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DirtyComanche

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Everything posted by DirtyComanche

  1. Might want to check all the body (bed) mounts to make sure none have come loose. There's 6, if memeory serves me. I don't think mine ever did something like that, but how could I tell with all the rust?
  2. Looks good, I like that silver colour. And you have no rust! Mud's a nice touch too, no Jeep is complete without it. What size tires are on the XJ? (If you posted it, I missed it)
  3. Get pictures of that. There's people who believe they don't exist. (The 4.56s that is) Although I hear all 2.5/AW4s came with them?
  4. I had two buckets out of a 4 door cherokee, just put the brackets off the comanche bench on them. The drivers seat was f'd though, so I got a new one out of a 2dr cherokee. It sits high than the ones out of the 4dr, which sat higher than the bench. I think I might mess with it to see if I can get it to go down some. Of course, not like it matters when you own a garage queen.
  5. Then you want full time. With part time, if you say, lose traction while braking or going around a corner, generally you will with all the tires. Well, that's what I hear, and I think that I could agree as I've drove mine in harsh winter ice. Also you are technically only supposed to use it 'part time' which I never bother with, just don't turn corners and you're okay! Only disadvantage of the 242 I know of is the SYEs for it might suck. I'm not sure. Never looked into swapping mine as I didn't blow up my 231 before I got the SYE for it.
  6. Mine's been out only 1.5 months now... I can't imagine 3 years. Of course I'm not swapping the front AND rear... Bloody addiction!
  7. They don't make the axle weaker, just it sucks when you break the shaft. As in, break the shaft, nothing holds it and the tire in place anymore... You can still limp on a snapped shaft with them, it just gets creative. Don't highway drive it like that though...
  8. Hmm, I forgot to put the mode spring in :oops: I'll rebuild the sucker once I'm back from vacation.
  9. I looked at some vac disco diagrams, and I think I can plug them without issue. These were dodge diagrams though, so I might crack out the fsm and see if I can find the diagrams for me. I think I'll give this a try: http://home.earthlink.net/~stevenschreiber/jeep/tech/cabledis.htm If it breaks, I'll go to one peice. Besides, having random extra levers in your cab is cool. Hmm, seems the AA kit didn't come with straps for the new yoke. I feel gypped. Maybe it's because it's 1:43am and I'm hopped up on redbull, and thus can't find them...
  10. Mine are at least two inches out... and it's the passanger's side that's higher. I think it'll settle after I get some weight on it and drive it around. It's probably because I mix'n'matched two sets of stock packs to make mine and I used the top leaf from one set on one side and the top from the other on the other side. The one pack might have been flattening, or something, as the shackle on it had a different rest angle. If it doesn't settle and I can't stand it, I'll do the bushings. Also, I think these things are built a little out of kilter because all the roads are sloped from drainage, and thus they are aligned weird to make up for that. I guess I could check the fsm dimensions and see what it says. Mine has also been in numerous accidents, so it might be a bit out from that too. Heck, I should just stop worring about it. Oh, I just destroyed the vac disco plug for the tailshaft housing. Is it needed? I mean, I'm going to either swap to the one peice shafts or a cable system as the front vac lines aren't gonna reach. So, can I just plug the mother up and use the AA provided plug for the tailshaft housing and call it good? Maybe I should read into this.
  11. I don't have a Sears, even though 95% of my tools are from them. It sucks, if I break them I gotta drive 1.5 hours to get to a sears dealer. But hey, I got most of my tools free from my uncle, so I can't complain. I split the case, figured it out in like 2 minutes, gotta go seal the mother up again... My rears aren't even... Think I need to get new shackles and replace the bushings at the rear of the leaves... Grrr.
  12. I don't even remember what I payed, it was in US and therefor I didn't even want to think about it. It would have been like $270 cnd or something. I don't think I'd be able to break this thing though, unless I set it up wrong. I'd say I'm happy with it even though I haven't got it in yet. Looks pretty much identical to that other one, other than the tailhousing is a wee bit different. Ohwell, can't send it back now, can I? That and shipping would kill the difference. Yeah, I just asked in the feeble hope I could save some time, I had better go back and do it right.
  13. Well, the good news is I got my rear in... Image Not Found It gives me quite the rake. I dunno about the shackle angle though, I guess when I get the front on and some weight in the back it'll fix itself.
  14. So, I've been having fun for the last three days with this thing. First issue was the snap rings, apparently nobody here carriers snap ring pliers that can expand to more than about 1". After lots of cursing and driving to every auto, industrial, and mechanical store, I found a pair that were almost big enough. A few minutes with an angle grinder made them just large enough. That hurdle out of the way, I reassembled the case halves. Then I realized that I had to do up the oil pump tube first :oops: So, back apart it came. Then I saw in one of the tutorials for doing a SYE that if you were cleaver with a screwdriver you could do it up without dissasembly :cry: Did it back up, reassembled case halves. Now, it won't shift. Can't get the shift linkage bolted on even. Seems the shift fork is too far back and it won't go foreward enough to even be in 4lo properly. I tried turing the linkage connector at the front with a wrench, wouldn't go. Tried hammering it in where it protruded from the back of the case (was mad at this point). No go. Tried turning and hammering at the same time. Still no go. So, I ask, before I disassemble again, can I fix this without opening it? I'd like to just avoid that. I think I'm gonna go bolt the axle in during the mean time... If I've just screwed up, and better open it - say so.
