llhat

purchased my 89 pioneer in 1997 with 72k on speedo, a one-owner I drove it on a 27mile one way to work on a regular basis until about 2001, when driven often, it was reliable and would do 23mpg on occasion, consistent 21 I changed jobs, did not drive it as much, still have it, but regulated to 1000mi / year max estimated. just recently had some issues, now sorted out ... with exception of rear main seal @ 169k miles just unsure if a RMS replacement would even work.... would like to have it painted, but that is now even more expensive... probably more than truck value. to me, anytime a vehicle sits more than driven, costs increase to keep em going. and YEP parts are more difficult to find !!!

but.. it looks like there's a clear coat issue on top of the blue... like my dark gray pioneer.

after going back and again checking the items suggested by OHM (thank you!) the only other thing left was a TCU I looked thru evilbay, and finally sourced a unit the seller indicated was working (he also offered a 'cheep' unit but stated "parts only). I communicated with them and he would not indicate 'that one' would be a good unit. Not the 'best' of $$$ deals, but.... (if anyone knows of a decent supplier let me know I may buy a spare) Item arrived 11/27 and today i installed, but before doing so re-checked voltages at C232, pins C8 and C9 I did get voltage per the shift position, and I had backup lights.. so the NSS replacement was also a positive, but now even with voltage at the pin with lever in D, no shift, no start in 1 I R&R the TCU with the sourced unit, buttoned it up and knocked on some wood. hoo ray! Have not given a long drive 'yet' but enough to know the vehicle starts moving in gear 1, and shifts on its own. Road was blocked by utility construction, so my drive was cut short, will give er a go a bit later today to test converter lockup I want to extend a BIG to OHM and others that responded to this thread. Hope to repay the favor one day.

just a bump for any additional ideas....

update now... been busy ... then recovering... Lift repair (replace 20 y.o. hydraulic hoses) it's been years since i have been up and down a 12ft ladder so much.... so today I replaced the Neutral Safety Switch on the AW4, with lift it was not "too" bad of a job. Mixed results... I do NOW have reverse lights, and no-start in 'gears', and start only in N or P ( did not have reverse lights initially) but.......... made zero difference in transmission "still" tries to start in probably 3rd gear with selector in D, and when i manually shift to 1, i get 1 was tired so walked away from it. I think next is to go back a few posts and Key ON C234 not connected to TCU Gearshift "1" position c234 D7-C8 voltage? Gearshift "D" position C234 D7-C9 voltage? tired today... will drop lower dash again tomorrow and test unless something else is suggested... i have since also installed new positive and negative battery leads and cleaned grounds.

once i get to this I will update I send a sincere Thank you for all of your assistance

today's test. Key ON C234 not connected to TCU No, BU lamps not illuminating Gearshift "1" position c234 D7-C8 11.8v (backstab) Gearshift "D" position C234 D7-C9 no voltage would make assumption TCU not getting signal for D position, and running shift logic engine starts only in P or D lever position. I have a NSS here, (new, evilbay procured) also making assumption it is correct (taiwan) noting the 8 cavity female terminal has only 6 terminals active cavity D & F are blank. do not know 'when' i will install it, or go through the 'rebuild' of the original switch. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoNSSrebuild.htm removal is necessary for either path. thoughts?

i understand where you are going. these are telling the TCU 'what i want to do' will test tomorrow and report question.. C9 and C8 fed from NSS? I will look at diagram while watching tv tonite. thank you!

ok, now maybe something to get out of the rabbit hole, C234 disconnected from TCU, C114 connected under hood. C234 terminal D7 continuity to chassis ground ( door hinge for negative) C234, Backstab D7, C16 = 15 ohms C234, backstab D7, C15 = ~14 ohms C234, backstab D7, C14, 13.5 ohms I still cannot explain 'why' no continuity when checking female side of C114, and of interest C114 cavity B will not check to ground continuity. but i have not backstabbed C114 on any terminal. but at C234, it would seem the solenoids are 'ok' and the harness to the transmission and solenoids is 'ok' what conclusions can be now obtain, or next test ?

thanks again, i believe that is the path forward, but it will have to wait until i get my lift functioning again, to old and fat to work on the ground or concrete. I did just now pull apart C114 and again on female side (to transmission) could not get a read between "B" (ground) or G, F, or E I CAN see the edge of the terminal and have confidence i am contacting the terminals on the face of the connector. it is almost impossible it seems to back probe those on that connector. I do wonder a bit if there's a way to verify @ c234 C16 to D7 for S1, C15 to D7 for S2, C14 to D7 for S3 ? C16 is output from TCU S1 through C114, D7 is ground. Just a wondering how that stationary cable could just go 'bad' from C114 to transmission... Can understand if maybe one of the solenoid wires inside the case deteriorated inside the pan and 'poof' but all 3??

