88AMComanche

The 90 or 91 i seen just had this pro looking steel tubing type piece with inlet tubes & outlet tubes & thats all it did. allowed water to flow thru it & conects the hoses. I'm Gonna find it,somehow someway. I know the part your talking about ...and that IS the correct area for what I'm talking about,but this thing had no valve at all & was simply a metal tubing connector that all the hoses go to and all 6 connect to it. 3 inlets & 3 outlets, ... In one line & out to heatercore ...then out heatercore to the in on the Tubing thing, then out that Into the wtare reserviour tank, then Out the wtare reservior tank, into the steel tubing pice thing then out to thermostat house & so on. Ty for the input,that does give me an idea of more search options.

I seen under the hood of a 90 or 91 Cherokee with a 4.0 ...look just like mine except,far less wiring mess than mine has. But back by the watre fill reserviour /heater area where all the hose go to & come from ......Most jeeps has a "valve" there .....This one just had this contraption that was quite simple & I NEED this item badly. Picture this: 2 hoses come from the thermostat housing area (in/out) and 2 come from the heater core (1 in 1 out) and 2 come from the water coolant reserviour (1 in 1 out) Correct? Ok... This ITEM made of like a metal or steel tubing,probably 5/8s just guessing .....has all the hoses going to it, allowing the coolant to travel thru it & Neat-ens up having to use connectors etc. If you were remove this ITEM ,it would just look like a weird tube about 5 inches long with like 6 lil tubes sticking out of it. WHATS IT CALLED? Gawd this is running me crazy.Ive been trying to find some way of finding this item & can't find any sign of it anywhere. ..........If it werent for that "valve" thingy that the hoses go to (and from) youd have to bypass it & connect them some other way ......I need this Item because My truck has the water reserviour and this ITEM would be perfect for what I need. My cooling system is pieced together as far as hoses go. Connectors,extra hose clamps,.more connectors,adaptors. Ugh ........Just need to find this Metal tubing Junction type item for my truck. Sorry this is all over the place. dunno what the item is called. :dunno:

I know,I know ......Water isnt enough ......The cap on my reserviour tank allows the water to evaporate AND allows a few drips as I'm driving from the pressure inside the tank. So no matter how tight i have the lid,it will have a small amout trickle ,which means once per week I fill it up. Since this episode with the freeeplug blowout, and seeing just how crappy the brownish watre is inside the block,Even b4 reading all this I plan on going atleast 70/30 antifreeze just to avoid rusty block water etc. This has caused me to flush out the system a few times ,which is good. / NOW......I finally located the Correct ruber expansion plug (napa) ....it STARTS at 2" rather then ending at 2" ....installed it last night. Thing fits perfectly. Just tight enough where ya have to tap lightly each side to get it all the way flush. Then tighten it up. ...I'm just not sure how tight to tighten the screw? anyone know?? I'm gonna go aproximately 20pnds tq. just don't wanna over tighten it I'm also gonna nose the front end down into the ditch & bleed the system. HEY.......No ones mentioned this:When bleeding the system for air bubbles,nosed down into ditch, even then theres Still low points if u look at all the hoses how they run. theres just no way to get All the air out. Theres always gonna be some air pocketed down in a hose or two. Just sayin

Just loosened that bleeder on back of the engine, fill water tank.started vehicle & it pushed water out steady, probably a full gallon for about 45 seconds or so, so With the truck running & garden hose running keeping watretank full, I closed off the bleeder valve. ........after about 3 minutes of letting it idle,it reached 210 & all the hoses were warm/hot .....which they werent before. I'm not too crazy about it sitting on 210 but it seemd to stay in that general area & didnt go much past it. maybe 215. isnt 220 max temp???

gonna try to find that bleeder type thing you mention back by firewall on engine. Theres a few one that sway way back almost near the REAR of the engine top, then theres one thats not quite that far back there. Both have wires going to it.

