88AMComanche

Internal s;ave , i think ...The line goes from the master along the firewall,down to the drvr side tranny then a sharp turn Into the tranny. Theres also a short piece of brake line coming OUT right next to it about 4 inches long. Think I'm losing fluid up my the master though.

I'm not aware of any plastic coupler thing halfway to the slave cylinder, but will double check that tomorrow when its light out. Right now I'm thouroughly disghusted with the leak issue.I don't see how it can come from the screw in Thread part top of the cylinder.I tightened it good,but when i found it had a slight leak,I went another 16th of a turn even & still its leaking.I doubt plumbers tape(teflon) would work due to brake fluid desolves about everything including teflon probably.

The micro sizeded leak I found was where the line screws into the cylinder at the top. It leaked just enough so you couldnt see it,but with your finger feeling around the threaeded area you would get a dampness of brake fluid on your finger., So I took my small wrnch and got a 16th of a turn on it tighter, then took the cap off & slowly pressed the pedal to the floor about 12 times each time coming up slowly. Felt like i had decent pedal......but the next orning it went right to the floor again. So severely frusterated with the whole truck. Ive spent a year redoing all kinds of things on it,from the fender to steering columnb to heater core, to rust removal, to welding to Ac duct work, to remving the entire interior to windshield replace etc. Now this pesky clutch pedal problem. Ugh

Sorry bout that ....Its the Master up on the firewall,next to the break booster. It holds the brake fluid for the clutch. I got it at advance auto. Its the only one I could find and have it within a day. Its an almost exact replica match & the part number is for my truck.. Worked perfect for about a week,now I'm back to having to pump them up & every 5 pumps i might get a 1/4 pedal if that.

On an 88 comanche, 4.0 .. 5 speed. I replaced my clucth master cylender (slave)? It worked great for about a week, but i kept getting wetness on my carpet behind the fuseblock. So......I found a micro sized small leak coming from around the threads on the main line going into the cylender. It was pretty dirty but i did wire brush the threads before screwing them into the cylender. Now its a week later & even though Ive removed the cap & slowly bled the system, and it worked great for a week with good solid clutch pedal , Last few days its very spuratic & innermittened. Might have half a pedal, it may go stright to the floor & won't disengage trhe clutch. Can anyone please give me a pointer or two on how to solve this problem?? I'm having to power shift just about everywhere i go & I'm aT THE end of my rope. When i bled the sytem,I didnt see any bubbles at all. The fluid goes UP a little when pressing the pedal, & back down to the full line. I'm CONFUSED.

:waving: Imin the exact same boat, well sorta ....I installed a new set of sunpro gauges, & its all hooked up working good Except my temp unit. Its also laying ontop. I plan on installing it just below the manifold kinda towards the front,just havent done it yet.

i unhooked the battery at 11:59 & put it back on at 12:00 ...it kept time for a short time,but now is ALWAys wrong,by several hours. maybe the clocks just no good. or maybe theres a "memory" somewhere in the fusebox that isnt hooked up,so when i trun th truck off,it stops at that time? no idea.

Just simply remove the Fan bolts & the clucth too. But add an electric fan or if it came with AC i swill already have an electric fan.I don't use my AC, so I'm considering doing this anyway just to increase myhorsepower slightly. Not much but it will slightly improve because the fan robs a bit of power from the sheer resistance.

No noes up for me. level is my goal.

Id just like it to sit a bit more level ...when you look at the bottom line of the body (pinchweld) It has a slight forward slant. a tiny bit is fine but the difference between the front & back is a bit much. If I LOST an inch in the rear, or Gained an inch in the front, it would look better IMO

Whats Rake? if it means the front higher than the back, then i don't like rake either.

Very true .....Eventually i will carry something fairly heavy in the back. But so far, nuthing more than 3 lil bags of groceries.

:dunno: Hmmm ......Pondering now wether or not to even mess with it at all. BUT, The info is helpful in the way of maybe i can check it as it is and make sure my tow in & tow out are correct.

