randimal

I haven't posted on this thread, but I thought it was about time since I have some pictures now. Here's my new MJ... And here's my old XJ (dead engine). I need a truck a lot more than a SUV now days, so I'm moving all the upgrades to the comanche. I feel bad, since the XJ looks so nice in that picture, but its a bit more rusty, dirty, moldy now for sitting around for over a year. I'll get over it. Oh yeah, I have a little Zuk too. Daily driver.

Its really simple. For a non HO engine (pre 91), you use injectors from the Mustang 5.0. They are Bosch 19# yellow top type 2 injectors. You can get them on ebay in sets of 8 for anywhere from 20 to 100 dollars depending on condition. Swapping them in is pretty quick. You will probably need new O-rings unless the seller has already done that. They add power and fuel efficiency since they have multiple output holes providing a better spray pattern.

I have them on my XJ with 6 inches of lift. They work great and you can use stock control arms. They not only allow it to flex nicely, but they eliminated my death wobble. I don't remember hitting any rocks with them, but they are solid, so I wouldn't worry about it.

oops, I meant flares. :mad:

rear TJ coils look nice on the front too. Here's my XJ.

Its not actually coming in through the rubber vent. Seems to be sneaking in the mounting holes for the plastic cover. I'll try fixing it and let ya'll know how it goes.

Seattle in the winter is a annoying. It rains occasionally. Well...frequently. Well, almost non-stop. My Comanche leaks a little, in a good rainstorm, about a quart a day. It pools up near the seatbelt mounts by the doors. I'm not sure, but it looks like most of it is coming from those black vents in the side by the windows. Anybody tried sealing these? I'm thinking about using black silicone on the old rubber seal. Or I could replace the seal, or I could use clear sealant around the outside. Let me know if you know something that works.

On my cherokee I replaced the vent windows with fixed ones. Two reasons. One, they leaked. Two, they made it SOOOO easy to break into (electric door locks - use coat hanger). This was nice whenever I locked my keys inside, but otherwise was kinda scary. Also, I don't smoke. The replacement was easy, and it didn't leak at all after that.

I've been looking at Rocky Road SPOA lift too (just the rear SPOA part). Looks like for the D35 it fits pretty nice. If I had a D35 I'd probably get one since its bolt on and CHEAP. However, I have a D44 and they don't make one for it yet. But I don't see why it wouldn't work just fine. There's no way it can rotate since it slides into the bottom of the old perches. And you reuse the spring plates so you don't need to add a shock mount. Looks good to me.

Also, -Bailing Wire, Wire cutters -plumbers tape -vise grips -duct tape Good for temporarily reattaching parts long enough to get off the trail....

Some Pioneer 4x6 speakers for the MJ. A CB antenna with mounting kit. A couple coffee Thermoses. Lots of Coffee and Chocolate. Couple Harbor Freight gift cards. My father in law is supposed to get me a CB when he gets back from Hawaii. (c=

Thanks guys. It went pretty well. Parts were $75. Thats for 2 bearings per side (about $10 each), seals ($30), and grease ($5). The first side took me about an hour. The second only 30 minutes. It sounded like a coffee grinder before. Now there is ablsolutely NO sound or vibes from the wheels. Like night and day. Thanks again.

Not quite that easy. My XJ is 4wd. My MJ is 2wd. I don't think the XJ axles will fit real well... If I swap, the whole assembly has to go in.

The front end of my new 2wd longbed is in desperate need of wheel bearings. The cheapest solution would be to put in my perfectly good XJ axle assembly (minus driveshaft), however, that would take about 6 hrs, and the weather sucks and my friends do not seem excited about working 6 hrs in bad weather. The other option is replacing the wheel bearings. I haven't tried this on an XJ/MJ. I noticed the bearings themselves only seem to cost $20. What else do I need to replace these? Is this an easy job? Thanks.

Here's mine. [/img]

They are open on one side. Just need to slide them the right way.

you can get stock-ish ones from napa for $25 or so. But they still suck, and only last a few years. I went for M.O.R.E. "bulletproof" mounts. The bushing is completely incased in steel, and they are pretty unbreakable, although I think I shelled out over $100 for them. When I got them, they were available with Poly bushings or Rubber. Poly being tougher, but very noisy, as the engine vibes shake the whole vehicle. Rubber is still tough, but reduces the vibration a bit. I got the rubber ones.

Hey, mines the same color. Leave it. Long live the smurf trucks!!!

I'll give this a shot though I may be wrong. I believe part time means that both driveshafts are moving at the same speed. You are only supposed to use it on wet, or slippery surfaces. Once you hit dry pavement, you have to turn it off. Full time has a differential between the front and rear driveshafts. It allows all four wheels to move at different speeds if necessary. Therefore, there's no reason you can't drive it on dry pavement. The only problem is if you completely lose traction on one wheel, the other three can sit still while it spins. In those cases, you can swich into part time, so two wheels are guaranteed. I have an NP242 and I like it a lot. I only switch to part time when it gets really tricky.

Yeah, no drilling. There's one or two screws on the top of the door, and I think a torx bolt or something inside the door panel. Its a little tricky getting it tilted right to pull out, and even trickier getting the angle to get a new one back in, but it eventually works. I think I have pics of this.

Here's where I put mine (velcro). Never had a problem with it. I'm pretty proud of the nifty cup holder as well.

There's not much to wiring it. Just needs power, ground, and an antenna. On my XJ, I think I used a spare power connection in the fusebox. On my samurai, I just spliced into the radio power. As for location, its personal preference. I like to buy compact ones and velcro them right onto the dash. Easy access and easy removal. But the older ones might be a little too heavy for velcro. I have some pictures on my other computer. I'll try to find one.

Thats funny. I was thinking of doing the same thing. If I can't find a way to wire it, pad it, duck tape it or something like that I'll just toss a board in as well. Thanks.

Build sheet under standard equipment shows QB3S, "intense blue pearl coat". Strangely, under optional equipment it also lists PB3, "intense blue pearl coat". I'm not sure why its listed twice. Under Optional equipment it also shows DRKP "Dana 44/226MM Rear Axle". That was a suprise since the seller told me it had a D35. I looked closer. Turns out it is a Dana 44. Pretty nice suprise. Turns out I don't need to find an 8.8 after all.

My comanche has a special feature that must be for taller people. When you sit on the bench seat, you sink down about 4 inches. Its actually fairly comfortable, but not optimal for driving. I was wondering if anyone has tried fixing a a sagging bench seat before. I'm thinking about running some more wire through the springs or even sliding a piece of canvas or something underneath. I've heard of people packing pool noodles under the seat, etc. Just wondering if anyone has tried to fix this problem before. I don't think replacement benches are so easy to find, so I thought I'd give a shot at fixing it.