RockMJ

Shelby, thanks a ton man! I was looking for something like that but was not finding it. My woodworking skills are not terrible and I have friends that are handy with that stuff so it shouldnt be a huge ordeal to get done. Giving me a ton of ideas and that is what I am after. Ill be incorporating some other goodies as well, just need to plan everything out first. RockMJ

Hey everyone, I spoke with my buddy about getting these made up as replicas in aluminum. It sounds very promising and I have acquired a near mint example from a member on here for getting drawing schematics made up from. He said we can certainly do these on small scale production runs and we have talked about a couple ideas regarding designs, coloring etc. Anadozing is something we might look into or powder coating depending on what everyone's take is for it. The general form we are talking about is having "Jeep" cut in on the rear most section so when the seat folds flat it is visible. This would be done for both sides of course. We also tossed around having the Jeep grille on the top and "Since 1941" below on the lower part or any combination of them. So my next question is, if we can actually make these is there enough of a market where people care enough to buy them? I think we might make a small batch of them in raw aluminum to gauge interest and possibly get them anodized to get as close to the factory gray color as possible and then have them clear coated. Either way, if nobody is interested, I will be getting a set made for myself at any rate. Maybe we should move this from the wanted section to the pub. Mods? RockMJ

Thanks guys! Yeah, the topper is going to be a permanent part of the MJ as I will be converting the bed into a camper area. Our little group of guys are building a few long haul "low budget overlander" type rigs. I will be doing a write up on converting all of this space into a functional living space in the next few months. Will be utilizing a good amount of Foss Liner to cover the inside of the topper as well as the bed area where the drawers and living space are going. If you have ever seen the adventure trailers flip-pac setup, it will be similar but built on a budget. Those over the top 16,000$ camper shells are just crazy expensive and would be nearly 16x more than what I bought the Jeep for lol. Updates the follow when I can find sources for parts and replacements! RockMJ

I just received an email back from Leer! They stated my top was built in 1989! Wow, its in great shape for the year! RockMJ

Hey everyone! I just spent this past weekend driving nearly 1200 miles round trip to pick up a Leer SWB topper for my 90' Eliminator. I was hesitant at first to make such a long trip for a part I knew essentially nothing about, but I am glad I did! The topper was located in northern GA, basically on the border of Tennessee, and hitting weather heading up there from FL it took us about ten hours. Thankfully I have extended family in GA so we got to stay over night and get some rest before heading back. Well anyways, here goes. So, if any of you are familiar with the Leer E-98 series toppers you know they are super high quality with an amazing fit and finish. I had been looking for this particular topper for close to three years and finally found one on Facebook's "Jeep Comanche" page. The guy was asking 75$ for it and I told him to hold it, I would be there with a truck and trailer to get it. Given the crappy weather we really didnt get a chance to go over it all too well, but for 75$ it was worth it. Now that we got the topper home and onto the Jeep, we got to assess what all it needs. Does anyone who has this particular brand of topper have any idea where to find replacement parts? I have contacted Leer but figured I would ask up here as well. I believe Don has this topper but in the LWB flavor. The topper basically needs all of the seals replaced front to back as well as some repair to the gel coat which has cracked in a few spots. The windows are pretty well gummed up in place from years of dirt so a thorough cleaning and oiling of the tracks should help. The other thing the topper needs is the lock mechanism replaced. Not sure if I have to replace the entire mechanism or if I can just replace the lock. The other thing is that the topper has a second lock mechanism underneath the handle one and we are still unsure of what its for. Has anyone ever done the carpeted marine grade headliner on one of these or similar? Where did you get the material from? Also, what sort of gasket have you all used for between the bed rails and topper to prevent leaking? Ultimate goal for the topper would be a full restoration of it as well as making it into comfortable sleeping quarters for the wife and I on our camping journeys. I plan to have the topper color matched once I get the MJ painted as well as adding an additional rack up top for our kayaks and what not (if it will support the weight, havent experimented yet). The bed of the MJ will likely be finished in the same marine grade headliner material as well as building custom cabinets and racks in the back for all of our gear. I will be fixing the locking mechanism for the topper as well as making my tire carrier/bumper combo lockable as well so nobody will be able to get to any of our stuff. I will also be adding some cargo netting to the roof area (underside of the cargo rack on top) for small items. Basically, we are planning on turning it into a mobile, long haul off-road type camper. Anyways, here are a few pictures! And one last awesome shot of all weve got going on. We have a Jeep'n problem :) RockMJ