That is super cool helpful advice. Thank u. I suppose theres no wauy of knowing how much Towin or out would be needed,for an inch increase in heigth. Right now i can go down a flat road & let go & it stays striaght quite a ways before gradually starting to slightly vere one way or the other. don't wanna mess that up. Id GUESS that an inch increase would need about a half a turn of the tow...OUT? or In?

The part about the front being solid axles & not effecting alingment has me puzzled. It doesnt SEEM like it would effect it ...........BUT, as far as the springs weakening from the little twist in spacers DOES make sense. I can see how it would weaken them a bit over time. / I have a friend at work with a cherokee & he raised the front just a bit so it sits more level & all us dudes say the same thing ...........Looks good. Makes it look "right" somehow. As far as I know he did not use the twist in block spacer things, he did something else. Not sure what but something. Knowing him, it was a quik fix :bowdown:

Ive been quite content with how my truck sits, up until the last few weeks. Now, everytime i see it....it bugs the sh*t outta me that it doesnt sit LEVEL. as far as the front & back goes. I have about 5" travel in the wheelwell in back, but only about 3" travel in the wheelwell in front due to the weight of the engine.....and time I'm assuming. So, as much as I was against doing any kind of lifting or heigth adjusting before....now i am thinking of buying those metal "push-turn in" little blocks from the parts store for the springs. Id just be happy with the front end an inch higher, just so it doesnt look so "slanted" or "front heavy" a friend of mine ,a jeep fenatic, said....I can just put those in the springs for a bit of lift and it doesnt effect steering or alignment at all since its solid axle. / Anyone know if this is true or not? Its not that I want the truck Higher.......I just want the front end to look somewhat even with the back. ??

well, that would sure set my time i must say thanx. I'm assuming maybe the contacts in the tiny buttons are gone or just too dirty or something......but yeh i will set it like u said,hell....works for me. ty

on top of all my other issues,this ones failry minor.....Ive tried resetting the little clock using the 2 small holes in front, but the holes do nuthing to the time. Am I missing something? Ive even had it out and pressed the fat black pushbutton in the rear of it & still won't reset. It keeps time, just can't set it to the correct time.

Not to go OFF topic..........But does anyone remember the Amc/Jeep Eagle? IMO that was the vehicle that started it all as far as FAmily SUVs go. 4wd , yet looked like a family sedan/station wagon :bowdown: those were Coool

Haha .I'm sure / I did see on ebay several months ago, a guy had a set of like 8 sensors for whatever vehicle it was. selling them as a set. thats kinda what I had in mind & was asking,sure would be nice to buy an entire set & replace them all at trhe same time,keeping the old ones as a spare.

I just wasnt sure if it will cause a problem long term having them both reading voltage.

Anyone know if theres anywhere or anyone that sells an actual KIT of sensors? Id sure like to replace All mine & be done with it.

I have the Sun Pro gauge set (Oil pressure/temp/Voltage) ......I hooked up my voltage gauge just fine & it usually reads between 11.5 and 13.5 depending on rpm or running or not. But I never disconnected it from the regular IN-DASH factory gauge, so I get volt reading from BOTH gauges & they Both read normal. Any opinions on this?? Id Like to disconnect the factory dash volt gauge but not exactly sure where or how and they both seem to operate just fine & both seem to be accurate. Is it ok like this?

I dunno. Mines made of brass or copper but its also the Sun Pro gauge set so i guess its gonna look different. Not to drift off topic,but I have a slight confusion on where to install mine at. Theres the thing on top of the engine towards the rear of the block,Looks like what youre pointing at in the pic.....but ive heard it goes in just below the exhaust manifold .....so in the meantime ,Mines laying on top of the manifold. So my temp reads about 190 just laying on it. :mad:

I myself don't need one, but If I did, I think Id buy a sheet of "peg board".Available in lots of places, and get the carpet you need. Attaching carpet to that would be a breeze. You might be able to get the material & get it done even cheaper than buying one & paying shipping when its all said & done. .....thats what I'd do. Just a thought