Connector 234, detached from TCU negative to body ground, my probe would not enter on face of connector, so back probed D14 12.6 volts ignition switch ON D16 11.6 volts (fluke meter) also checked D7 continuity to ground. OK. Again, thanks in advance for your troubles. Next?

with c234 plugged in to TCU and back probed or unplugged and from face of connector? not sure when i will sign back in...

again Ohm, thank you for the response. today voltmeter (fluke) negative to negative battery terminal Diagnostic 1, Pin 5 Ignition OFF 12v confirmed Ignition ON Diagnostic2, Pin 4, 12v confirmed also checked reference voltage at TPS (square terminal) based on prior TPS checking instructions... OK for reference voltage and output D to A and D to B next... i have found on evilbay a few TCU, but NO one indicates if there good or not... and there's a difference in mounting brackets some the bracket is offset to the side, mine is on centerline of unit.

yes, and the fuse has continuity and checks 12v to ground on both sides of the fuse (the top of the fuse has a window that allows access to a probe. the 7.5 amp fuse in the fuse panel also checks OK.

Ok, tried this today... believe i had the correct terminals anyhoo, but with C234 unplugged from tcu negative to metal dash panel, positive probe to face of D14 no volts switch on, positive to D16, no volts. Have voltage to both sides of 10amp fuse What feeds D14/D16 ? (i did not test diag1 pin 5 or diag2 pin 4... wish i knew someone with a scan tool for renix close...

thanks, i have been driving/ manually shifting. about to the point of investigating again, have some other tasks to handle. I am still perplexed that I cannot get a solenoid reading through the connector.. and when i get my lift fixed I will just drop the transmission pan and get some long leads to test from connector terminal to the solenoid connector. I found in giggle search the part number for the solenoid harness, but of course long discontinued.... not even seeing anything for used ones out there. I will also confirm 12v at the tcm connection. I have a new NSS, but do not think that is anywhere near the issue. grasping for straws.

thanks for that and an 'update' yesterday i modified the pins on a cheep multimeter so they would insert into the female side of c114 (thinking not getting connection was reason for not being able to test solenoid windings at the connector) no change. Found in some info there's a thru-connector on transmission for the wiring to penetrate the transmission case. I was going to raise vehicle on my lift to check this out, but experienced a hydraulic line failure.... *&%$& ... pretty much too old to crawl around on floor, so this will be on back burner... moving on to other tasks on MJ... I know i have power to TCU... and as a hail mary yesterday I removed 'cover' from TCU to examine board for any obvious blown resistors or caps... nuttin Out of all this, it is leading me to a harness failure... which to me is 'strange'... but certainly murphy's law prevails. can't see how it would just fail again, thanks for those pin-outs... Is there a method on the D1/ D2 for testing of signal "to" the solenoids?

thank you for the response. i have a hard copy of the manual you attached. so confirming Male pin side of C114 goes to TCU, not the transmission. Pin B is the ground and there's continuity to the negative battery terminal. Female side of C114. Probing mating of pin B and any of the solenoid female cavities I get nothing... that is the present confusion. Solenoids 1, 2 and 3 ground to the internal body of the transmission... so, next will be a test of female cavity b to engine/transmission ? I also have found in other manual a through-connector to transmission body, I think near flywheel on passenger side. One now has to believe the harness is bad... which is strange in itself (scratching my head) I'm now guessing a pan drop is in order and probing the connector from s1, s2, s3 to the female side of C114 What would be of course helpful would be the cavity on the diagnostic port (which one) and could it be probed to see if +12v is being sent to solenoid from the TCU sure would like to get it fixed, tired of shifting manually.

I cut a piece of the hard tube from the old harness and it fit into the airbox opening and tube nicely. About 1-1/2 inches of the old tube is all that's needed ok on hard tube from old harness, but did you create a new hole or what? thanks.

