zagscrawler

I do plan on running a long arm set up (clayton is my fave so far) when i put all the lift and 4x4 parts on this bad boy, is that going to make a difference with rubbing the lowers? I keep hearing around 4-4.5 inches is real common backspacing, am i mistaken? Also if some one can post a pic or two of the 35's with a similar backspacing i would like to see what i am going to look like :D thanks all

Does anyone know the proper backspacing i need to run to clear 35x12.5 KM2 on a 15" rim. The front should be lifted around 6.5 inches when all is said and done. Its a hp dana 30. Thanks in advance.

Well mine turns over soon as i hit start on my ignition switch. Mine is an 88 4.0L 2x4 and I'm not sure if the starting system changed in between the years. Anyone else have any info on the location of the starter relay in a 90 4.0L and also if it is triggered by the ecu or the ignition switch directly?

I'm headed out to tinker around with my MJ in a few. ill double check that my truck starts immediately like i think. There is a starter relay i believe on one of the fenders. If you can determine which one it is you can use your multi-meter again to check where the lag is coming from. I'm not sure which wires are what but with some time i think you could figure it out. Good luck and ill look around on the net for some diagrams and whatnot and give any help i can.

Also don't mean to rant but in a fuel injected vehicle you should, imo, always give it a solid second or three to let the fuel pump prime before you start it anyway. Just good practice if you ask me good luck.

I'm new to jeeps as well so this may happen to me without warning as well. Mine does not lag when i hit the start possition with my ign. switch, not to say there is not a relay that gives power to the trigger lead on the starter solaniod. I would take a multi-meter of sorts and connect it to the trigger input pole, or stud, on the starter itself. Its usually the one with only one wire and is smaller than the rest in size visually. Have your meter set to volts dc (usually -- lines vs a sidewase s) and put the meter in the window and check the timing between when you turn the key and when your meter gets 10+volts. If there is a delay at all i would say there is a relay in place and its acking up, if you get proper volts and then there is a delay i would say grab a new solinoid and give it a shot. If its not the soliniod i would check the wear on the teeth on your flywheel and make sure things engage mechanicaly like they should. Good luck friend. :wrench: After rereading this i guess a sticky or gunky ignition switch can act this way as well but i would still start there.

I do plan on using them personally as they are almost new and are the size i was looking for. Jokingly the guys at my shop next door to the one selling them said to me they remember seeing the truck when he first got them and has more miles on them pulling them in and out of the shop then on the road :rotf: I really trust the people selling them and the seller is working with me on payments so i think I'm committed to grabing them. I really appreciate the feedback so far on this and it has helped me feel better about the whole purchase. If something goes wrong i know these guys are cool enouph to work with me if needed. So with that said ive got one more question. Can someone point me in the dirrection of some good info on running these tires? Like preasures in mud vs. rock crawling with out bead locks. Maybe also some of the more common failures of the KM2s. Thanks all

Thanks for the info Ryman. I was getting no where near that low of price on new ones if i was to buy them with out a wheel tire combo deal. If i remember correctly 225.00 was around the cheapest and up to 299.00 when i googled prices. If infact i can get new ones for near the pricing you mention then this definatly changes things. I am not a huge fan of used tires in the first place and would save a bit more to get new ones if i can find them that cheap. Oh and i might be wrong on the brand of the spare tire but i know i read mudd terain on the side of it but i didn't see KM2 anywhere on it and the tread pattern is obviously different the the tires marked KM2. Again thanks for the response :cheers:

Thats the one. :cheers: Money well spent if you ask me.

A shop near me has customer that is selling 4 used KM2s and a brand new BFG mud terrain, as a spare, for 700 bucks. The KM2s have about 80 - 90% life on them and like mentioned the mudder is new. 35- 12.5-15s on all tires. Also the tires have toyota steelies on all five with them. Ill be selling the wheels to recoupe some cash i hope. They seem real solid and don't see any plugs or bad damage. Any thoughts?? Thanks guys I'm breaking the bank to make this happen so i need it to be a good deal. Been looking at new ones and the prices are up there, but i know some people have real nice hook-ups and was wandering if this was on par.