Its the next morning now ....An I just went out to top off the water & start it up .....No smoke,running good EXCEPT....It crawls up to 220-230 within 3 minutes of running. Water is full .....yet all the hoses are NOT getting hot .....there not even warm .........yet gauge shows 220-230 ..While i had freezeplug out,I used my finger to drag loose cruddy crud out of the hole & rn water thru it till it ran clean, just wondering if my thermostat is screwed up now. How would i even know if it HAS a thermostat? is there a way of knowing without removing things?

UPDATE: 2.17.12 10:38pm ........I installed the "slightly undersized" expansion plug & wrenched it until the face plate began to bow & then another turn .......Filled the reservior bottle up with water, started the truck & watched underneath for leaks, & there were none. so THATS good .....but strangely enough its smoking out the exhaust pipe heavily, real bad. doesnt really smell like typical exhaust smoke though. not much odor really but heavy smoke all of a sudden. Plus my TEMP gauge went up to about 250 in a short time,so I shut it off. ........when I felt the hoses going to the tank & from the tank, they felt empty & Not hot ...........I felt underneath the fat hose to the radiator & It wasnt hot either ......what on earth could cause this???? and Why is it smoking out the exhaust all of a sudden. ? any one wanna throw a guess even??

no,havent done that

A Block heater??? will it fit considering theres only 3 inches clearence between the hole & the exhaust?? gonna google this heater you speak of,thanx

thats frikkin nice man!

4.0 rear (closest to firewall) freezeplug was leaking and hitting exhaust and smoking. I FINALLY after hours got the old one out, but the rubber "expansion plug" they gave me at advance is a 47-50mm ,I need a 50mm to whatever,next size up in other words. The one they gave me just spins in the hole.Its snug but will Not tighten down. And theres not enough room with the exhaust manifold to bang in a new freezeplug,so I'm sitting here broken down, no other vehicle trying to figure out what to do, or hoping someone on here can figure out how to fix this. Just for the record,I DO have a new Freezeplug correct size,but no room at all to get a socket on it AND hit it with a hammer. Only have maybe 3" total due to exhaust manifold (yeh its that one,the pain in the arse hardest freeze plug to get to. H E L P ?? how can I A)make this rubber expansion plug slightly bigger to work or B) is there a trick to pressing the freezeplug in with only 3" clearance? I am completely screwed till i get this resolved so I will check back here often. TY in advance

Ever since i got my truck a few years ago, the PS has always made this strange almost duck quack sound when you let off the gas & the rpms drop ....i noticed today just with it idleing,the quack sound is way way more often. Also when it makes the quack sound...i notice the rpm gauge drops 1 rpm along with the quack sound. I'm assuming the PS maybe is starting to drag maybe? anyone else hear of anything like this??

Just put a small bit of permatex across grooved side of blt, squeek dissapeared, TYVM

I will give that a try ...wonder if it has to be silicone .... think i have a small tube, may try that. Ty for atleast pointing me in a direction. Tired of trying to pinpoint exactly where its coming from.

3 months ago,My water pump had a rumbly-ish noticable noise,which i found to be the water pump, so I swapped it out ....only to notice this mousy faint squeek coming from so0mewhere front of the ngine, which has increasingly gotten louder to where it irrittating. So I put CRC inside the tensioner pully,just a squirt ....which made it worse, SO....dealth with it for weeks,then gave in & replaced it today. The SQUEEK is still there. Standing in front center of the truck, it sounds kinda to the left-ish ...air conditioner pulley? Alternator pully? Would a Main bearing toward the front of the engine squeek? squeel even. this can be quite frusterating. I wanna hear my exhaust, Not squeeking. I manulally idled it up around 1800ish rpm or so & the squeeking became more solid sounding & slightly louder. ALL input is appreciated. really. I'm stumped. Roommate says its a belt but it doesnt sound like it would be a belt. MAYBE the belt is over one groove too far maybe on one of the grooved pullys. Mind you tensioner pully is Smooth,the rest are grooved. sorry so long,irritating noise.

