llhat

i posted in the DYI section on an OLD post, a member suggested I link to it here for any 'new' input and responses, as the images in that old post are dead.

was there not a thread about the 'correct' and 'best' O2 sensors available 'now'?

hate dragging this up from the dead, but... as the images are no longer available, is this the front (nearest radiator) port on the valve cover? and feeding to the air box? seems like a potential solution for the non-fitting J hose on the dorman harnesses....

i attempted to insert the used hard hose into the nipple on the air box, it will not insert.... what did you do to make it work? best i can tell the OD of the hard hose on the harness is 'about' 9/16" (probably metric), but the OD of the fitting on the air box is 5/8" went in a rabbit hole searching for bulkhead fittings.... not so fun seems dorman or someone would mold up a hose like the original with larger end at the end of the J to FIT the airbox.... it is not like there are NO vehicles out there in need of these components.. they made a snit ton of harnesses, why not make em 'right'??

Any other input on this ... either J hose or fitment stated above about a small section of old harness to fit up the smaller dorman hose? Maybe a bulkhead connector sized for the dorman j hose relocated to a new hole ??

purchased my 89 pioneer in 1997 with 72k on speedo, a one-owner I drove it on a 27mile one way to work on a regular basis until about 2001, when driven often, it was reliable and would do 23mpg on occasion, consistent 21 I changed jobs, did not drive it as much, still have it, but regulated to 1000mi / year max estimated. just recently had some issues, now sorted out ... with exception of rear main seal @ 169k miles just unsure if a RMS replacement would even work.... would like to have it painted, but that is now even more expensive... probably more than truck value. to me, anytime a vehicle sits more than driven, costs increase to keep em going. and YEP parts are more difficult to find !!!

but.. it looks like there's a clear coat issue on top of the blue... like my dark gray pioneer.

after going back and again checking the items suggested by OHM (thank you!) the only other thing left was a TCU I looked thru evilbay, and finally sourced a unit the seller indicated was working (he also offered a 'cheep' unit but stated "parts only). I communicated with them and he would not indicate 'that one' would be a good unit. Not the 'best' of $$$ deals, but.... (if anyone knows of a decent supplier let me know I may buy a spare) Item arrived 11/27 and today i installed, but before doing so re-checked voltages at C232, pins C8 and C9 I did get voltage per the shift position, and I had backup lights.. so the NSS replacement was also a positive, but now even with voltage at the pin with lever in D, no shift, no start in 1 I R&R the TCU with the sourced unit, buttoned it up and knocked on some wood. hoo ray! Have not given a long drive 'yet' but enough to know the vehicle starts moving in gear 1, and shifts on its own. Road was blocked by utility construction, so my drive was cut short, will give er a go a bit later today to test converter lockup I want to extend a BIG to OHM and others that responded to this thread. Hope to repay the favor one day.

just a bump for any additional ideas....

update now... been busy ... then recovering... Lift repair (replace 20 y.o. hydraulic hoses) it's been years since i have been up and down a 12ft ladder so much.... so today I replaced the Neutral Safety Switch on the AW4, with lift it was not "too" bad of a job. Mixed results... I do NOW have reverse lights, and no-start in 'gears', and start only in N or P ( did not have reverse lights initially) but.......... made zero difference in transmission "still" tries to start in probably 3rd gear with selector in D, and when i manually shift to 1, i get 1 was tired so walked away from it. I think next is to go back a few posts and Key ON C234 not connected to TCU Gearshift "1" position c234 D7-C8 voltage? Gearshift "D" position C234 D7-C9 voltage? tired today... will drop lower dash again tomorrow and test unless something else is suggested... i have since also installed new positive and negative battery leads and cleaned grounds.

once i get to this I will update I send a sincere Thank you for all of your assistance

today's test. Key ON C234 not connected to TCU No, BU lamps not illuminating Gearshift "1" position c234 D7-C8 11.8v (backstab) Gearshift "D" position C234 D7-C9 no voltage would make assumption TCU not getting signal for D position, and running shift logic engine starts only in P or D lever position. I have a NSS here, (new, evilbay procured) also making assumption it is correct (taiwan) noting the 8 cavity female terminal has only 6 terminals active cavity D & F are blank. do not know 'when' i will install it, or go through the 'rebuild' of the original switch. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoNSSrebuild.htm removal is necessary for either path. thoughts?

i understand where you are going. these are telling the TCU 'what i want to do' will test tomorrow and report question.. C9 and C8 fed from NSS? I will look at diagram while watching tv tonite. thank you!

ok, now maybe something to get out of the rabbit hole, C234 disconnected from TCU, C114 connected under hood. C234 terminal D7 continuity to chassis ground ( door hinge for negative) C234, Backstab D7, C16 = 15 ohms C234, backstab D7, C15 = ~14 ohms C234, backstab D7, C14, 13.5 ohms I still cannot explain 'why' no continuity when checking female side of C114, and of interest C114 cavity B will not check to ground continuity. but i have not backstabbed C114 on any terminal. but at C234, it would seem the solenoids are 'ok' and the harness to the transmission and solenoids is 'ok' what conclusions can be now obtain, or next test ?