Never been a fan of the 700r4. had one in a mild custom camaro and allways heard....has your trans let go yet?..... My father builds solid th350's and tore into my 700 and was blown away at the borderline failure construction from the factory. Ive heard that the chevy 4LE or what ever the newer version is was much more stout from the get go. Just a thought

In my opinion if you mount the electric fans flat against your radiator then you can do away with your shroud, if your electric ones have built in shrouds, most do. The shroud is ment to direct air flow in a specific direction or in a sence help create a vacuume through the cooling rows of your radiator. The mechanical fan needs the factory shroud because it can only get so close to the fins in the first place..via flex in motor mounts and transmounts and such. In my experience If you can make the mechanical function like it is suposed to then keep it, it flows much better then most electric ones, and put your secondary electric fan on a manual switch and run it when you know you are going to run your rig hard.

If you are set on a quick fix i would deffinitly go with the screw method but pre-drill the hole so it is clean and use the right drill bit size (I would also tap it to a specific size and use a machine thread not wood screw type) to reduce stress when you put the screw in, don't want to crack to spread, and use some sort of epoxy as sealant that sticks to metal and plastic. Most hardware stores carry many types of epoxy. If you don't over tighten the screw and strip out the plastic when installing that should hold for a long time. In all realativity it is easy to hold only 10-20 psi with such a small hole. Good luck man.

thanks much :D

Anyone know if the carrier for the d30 is the same for the high pinion and the low pinion?.

Ive done my fair share of gear setups from ford to ferrari, hell i just finish one for a 39 bugatti t57. I'm not worried about the outcome just finding the damn parts. ive had to reset used gears before and had great luck, i understand its not the best idea but if i can grab a set used for 20-50 bucks ill make it work. I'm also looking for a d44 in the front with the gears or just a good d44 that is worth the new gear set. If i find a better front axle ill def spring for it and new gears but i don't have many options at the moment. On that note anyone have any idea where to find a d44 that will drop right in?

I'm looking for a used set of 4.10 gears for the front. I need them to be in usable condition and doesn't have to be installed onto a carrier. I'm in arizona but I'm willing to check shipping prices from anywhere reasonable. :wrench:

last price i got was 300 for a '88 d30 4.10. seems a little steep to me but he said he would open it up and make sure its in good shape. What is the avg. price for a 98 or newer front axle? Also what year did they stop using the hp d30 4.10 setup in these things? Thanks guys

Does anyone know for sure what axle comes out of a 98 4x4 4cyl 5spd cherokee? If its the d30 hp 4.10geared then does this unit come with the larger u-joints at the hub then the older cherokee's? Ive resorted to junkyard searching for my front axle and would like to get the best d30 out there. Thanks all

you say it makes a grinding noise when in reverse or grinds when you try to force it into reverse? Also if you are on flat ground with nothing around you and start it up and try and put it in first gear with your foot off the brake does it try and creep slowly forward, i mean slowly?

Well the spare motor part sounds nice but as for parting the rest out..... not so much. I do have limited space where I'm at now and think ill hold out for some better parts to start out with. thanks for all the feedback guys

Well my buddy found me an 88 4.0l ax5 231 (21 spline?) 4x4 d30 d35 for a parts truck. Ive allready got a reasonable rear diff and need the rest of the parts to make mine 4x4. He wants 400 bucks and it runs and drives right now. I know the trans is not ideal and the front axle will not match my rear gears out of the gate but I'm sure i can regear it easy enouph. My big question is is it worth it to grab the truck use the available drive train to get me going in 4x4 and possibly regearing the front to 4.10s and change things to the better models later or wait it out a bit longer for a better donor or parts. I'm going to be running 35s and stock engine. Also the engine from the donor will make a great spare motor for me. Any thoughts? I mean any i am still soaking up all the info i can on my truck and the life style of a jeep owner :D

well darn..... :idea: wait this just means i need to find some rear disc mods lol. So on that note, anyone know of a direct bolt on set of disc brakes that will fit a 98 8.25. If i have to use zj rears and cut the center i will but looking for a bolt on. I just put on a new master cyl. but if i have to replumb and replace its cool. long as i get disc in the rear. Also the front brakes on my beast are in need of some reworking. If there are a better (larger) set that will bolt to a d30 from a later model jeep i would love to know where to start looking. Thanks again, Zag

Sweet man thanks. i can handle a die grinder like the best of them. oh and also do you think i can use a stock xj spring plate or do you think i can get away with spreading the holes in my mj plates?

Does anyone know if i can put my d35 backing plates onto my new (to me) 8.25. My truck in an 88 and the 8.25 came out of a 98 cherokee. Thanks Zag