I've searched and found prior issues but not exactly... and yep this is a long arsed post... 1989 Comanche 168k 4.0 renix (stock) some time ago, transmission started not shifting, and not taking off in 1st gear (sluggish start). I use vehicle sparingly and just placed shifter to 1 and manually shifted, and also noting no converter lock up. Some other issues got in the way and now started diagnostics using the tips posted elsewhere. Have found some other info online.. one is here https://itsajeepworld.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/auto-trans-diagnosis.pdf but of course do not have the scan tool! So far: Removed lower dash panel to better access fuse panel and TCU Checked, inspected the 7.5 trans fuse in fuse panel ( back probe with 12v test light to ground, both sides of fuse, OK) removed and checked continuity OK Checked, inspected the 10 trans fuse in the in-line holder ( back probe with 12v test light to ground, both sides of fuse, OK) removed and checked continuity OK Under hood, found the gray connector and separated, could see 'nothing wrong' with internal connections so, first question... the connector side with MALE pins, can you confirm it is From the TCU or is it to Transmission? a FSM diagram shows male pins from TCU and female to the transmission I used an on-line manual reference above and found this diagram to identify the pin-outs. 7way.pdf the line of 3 pins, center pin is B, I checked continuity between this pin and negative battery terminal .4 ohms, so that is reaching ground. I tried probing between this same pin and others, no continuity to any So proceeded to female side 7way female.pdf used probe to check from middle pin on 3 row to battery.... no connection. I also probed to what should be the transmission solenoids looking for 12-13 ohm range... Get open circuits. actually same as the male side, no continuity to any cavity to B I was HOPING to find an open SOL 1 before i dive into the transmission internal connections... but with nothing, at an impasse What i have YET to do is probe from Center female on 3 row to Engine/Transmission body... thinking maybe internal ground connection in transmission. any assistance appreciated... and what am i overlooking? I have not tried plugging everything back up and test shift/ take off.

well to update... I had it towed and hired it out... just did not want to lay on ground/grass/ gravel and I could not get it in my shop by myself without it running. Just got it back yesterday reported to me first pump was defective out of box, but second a charm believe this shop sources from Car Quest.... then starter failure ... crap... told them to fix it... drove it home from shop. next... new battery cables, and figure out the aw4 transmission issue... (must manual shift)

thanks to Ohm and gogmorgo ... appreciate the method to direct wire the pump easily... great test. I did try the jumper on the start relay, connecting removed wire to + battery pump does run, even with the wires to ballast resistor completely disconnected and those two wires NOT jumpered I let pump run in jumpered state and 'still' no pressure showing on gage connected to schrader valve on fuel rail... even after a minute. so i'd guess that would disprove anything with any of the relays under hood... guess now it is time for lying on ground and checking @ fuel filter, inlet and outlet. looked back in records, dang been a long time since pump replaced, but only about 60 miles since i filled up with 14 gallons of fuel, so gogmorgo may be on to something amiss in the tank just NOT wanting to go there... I had put a new tank in years ago... now wondering IF i have to drop the tank, as I remember it was a tight fit for access to the pump bung on the tank...

"finally" had a chance for more diaganostics don't sound too good... I started with 'jumping' the ballast resistor, but went from terminal to terminal with wires still attached. still same situation as described in OP. I then retrieved my fuel pressure gage, attaching to the schrader valve on the fuel rail. Hit the switch... uh oh no pressure. checked to ensure i had gage fully connected, it was. when starting i will burble and hit a cylinders and die. IF i hold down the switch to starting position, it will burble .... and die. I CAN hear the pump cycle for a few seconds next i made a jumper for the ballast resistor removing the ceramic from the equation completely the pump 'seemed' a bit louder, but no fuel pressure showing on gage... IF i try starting repeatedly, I can see gage flutter just a bit and if i cycle switch a few times it will burble longer. if i hold switch on start, it will fire but never get rpm increase to even an idle so in effect no fuel (and i know i takes 39psi to run. to rule out gage, I removed and then depressed schrader valve manually.. nuttin so.. i guess start with filter... see if i get flow on output end, then input end. I have replaced this pump and filter, will need to look back how long ago. wonder about regulator, could be defective? no vacuum = higher pressure its only been hundred or so miles since fill up so pretty certain not out of gas in tank... 23 gallon I know gage is off, but even then I have run gage down even further than it is now without running out and it only took ~17 gallons to fill. not looking forward to pulling that pump, but seems that is the direction unless i missed something..

i can only pray it is that simple !! will be a couple of days before i can reexamine. thanks for the responses thus far.