  15. Tranny fluid has detergents in it, so it'll clean out some of the carbon. Never done it, heard of it done though. Seafoam works like a charm too, appartently. I'd not though, as the carbon might be holding the rear main seal together... But if you're going to go to the effort of fixing everything else, you might as well. Good luck with the 'manche!
  16. Here's an idea: Get a longer cable that runs from the cab back to that nice little bracket thing where the cables that run to each brake are located. If you have a short bed, I believe the long bed cable is at least 6" longer - do not hold me to this, I can't remember and don't feel like crawling under the 86 right now. Move said bracket as far back as possible. Connect up stock lines that run to each brake (for whatever axle you have) and you should be good to go. Or you could get the cherokee style handle pull if you have a console, and probbaly the cherokee cables... I think they use a different bracket though. Just an idea. Oh yeah, and I think stock cables are plenty long anyways, mine seemed to be going all over the place before they got to that little bracket.
  17. Personally I'd pull the cover and take a looksee, as it can be really hard to read those tags. Then you also won't be in for suprises if the axle was regearded (unlikely) or if there's something wrong with it, such as missing teeth...
  18. I think it would be a T4 - if it's a 2.5L. I might be putting my foot in my mouth, though.
  19. Call me paranoid, but I took a closer look at my gas tank today, and it's starting to bother me. Between the lighting and my camera, the pictures don't really do justice to the depth of the rust/flaking. Image Not Found Image Not Found (Disregard the 2x4, it's just holding the tank up...) That's not exactly what I call surface rust. I figure it probably has a couple years left in it at worst, but I'm not really sure. Should I just take this as an excuse to get a better tank? If so, what options do I have? I'm not a fan of fuel cells. I'd prefer a drop in replacement. There's a business on ebay that sells new ones that are identical to stock, would that most likely be my best bet? I wouldn't mind something bigger though, or even going to dual tanks. I guess I could look into custom tanks too... Oh yeah, I want to cut a hole in my bed and route my exhaust straight up through it at some point, so a stock tank would only work if it was moved back a bit, I think. If I went dual tanks that is. Might as well throw this one out there too, has anybody switched from the stock tank mounting style to something more sensible? I don't like having the tank hooked to my bed so I have to undo those nasty J-bolts every time I take my bed off. I figure I could cut the bed up a bit and weld some angle iron accross the uniframe, then weld the old j-bnolt pockets to it. Good/bad idea? Should I just figure this is something I don't want to fall off and not mess with it too much? For the 89, short bed, if it matters. I have the standard tank.
  20. I didn't realize they changed the front according to year. It's something I never noticed before. Although, that makes more sense than according to engine type.
  21. The swap would be hardish. You'd need a decent vehicle for a donor as you need the crazy small radiator for the 4.0 and all the peices that make it mount. And you'd have to wire up the MPFI, which with a donor vehicle with harness would probably not be too bad, or a complete replacement harness. You'll need a new trans too. And your driveshafts will probably be the wrong lenght. I don't think there's any differences in the rest of the shell. I never really compared my 4.0 to 2.5 as far as the firewall goes. If you run into any problems just keep a sawzall around and you'll be set. Oh yeah, there'll be lots of vacuum harness stuff to deal with. I think I'd recommend getting a GDI 3-core radiator to start with and just getting the mounts out of a junkyard. Assumably if you go the 4.0 route you'd get the wiring for it and vacuum stuff. And the same would go for the 4.2... Edit: Just went out and looked at both of mine. Firewall looks the same, a hammer would solve any problems. The front would need lots of cutting and possibly bending up some sheet metal to make it all fit right. I think it's very do-able though.
  22. Got a new console and hood release cable to weld in. And a seat. Yeah, impulse buy. I was sitting in a 2dr cherokee sport looking at the dash on it for things to pocket, and just sorta thought "Jee, this seat is way more comfy than mine." Long story short I bought it and brought it home in my dad's car... (Borrowed it for the day) He was happy about all the dirt and crap all over his seats. Anywho, anybody wanna take a crack at how many times this cherokee was out of 2wd? Image Not Found I bet no more than 3! (The picture doesn't do justice to how flawless this shifter boot [if you can call it that] is)
  23. After a little jiggling I got the hood open. Not too much damage, couple wires burned, hood release cable gone, battery casing got a bit melted. Baking soda everywhere! I'll go to the junkyard and get a new cable to weld in tomorrow. Might as well grab a console while I'm at it. And I think I'm going to cut some holes in my kickpanels and get a rubber plug to cover them when I'm not undoing my doors.
  24. Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'll go try that!
  25. Well... I got the hood on... Unfortunatly, the hood release cable touched my second battery and instantly got burned into several peices, some of which contact other things and made a nice little fire. I sprayed it down good, looks like my batteries vented acid though, so f'. That and I can't get the hood open, I'm going to have to go to crappy tire tomorrow and get a wrench that's suitable for this. I hope not too much got wrecked. Fenders are on, it looked decent for the 3 seconds I had the hood down before I started swearing. Figured out how I'm going to make the grill panel thing fit. But I'm out of bolts and washers, so nothing I can do tonight. Well, could keep putting interior in. Any speaker pics are appreciated, I would like to tidy that up. Although it can just go on the backburner too.
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