was a sort of hybrid, mostly ODB-II compliant system, and then in 1998 they brought in a totally different system in the Cherokee that was used up until the end. Eagle I beleive you can use a HO block with the renix system instead of changing it out. That is unless the 92 block I have in my 88 comanche is not a HO. Bruce

Does anyone know what the u-bolts holding the spring to the axle are supposed to be torqued to? To make things worse I put in an 8.8. Any help would be appreciated. Bruce

Actually when I put a power bucket in my truck - was check for leaks in the rain and had all the interior out - the inside rear mount had to be raised to compensate for the frame rail on the outside. So the back sat a little high.

The vent windows were an option on the comanche. It was offered to me when I bought it. I just did not have enough money for all I wanted on it.

About 4 years ago I had to replace mine. The only place I could find one that actually fit was the Jeep dealership. Boy are they proud to have that part and let you know it in the price. If you can find one the internet try.

I looked for leaks today and could not find any. I rebled in the proper sequence and it seems to work much better. It sure stops much better than before I switched the master cylinder and booster. Thanks for the help, it is appreciated very much. Next project is the 8.8

My wife was busy going to the parts store for the brake fluid. haha I had my son helping me. It does appear from reading different threads that I did it in the wrong sequence. I will give a closer inspection for leaks tomorrow.

I am in the process of swapping in a wj brake booster and master cylinder along with a cherokee proportioning valve. My question is what is the norm for the amount of brake fluid you should have to put though the system to get all the air out of the lines? I have gone through close to 2 quarts of fluid so far. I have never done this type of thing before, is this normal? I am worried about the master cylinder being bad.

I have done some welding, but I do not know if I would want to try to weld to the cast center section. Is there something special that need to be done?

I definitely do not claim to be an engineer, but if air was to get in the line that is supposed to work if the front brakes fail, how do you get fluid through to push out the air. And if all are made like the picture it would not be possible at all. Just my two cents worth.[/i]

I have a question about which 8.8 is the correct one to get. I am looking to get one with disc brakes. In my search I have found many from many from 6 cylinder engines but not so many from 8 cylinder engines. Is there a difference in the two? What should I be looking for is basically what I am asking?

It seems to me this is looking a little like the NAXJA board. Cut to preices anyone with a different opinion. Does it matter that much if he wants a stiff ride, it his truck. Personally, I prefer a softer ride but there are times when I wish I had j20 springs out back.

Has anyone had any luck locating a leak that seems to be running down beside the rear window? The rear window it self does not leak. It is running out from between the two layers of sheet metal to the sides of the rear window, so it is impossible to see where it is coming from. Any help would be much appreciated.

It is a fancy name for a combination throw out bearing and slave cylinder. Sorry most people know it as an internal slave cylinder

I have noticed my truck does not seem to have much torque down low after it warms up. I recently had the concentic bearing replace due to leak and it has been this way ever since. It acted like this about a year and a 1/2 ago -- I had the catylic converter replaced and no problems until now. Could it be the catylic converter already? Anyone else have these problems?