randimal

I dunno. they're not too horrible. But they get in the way a little. personal choice I guess. But the question was where to get one. So I'd say your local U-pull, Pick-a-part, Pull-a-part, or just your favorite junkyard. They are pretty common on XJs.

From my experience, I replaced about every joint and replaceable part with no luck. Turns out for me it wasn't worn parts. Finally went away when I got the RE drop brackets. My theory is that they returned the castor(I think thats the one) back to where it should be. You may be able to get the same results with longer LCAs.

Yeah, if you have access to coil springs, go for it. Personally, I'm kinda cheap. I like the spacers since they are really cheap and predictable. But they don't fix bad springs.

Thats good info. I always did the toe-in myself, but the caster info was new. I always just eyeballed it. Which didn't work. Once I got to 6 inches, I got vibes plus death wobble. Like many people, I replaced most of the front end with little results. Didn't go away until I got the RE drop brackets. That makes sense since they pull the caster back closer to normal. I probably could have done it with longer control arms and shims, but the RE brackets also make it perform a lot better so I'm happy.

For a 2 inch lift I would just run everything stock with coil spacers in front maybe 2 inch lift springs in back. It works best that way and nothing really ever breaks. If you don't currently have the stock parts, you could pick them up at a yard, and most of us probably have them lying around somewhere in the garage. Stock trackbar is fine up to about 4 inches. Generally speaking, the more things you change, the more things you break. When they are stock, there really is no weak link in the system. As soon as you upgrade something, everthing else becomes the weak link.

Motor mount actually looks OK. There is supposed to be a gap between the rubber and the steel. But you can't actually tell from the picture what condition the rubber is in. Usually it tends to crack right along the bolt. Its hard to see, you sometimes have to stick your head way in there to find a crack. Generally, the drivers side goes first. Aftermarket motor mounts are really beefy. You can get Poly or rubber. Most people like the rubber because the poly makes you feel the engine vibes intimately through the seat of your pants. However, some people enjoy this. You're call.

The Mustang injectors are supposed to have a better spray pattern which supposedly causes more a efficient burn. Should actually improve economy and performance if that is true. But the amount of fuel they use is about the same.

OK, so 2wd AW4 won't work....If I find a 2wd with AW4 and I swap in my 4wd AW4, do I have to bring my computer and wiring with it? I don't know if thats difficult, but it sounds nasty.

The other way to keep water out is just to lift it more.

Hey, what paint did you use? I like the flat look and I've always liked olive drab. I still don't have an MJ, but if I end up getting an ugly one I'm going to steal your color.

If you haven't already done so, think about modding the hood a little bit. They were never designed for much air circulation (designed for the 4-banger). A couple of vents near the back help to let out some of the hot air.

Ya'll forgot fuel injectors. Mine are from a Mustang (I got a box of 8 for 10 bucks on E-bay). Supposedly they work better. I didn't put mine in until the stock ones were leaking all over. By then the engine was fairly worn out so I couldn't tell you how well they work. BUT... they don't leak. Aside from that, K&N is easiest. Keeping it tuned up is good for HP. Headers are also supposed to work well. I have a Borland or something like that that I never got around to installing. Maybe it will go on my MJ when I find one.

Looks like you got the "transmission maintenance access panel" option. I think that came with all Pugeots for the recommended weekly maintenance. (c=

8.8... I've always thought about getting an 8.8. I have 4:10 gears now, and I believe 8.8s are pretty common in that gearing. How much narrower is it? If I remember correctly its only about .5 inch narrower per side. Much stronger too. spring perches... Yeah, I was planning on just welding on new ones. Question: can you take off the old ones with an angle grinder with cutting wheels? Thats the best cutting tool I have at the moment.

Someone mentioned that cherokee axles don't fit SPOA on MJs. Thats too bad. I was just hoping to bolt one on. Whats the problem? Spring pads to narrow?

Thanks guys. You rock. Some more comments below. About the LB...I'm still considering the LBs, they a lot easier to find. If I get one, I will fab a bumper right away and do the quarter panels while I'm at it. I'm tempted to bob it, but probably too much work for the benefit. What worries me a little is that we have a lot of trees out here. Some of our trails have long stretches winding through trees. I'm afraid I may need to grease the bed to get it to fit through. Plus a bit more chance of bottoming out. I guess I could get a 10 inch lift. (c= But I do know a guy here with a long bed comanche and he has done all the trails, so its mostly just paranoia on my part. If I find a really nice long bed I'll probably get it. About the Tranny...I need an auto and I want an AW4. I'm not sure if they made any other autos. I know there were some Pugeots, but they were manual. About the 2wd...Custom driveshafts are a little spendy (I have a NP242 with SYE). But if I get a good deal, I may pick up a 2wd.

I'm new. I posted on the Yahoo group. I thought I should try here as well. I haven't started my project yet, but I already have most everything I need since I have a built XJ. I just need to find the MJ. Question. If you were starting from scratch, what model would you buy? Thanks. Here's the post from the group. *********************** Hi there, I'm new. I don't have a Comanche at the moment, but I have a built XJ with a 6 inch lift, 32s, 4:10s, SYE, Drop brackets, ARB Bull Bar, Armor, etc... But its engine is fairly dead at the moment. I actually have a Samurai for mild off-roading, and I have an old pickup truck for hauling. I decided I could basically trade in the truck and part out the Cherokee and build a pretty nice Comanche to do the job of both. That way I could tow the Samurai and my wife or friends could wheel the MJ. My plan is to TRY to find a short bed 4.0, Auto, 4x4 (or not) with a decent engine. These seem to be pretty rare. The long beds are easier to find, but don't seem like they would work too well off road. I'd like to find a stock rig so I could use all of my previous XJ investments. Are these things as hard to find as they seem to be? I need auto more than anything so my wife can drive it. Plus my XJ is auto and I like it. Transmission swaps sound pretty nasty. I doubt anyone on here has a stock rig but I could always ask. The prices seem to vary too. I've seen running rigs from 500 to 6000. Kinda wierd. Well, let me know if you have any info for me. Time is on my side. I'll find one eventually. Randy (Seattle Area)