I do have a buddy that does custom parts. If I had a good, non marred or damaged one I could probably get replicas made for cheap. Would need to find that ever elusive "near mint" one. I can see the pin being the death of me on this project. I have tried to get them out unsuccessfully so far but I will try that tip you mentioned. If anyone has the "one" I can take it to my friend and see what he can do with it. He has replicated parts for super cars in the past so I am sure its doable. Thanks, RockMJ

Hey everyone. Yeah, the gasket is more of a trim piece and impossible to get new. I like to get my stuff new if at all possible but its looking like I will be carefully removing the old one, cleaning it up and reusing it. The window pictured on teamcherokee's website is for a J-10. The J truck windows were flat from what I can remember and yes the MJ's have a small curve to them. I thought myself of replacing the pieces broken with glass but remembered quickly that they are not flat. I will have to call teamcherokee and see if the CRLaurence window is curved to match the oem fit and finish. I seriously doubt it, but either way its better than having an easily accessible cab to would be thieves. 64 Cheyenne, your write-up is what I found originally when I was looking a while back and its been bookmarked for future reference. You did a fantastic job of helping the rest of us through the process. Not sure how well removing the old, shot to sh*t, moonroof will go but I was able to track down the manufacturer so I will be replacing that here shortly as well. Next step is tracking down the proper install materials and adhesives for the job. Thanks everyone, RockMJ

Hey guys, thanks for the replies. I will likely be picking up the rubber gasket for the windshield since its pretty straight forward. As for the rear slider, I have the teamcherokee (CRLaurence) rear slider on order. It does not come with the gasket, I asked. They did say that its nearly impossible to find one as Mopar discontinued it some time ago. I knew about removing and reusing the gasket, I am just worried its going to turn to crap when taking it out. Florida heat has not been kind to any of the seals on the MJ but I will try my best. Likely coat it in something like WD-40 to help ease it out. Thanks guys, RockMJ

Hey everyone, I am getting to the point with my MJ that I will be replacing the front windshield and rear slider and had a few questions. I recently removed what felt like 20+ lbs of PO rtv around the windshield frame which destroyed all of the plastic clips. As you can assume the RTV caused rust around the windshield frame (big surprise) and it has been treated with POR-15, yada yada. Anyways,. being as the plastic trim clips are all spent and replacement ones cost about 15$ (teamcherokee.com), I was thinking of doing the rubber seal which is a few bucks more. My question is, how is the seal held in place? I am guessing with windshield sealant, which would be great since I am having the windshield replaced. Anything else need to be done to get it in place? My next question is regarding the rear slider gasket. I have looked high and low for a replacement seal as my rear slider is completely shot and mostly plexiglass so ill be replacing it with a new slider. I have not been able to find the seal through any distributor and am dreading calling the dealership for it. Anyone have any advice on tracking one down? On a similar note, I did track down the specifics on my moon roof model and will be ordering up a new one this week! Thanks in advance everyone, RockMJ

I will pass on the half pieces but thank you for the offer. I agree with the design flaw. I have yet to find even one that is not broken in half. The roll pins are a PITA since its in and out one way versus a pass through design. Chances are these two plastics will elude me forever and especially in the FL heat its impossible to find anything not brittle. Thanks guys RockMJ

Yeah, I have been checking on and off. Plastics tend to be mostly broken in the yards in FL, at least the ones by us. Thanks, RockMJ

Hey everyone, as some of you already know, I am nearly finished with restoring the bucket seats in my Eliminator and the only things left to do are repair the bolster on the DS outer seat and locate replacement trim pieces for around the fold forward arms. If you have ever searched for these trim pieces you know they are nearly impossible to find in a non broken condition (picture below). So this got a few of us to thinking about stronger, more durable replacements. Which leads us here. I have acquired a near mint trim piece from a member on here and I plan to take it to a friend of mine to see about getting replicas CNC'd out of aluminum where they will be rough cut and final polished later. This is just an idea and obviously if the price outweighs the benefits its a no go. So, with that said, what kinds of options would people like to see? We have discussed having them anodized in a few different colors as well as possibly having "Jeep" cut into the top portion so when the seats flip forward its in view and readable. I plan to get a few trials cut in the coming months as the distance and cost of fuel out to him is a good amount. I will keep everyone posted! RockMJ

My 88 4.0L resto-mod MJ with less miles and way ahead of that one sold for a hair under 5K. I messaged the guy about it just seeing why he thought it was worth so much. Typical response of "its a super rare Jeep." Must be something in the water down here RockMJ

