danno

Just finished a 2" boost with spacers and shackles thanks to the info and help on this site. Overall I am pleased with the results. This was my first time messing with Jeep suspension and I must say I like leaf sprung front axles a lot better but I'm sure I just need some more experience. Gain was 1.25" in the rear and 2" in the front, as measured at the top of the body. A few pics Stock shackle length 4.5" eye to eye Chevy drop shackle 7.75" eye to eye. I had to grind the busing down about 1/8" on each side to fit in the hanger and use nice thick fender washers to shim the leaf end (one on each side of the spring). Before After Pics are with 30x9.50s. 31x10.50s to come in the next couple of weeks. Should I keep these wheels? I am thinking good ol black steelies. What do you all think?

Thanks for the help everyone! I removed the springs, supported the diff with the floor jack, hooked a ratchet strap around the pinion and attached it to the floor jack and was able to rotate the axle enough to get all 4 control arms in. Then installed the springs and spacers with a spring compressor. I had to use my stock jack between the frame and axle to help push the axle down enough to get the springs in. After that I could not get the track bar to line up (axle was about an inch toward the pass side) so I put the tires back on and set the truck down. I was able to turn the steering wheel and center the axle enough to get the bolt into the track bar.

Awesome! Thanks everybody! :cheers: I'm about to go back out there and tackle this thing, arms first then springs.

Removed both springs and spacers and tried to get UCAs back on. Able to get pass side but driver side still will not line up. Do I have to take the LCAs off to get the UCAs on? I don't have to remove the tie rod ends do I? I'm no dummy and have been doing this stuff for a while but this is my first Jeep and first coil sprung solid front axle. This is throwing me for a loop here. :???: I used the method described here viewtopic.php?f=2&t=30191&hilit=budget+boost to do the front "Coil spring installation- unbolt shocks brakelines upper control arms then put new coils and or spacers in then attach control arms then shocks and brakelines! Tighten everything once again!" I know this is abbreviated but says nothing about the LCAs.

Hello In the middle of a 2" BB on my 90 4x4 MJ. Had a hell of a time getting the UCA bolts out of the axle side. Seemed like as soon as I dropped the shocks and swaybar mounts and loosened the UCA bolts the axle just rotated forward and now I can't get it to rotate back. The springs are arched forward as evidence of this. I have tried jacking the front of the axle, using a long prybar to rotate the axle (works somewhat but won't go far enough). Vehicle is supported on the framerails by jackstands. Trackbar is disconnected. LCAs are loose at both ends. When removing the UCA bolts, as soon as the bolt passed the first "wall" of the UCA the axle started twising. Springs are reinstalled with 2" spacers. Axle was giving me grief before the spacers were installed. Had to pry/pound the UCA bolts out of the axle side. Sorry my thoughts are not organized right now. I guess I am asking how the heck do I get the UCAs back on? :cheers: Please help! My truck is stuck in my garage!

Do you think the new fluid will make its way down to the slave? I can't believe they would manufacture a slave cylinder that you cannot bleed. So frustrating. :wall:

My slave has a barbed fitting with a o-ring and pin but thats a good idea! I might try and unhook the line and let it drain for an hour or so while watching the fluid level. Its not DD status yet but getting there! I need to get this thing reliable in the next couple months because the motor is coming out of my current DD soon.

I pretty much did the same, although I got rid of the heater valve entirely - haven't had any problems with the heat or A/C yet. Got an overflow bottle from AutoZone: Sorry to bring back an old thread but what is the black knob in your heater hose? Is that a shut off valve? Wanting to do this to mine as my bottle is cracked.

Bump Nothing?

Hello all 90 mj 4.0 ax15 Just completed an external slave swap on the trans. My internal slave was leaking and I only wanted to pull the trans once, ya know? Installed new master, plastic slave (without a bleeder) and had to get the line made at a local industrial supply shop as I could not find one locally. I flushed the line with some fluid before install and the mc and slave were sealed when I bought them. I installed the master a week before the swap hoping my slave would hold out longer but no dice. I bled the system by working the slave pushrod in and out slowly while my pop watched the fluid level. I have great pedal feel but the fluid is very dark. Fluid was clear a week before when I changed the master only. I guess I have two questions: 1. How do you all bleed the clutch system? Is there a way to actually change the fluid with no bleeder? Or do I have to bench bleed everything? 2. Whats with the no bleeder on the slave? It has a boss for one but the hole is blind and I didnt want to drill through it. Slave was purchased from NAPA and they said that was the only one they have. I guess thats four questions :dunce: Thanks everybody!

Alright found the problem The neutral safety switch wire (blk/wht) to the starter relay had burned up at some point and had extremely high resistance. Ran a new wire and cleaned up the relay connections and problem solved! Any ideas as to what may have caused this? The wire casing was completely gone from the relay to the connector that leads down to the trans and NSS.

Awesome thanks alot man!

Testing the starter solenoid signal wire shows zero voltage when going straight to start then voltage after one second of holding start. Turning ign to run and letting sit one second shows voltage immediately when turned to start. WTF? :redX:

Hi New to Jeeps, spent the last 4 years with Toyotas. Got tired of the lack of power! So far I love this truck, a 90 4.0 AX15 4X4. Power, style, utility, parts availability, and much better mileage than my V6 4runner. Just completed the external slave conversion to my AX15 and am loving it. This site has helped me tremendously. It had a leaking MC when I got it. Replaced MC, removed the fuse block and cleaned with an entire bottle of electrical contact cleaner and replaced all the fuses. Checked for rust as well. NONE! Gotta love the southwest. On to the problem When starting, if I turn the key directly to "start", there is about a one second pause before the starter engages. If I turn the key to "run" and leave it there for one second then turn the key to "start", the starter engages immediately. Whats going on here? Or is just something that these things do? Any help would be appreciated! Dan