Ive searched this entire internet & can't find any simple step by step on how to replace a waterpump on an 88 4.0 .some people say its a breeze,yet i seen a vid on a 91 replacement & ya have to remove all kinds of stuff . Just wonderiung of anyone might have a link or advice or anything before i start removing my waterpump?? tyvm in advance.

CORRECTION: NOT the TPS but i meant to say the CPS (crankshaft positioning sensor)

On my 88 ,whihc may be a bit different than yours due to mines part AMC & part Chrystler , but mine periodically will crank & crank & crank & crank but not start, so I get out, slide underneath the drivers floor under it, & find the TPS wire that runs quite close to the exhaust pipe/manifold .one single wire.......and i wiggled that & then it fires up like normal ...aftre this happening 5 different times, I used one hand (cuz thats all i can fit in that tight of an area) & pressed the connecter together rather firmly to be sure its getting good connnection............ and so far It hasnt crank crank cranked in over a week, So Far ....

PS- When i turn the key ON,i wait tioll i no longer hear the fuel pump (about 2-3 sec) TEHN i TRY to start it. Once when it wouldnt start after 40 seconds straight cranking...I popped the hood, & pressed the fuel rail pressure relase valve and had excellent pressure. so Id assume it can't be a fuel problem, or what? any ideas?

3 times now in the last week .Ive went out to get in the truck,hit the key & it will sit and crank over seems like forever. Just to a point where you should stop otherwise the battery will start to lug down. .So I popped the hood & randomly moved the wiring harness back n forth & several other stray wires & just touched them so theyd move. silly I know....but,when your stranded,anything is worth a try. I get in & it started up this time. ----What I don't know is....Was it a wire? causing the issue? OR was it the Sitting fo9r a few minutes after i cranked it over for a while? that made it correct itself & finally start up? SO DA*M IRRITATING!! .....grrrrr!!!!!!!!!

wow, thanx.........will give that a try.

..Hello ....What would make a renix 4.0 sit there and crank over & over & over for like 30 seconds stright & never fire up? I know the fuel pump is kicking in & pumping up. I can hear it, plus its only a few months old. It always starts after about 5 seconds of cranking over. Yet TWICE now in the last few weeks it has sat there & will crank over forever till I let off the key. So I shut the key off & turn it back on & it fires right up ??????? This is so random. but just enough to stress me out & not be confident that maybe somethings going bad maybe. anyone else ever have this issue?? its like ......it will start within 5 seconds 100 times in a row, but one time it will not fire up at all,almost as if the coil is unplugged or something. yet turn the key off & back on then it fores right up. W I E R D

Well its just a 25amp inline fuse. I'm assuming only 12 volts would be going to the switch. I don't know for sure,but it may already go to a relay somewhere cuz Id be tieing into the factory Foglight switch wire thats already there. ALSO..........What if I DO find a foglight relay (wherever it might be hiding) .....How do I run a wire to it?? Just strip the lead wire & wrap it around the relay metal prong?

Well its just a 25amp inline fuse. I'm assuming only 12 volts would be going to the switch. I don't know for sure,but it may already go to a relay somewhere cuz Id be tieing into the factory Foglight switch wire thats already there.

hope this aintt a repost. ...........Ive had foglights on my truck almost 8 months now & havent even wired them up yet. Ive been poking around reading all kinds of jeep forums & every one of them always brings up running wires to the Relay thats under the hood and talking about pin # 5 and pin#38 etc etc CoNfUsIng stuff to me. Since i have an INLINE 25amp fuse,can't i just wire them up to the factory swicth?? maybe the wires go to a relay already for all I know. I have 3 wires coming FROM the switch & do know the Green wire is Hot with the key on. can't i just take my Hot white foglight wire & run it TO that green Hot wire on the swicth?? Relly hope someone can simplify this for me. The bolts on my new lights are starting to rust & i havent even used them yet.