Hey Don, where would I even search for one of those? What was the cost on it and part number? Unfortunately for me, the fabric on the DS is pretty thrashed as well but I am hoping to find a good base so I can use some of the old fabric to fix the bolster on the door side. Just need to find a good replacement base. Thanks in advance for any info about that! RockMJ

All these pictures of "pristine" beds makes me glad to live in Florida. Both of my MJ's are completely rust free. Cool trailer either way RockMJ

This is what I need: Because mine is broken all the way down the side like this: Thanks, RockMJ

Yeah, XJ ones will work. I am referring to the base that attaches to the seat frame, not the MJ specific bucket brackets. Figured I would post on here seeing if anyone had one as trying to find anything usable in the JY's in Florida is a joke. Thanks, RockMJ

I should clarify that I need the entire bottom, not just the cushion. The metal base that everything attaches to on my DS seat is broken. Sorry for any confusion. Thanks, RockMJ

Hey everyone, I am in need of a bucket seat bottom that is not broken. My DS seat is broken on the outside and is horribly uncomfortable so I would like to swap a passenger base or drivers side base if possible on. Also, if possible the seat pattern looks like this... No rips would be great, but dirty does not matter as long as its the same fabric/cloth pattern. Thanks in advance, RockMJ

You throw out crap that most times doesn't apply and is off the subject matter. You're back-pedalling now, you know. I feel we are here to help others, not lead them astray with off the cuff crap that wastes their time. Where am I backpedaling? I read he altered the TVS which was fine before it started acting up. He re-checked and it made no difference. On to the next thing. PS: Mine was recently shifting weird because the TVS cable was frayed at the throttle and sticking in the sleeve. Not that this is the OP's issue. Well no, the Jeep was acting up long before I ever made the TVS adjustment but yes adjusting it has zero impact on the driveability of the Jeep. Upon examining it the other day it looks as if the throttle kick down linkage is new as well as the radiator, water pump, and other things. Good news for me that I was unaware of. I just picked up the new TPS sensor and will be doing this Saturday morning. Keep your fingers crossed! RockMJ

Hey guys. Yeah I have set the throttle kickdown linkage to both extremes with little to no difference in the driveability. My issue is likely electrical somewhere down the line and I ordered a new TPS sensor so I will be installing and calibrating it this weekend as well as the suggested refreshes to the Jeep. I will post up what I find out! Thanks a ton guys, RockMJ

I have not. I actually have had about five hours of wrenching time on the Jeep so far as the Jeep is stored over an hour from my place. Would upgrading the oem grounds to a thicker setup be part of what you are referring to? RockMJ

Cruiser, thanks again man! I will tackle the TPS this week and go from there. Thanks a ton for all the input! RockMJ

OMFG...be careful what you wish for... :doh: I don't have a Power mode as the tranny is from a 94. I swapped it in after my Peugot 5 speed took a dive on me. It's been a wiring debacle...until I swapped in a new wiring harness (which was also a PITA). I didn't have all the parts and pieces I needed. I'm just getting it dialed in after about 6 months of futzing with it (not my DD thankfully). My XJ has the original AW4 and it truly has been bullet proof...no tranny issues. Still has Power/Comfort switch. I think the MJ throttle valve cable is adjusted properly...as I've messed with it several times, had it disconnected/reconnected/tweaked etc. Yeah, true I don't want 6 months of issues haha. I just want the transmission to shift on its own without the engine sounding like its going to explode at 4200 RPM. I will post up if the TPS helps my issue. If not, its back to diagnosing and troubleshooting RockMJ

It could help. Here's how to do it. Bypassing the Power/Comfort Switch on a Renix Jeep Remove and unplug the switch. In the harness are 3 wires One has a stripe, one is tan, and the other black. Make a 4" jumper wire with a male spade at each end. Plug one end in the cavity for the tan wire and the other in the cavity for the striped wire and you'll be in permanent Power mode. Stuff the harness back in and reinstall the switch for looks. You could have a TPS that's bad on the "trans" side also. Cruiser, excellent information thank you! Is there any way to test the transmission side? I am going to take all the connectors off and clean and regrease them this weekend. I am going to ohm out the TPS when I do it and try to get it as close to spec as possible. I believe its off of the A-D that gives you the reading with the ignition on and the plug disonnected to as close as 5.00 as possible with the throttle completely closed, then from B-D to get the actual reading that you will be adjusting off of? It is something like 82 or 83% of the initial A-D reading IIRC. It has been a while since I have done one so I will have to look up some info on the proper procedure. Thanks guys, RockMJ