thanks again, i believe that is the path forward, but it will have to wait until i get my lift functioning again, to old and fat to work on the ground or concrete. I did just now pull apart C114 and again on female side (to transmission) could not get a read between "B" (ground) or G, F, or E I CAN see the edge of the terminal and have confidence i am contacting the terminals on the face of the connector. it is almost impossible it seems to back probe those on that connector. I do wonder a bit if there's a way to verify @ c234 C16 to D7 for S1, C15 to D7 for S2, C14 to D7 for S3 ? C16 is output from TCU S1 through C114, D7 is ground. Just a wondering how that stationary cable could just go 'bad' from C114 to transmission... Can understand if maybe one of the solenoid wires inside the case deteriorated inside the pan and 'poof' but all 3??

Connector 234, detached from TCU negative to body ground, my probe would not enter on face of connector, so back probed D14 12.6 volts ignition switch ON D16 11.6 volts (fluke meter) also checked D7 continuity to ground. OK. Again, thanks in advance for your troubles. Next?

with c234 plugged in to TCU and back probed or unplugged and from face of connector? not sure when i will sign back in...

again Ohm, thank you for the response. today voltmeter (fluke) negative to negative battery terminal Diagnostic 1, Pin 5 Ignition OFF 12v confirmed Ignition ON Diagnostic2, Pin 4, 12v confirmed also checked reference voltage at TPS (square terminal) based on prior TPS checking instructions... OK for reference voltage and output D to A and D to B next... i have found on evilbay a few TCU, but NO one indicates if there good or not... and there's a difference in mounting brackets some the bracket is offset to the side, mine is on centerline of unit.

yes, and the fuse has continuity and checks 12v to ground on both sides of the fuse (the top of the fuse has a window that allows access to a probe. the 7.5 amp fuse in the fuse panel also checks OK.

Ok, tried this today... believe i had the correct terminals anyhoo, but with C234 unplugged from tcu negative to metal dash panel, positive probe to face of D14 no volts switch on, positive to D16, no volts. Have voltage to both sides of 10amp fuse What feeds D14/D16 ? (i did not test diag1 pin 5 or diag2 pin 4... wish i knew someone with a scan tool for renix close...

thanks, i have been driving/ manually shifting. about to the point of investigating again, have some other tasks to handle. I am still perplexed that I cannot get a solenoid reading through the connector.. and when i get my lift fixed I will just drop the transmission pan and get some long leads to test from connector terminal to the solenoid connector. I found in giggle search the part number for the solenoid harness, but of course long discontinued.... not even seeing anything for used ones out there. I will also confirm 12v at the tcm connection. I have a new NSS, but do not think that is anywhere near the issue. grasping for straws.

thanks for that and an 'update' yesterday i modified the pins on a cheep multimeter so they would insert into the female side of c114 (thinking not getting connection was reason for not being able to test solenoid windings at the connector) no change. Found in some info there's a thru-connector on transmission for the wiring to penetrate the transmission case. I was going to raise vehicle on my lift to check this out, but experienced a hydraulic line failure.... *&%$& ... pretty much too old to crawl around on floor, so this will be on back burner... moving on to other tasks on MJ... I know i have power to TCU... and as a hail mary yesterday I removed 'cover' from TCU to examine board for any obvious blown resistors or caps... nuttin Out of all this, it is leading me to a harness failure... which to me is 'strange'... but certainly murphy's law prevails. can't see how it would just fail again, thanks for those pin-outs... Is there a method on the D1/ D2 for testing of signal "to" the solenoids?

thank you for the response. i have a hard copy of the manual you attached. so confirming Male pin side of C114 goes to TCU, not the transmission. Pin B is the ground and there's continuity to the negative battery terminal. Female side of C114. Probing mating of pin B and any of the solenoid female cavities I get nothing... that is the present confusion. Solenoids 1, 2 and 3 ground to the internal body of the transmission... so, next will be a test of female cavity b to engine/transmission ? I also have found in other manual a through-connector to transmission body, I think near flywheel on passenger side. One now has to believe the harness is bad... which is strange in itself (scratching my head) I'm now guessing a pan drop is in order and probing the connector from s1, s2, s3 to the female side of C114 What would be of course helpful would be the cavity on the diagnostic port (which one) and could it be probed to see if +12v is being sent to solenoid from the TCU sure would like to get it fixed, tired of shifting manually.

I cut a piece of the hard tube from the old harness and it fit into the airbox opening and tube nicely. About 1-1/2 inches of the old tube is all that's needed ok on hard tube from old harness, but did you create a new hole or what? thanks.