danno

No prob man :cheers: http://www.esabna.com/us/en/education/k ... -Steel.cfm Technically it isnt welding, just brazing a coating of aluminum.

My point was you can't weld aluminum to steel without special procedures, and even then it is a very brittle joint. I hope it just looks like an aluminum wheel in the pic. If not don't get under that Jeep!

Sorry I meant the one under the axle on the right. Looks like an alloy wheel on top of a steel wheel. Maybe just the pic?

Nice find! BTW Is that an aluminum wheel somehow welded to a steel wheel???

Thanks. That got me thinking and I realized I'm dumb. ORG/BLK is illumination. I didnt think of that. I had it going to ground :doh: Also changed switched from BLU/WHT to PPL/ORG

Needed to upgrade the tunes in the truck so I just finished installing a cheapie Sony Xplod and some Kicker speakers. Now when I turn on the headlights, it blows the instrument panel lights fuse and shuts the radio off. Shutting the headlights off restores power to the radio. All exterior lights work. Using my power probe I found going to the factory radio BLU/WHT = switched + PPL/ORG = switched + PINK = constant + ORG/BLK = ground BLK = ground attached to radio chassis I used the PINK for radio constant and the BLU/WHT for radio switched. I tied both grounds BLK and ORG/BLK together to provide radio ground. I insulated and terminated PPL/ORG and did not use What did I do here? Can someone provide a wiring diagram? Why are there two switched power and two grounds? Thanks, Daniel

This site lists the recall for 1986 model year Comanches http://www.jeep-comanche.com/comanche-recall.asp I might try and talk the local dealer into doing this to my 90

And I thought I had an original idea :fs1:

Dude, you guys are awesome! :bowdown:

Can someone post up a pic of the switch they use and where to get one?

I wouldn't call that missing metal, just rough casting.

Thats odd. Ive never measured but I thought I had read that stock MJ shackles were bigger than 4" center to center. here's mine with a Chevy shackle

Bump. Got those pics Jeepco?

That would be awesome!

When i did my external slave swap it necessitated a late model clutch assy which came with a pilot bearing for the larger late model input shaft. I had to go get one for my older small input shaft. I think the terms bearing and bushing mean a two part bearing or a one piece bushing and are interchangable

Interesting. What kind of switch are you using?

Got a chance to test it out on a trail for about 5 hours. Seems the switch leaks internally as every time I shut the truck off for longer than 5 minutes the CAD would disengage. I bypassed the switch by routing vacuum directly to the apply side of the diaphragm and it stopped disengaging on shutoff. Not sure where to go from here, I might try another switch? Will keep this updated as I try other ideas.

Make sure you get the correct size pilot bearing for the year of transmission you are installing. The clutch kit I bought for my external slave swap was for a later model transmission and had a pilot bearing that was too large for my earlier model ax-15. I had to run back to the parts store and buy a pilot bearing for my early model trans.

Oh and I think I might be able to get the parts through my work account :thumbsup: This switch runs about $16 IIRC

So I found a switch that will work but the hose barbs are for 1/16 ID hose :fs1: and I think that is way to small to function properly. I think I will try the stiffer spring idea. I tried different lengths of the spring I had and settled on an inch section because any longer and it wouldn't let the fork travel far enough for my liking. I'm going to hit the trails this evening with some friends so we'll see how it performs as is.

These guys are from my home town! I had no idea. :banana:

So it works pretty good! Its a little slow to return with just the spring providing pressure. I was afraid of that. If I am not careful it will get stuck slightly engaged and I can hear the splines grind a little :ack: I am going to try and find a exhausting selector switch that will send a vacuum signal to one of two ports and exhaust the other so the diaphragm will be powering both in and out.

I had an idea to operate my d30 CAD. Wanted to keep the disconnect part so I could say I have 4low. Not that I will ever use it though... :nuts: I like the cable operated idea but wanted to try something new. :wrench: I fix dental equipment for a living and a lot of the systems I deal with are pneumatically controlled. I decided to use a 3 way (venting) air switch to apply vacuum to the CAD diaphragm Air (or in this case vacuum) is routed to the rear port and is sent to the side port when the switch is moved to on. The source vacuum at the rear port is then blocked and the applied vacuum at the side port is relieved when the switch is moved to off. The relieving feature is what makes this a "3 way" switch and is needed to allow the diaphragm to return to the "disconnected" position when switched off. I followed the cable operated writeup and used a cut down spring I had lying around to return the fork to the disconnected position. Here is a link to a vid of it in action. I will install tomorrow and see how it works.

As Hornbrod said I think in the future if I need to remove the CAs for bushing replacement or whatnot I will do it on the ground, one at a time, and remove as few components as possible. But for the time being I'm gonna get me some 31s and enjoy as it sits! Ive only had the truck for two months. :wrench: I'm sure my downfall was removing the UCAs in the first place. I was under the impression they would go right back in. But now I know that for stock size springs with a 2" spacer, all you need to do is remove the shocks, swaybar, track bar, and brake lines then use a spring compressor. I used a MacPherson Strut compressor that clamps from the outside of the spring. I didnt think I would be able to use the internal compressor on this. I do agree that it is pretty nerve wracking to have all that stored energy in your hands and near your, ahem, gentlemans area. I think I will check out the lower shock mount to see if I could remove some material to make installation easier next time. Thats a good tip! :thumbsup: Might come in handy when I decide I want to go taller.

I tried that but for some reason it was just all bound up.