tbrand

Yeah, but then you would have had the fuel gauge polarity/accuracy problem unless you could find an MJ HO sender. And those are tough to find - only for two years were they made........... What if I have a HO XJ sender? I have a spare HO XJ in my shop that I am going to strip down for the MJ. I believe the MJ and the XJ are opposites - the XJ would read full at the same resistance as the MJ would read empty.

When dealing with any rear electrical stuff, it's a good idea to check the ground behind the left tail light.

My 4.0 idles high. I've heard that disassembling and cleaning the throttle body can help, but I haven't gotten around to it yet.

In order to make this of any use in my truck, I'd need a -4wd transmission -transfer case -3.55 rear axle What else?

So, essentially, a lower number (3.08, for example) is oriented more toward cruising and mileage than, say, 4.56?

I wondered what that little bit of metal hanging off one of the bolts was. It was so covered in grime that I couldn't read it before. I assume the "3.08" stamped on it means that this front axle is not the one I'm looking for. Thanks for the info, guys.

Real dumb, but how do I know what my rear axle ratio is? I believe mine's a D35, 4.0 BA10/5, 2wd (obviously).

... and would it be a worthwhile upgrade to my 2wd '89? http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/pts/2049021985.html

That looks like a lot of fun, but I would guess not so much more than a regular old PWC to justify the cost.

Heh, I was at both Ecology locations today. No MJ's to be found. Also, I'm thinking about going with these lights, as it seems that decent originals are nigh impossible to find. http://www.euramtec.com/catalog/parts.php?section=C1 - they're the A-7180's. I found a thread somewhere that said they ended up being about $15/each shipped, or you can go here http://www.infiniteinnovations.com/main.asp?p=4_179 and they seem to have them too.

I stopped off at a couple of junkyards today, looking for a set of bucket seats and any other tasty bits that previous scavengers may have left behind. Neither one had a single Comanche. Plenty of XJs with interiors in various states of decrepitude, but nary an MJ to be found, nor even an XJ with a decent set of blue buckets. Harrumph. Time to try some new yards, I suppose.

Cool. I know prices vary widely from region to region and JY to JY, so I didn't want to get all excited over those kind of prices if there were better deals to be had.

Pulling up your carpets is a pain, but if you can catch the tinworm before it starts eating through your floors, you'll be very glad you did. MJ's typically rust from the inside out - water gets into the cab and is trapped in the carpet/pad. If you browse through the Project MJ forum, you'll notice just how many people have had to re-do their floors due to rust. Be careful with the trim - old plastic doesn't take kindly to brute force, and MJ-specific bits are pretty darn hard to find.

So the junkyard that I go to for work a few times a week for work is having a sale on interior bits. The girl said that if I was interested, I could get a pair of buckets for somewhere between $40 and $80. The question is, if I find a nice set of Cherokee buckets, is $80 a good price? I haven't done much junkyard shopping, so I don't know what to expect. I'd love to find MJ buckets, but those seem to be rarer than hen's teeth, and it sounds like making XJ seats work isn't too hard. I just want to be rid of my saggy bench.

Did you have the automotive equivalent of 500 million angry bees coming from just below and behind your passenger door? Good times. Lucky for me, that muffler is the rustiest part of my Jeep.

This is the inside of my cat, which seems to look ok. However, when I turned the whole mess up on end, a bunch of chunks fell out the tailpipe - I assume from the rotten muffler. We do have emissions inspections, but I got a two-year certification and I hope to be moved away before that expires, so the cat isn't a huge deal. Every job I do on this truck shows me a deficiency in my tool arsenal - in this case, it's a Sawzall (or at least a hacksaw) and some type of welder. Well, that and some instruction in the use of said welder. Sawzalls seem to need no instruction - just a few beers. Anyway, I fired it up for a quick trip around the block sans exhaust, and while it was way too loud for a DD under acceleration, I found the burble at idle (and just above) quite agreeable. It reminded me of the sound you get out of a lot of 50's vintage rides, mostly thanks to the straight-six layout, I'm sure. Any suggestions for a muffler that would quiet things down for DD duty while leaving some character (and a few bills in my wallet?)

What's wrong, errant exhaust gases entering the cab due to bonehead installation isn't the proper method? :D Yeah, I suppose bolting it back up won't be too hard. Getting the bolts out was the worst part - I can't imagine what it's like for any of y'all in the rust belt.

All right gents, here's where I find myself today. I decided it would be easier to pull the whole exhaust system out rather than fight with it under the Jeep. I may have gotten in a little over my head here. :doh: What's the next step? The muffler is obviously toast, but I have no idea about the catalytic converter. Is there a way to get it tested? If it's still good, I'll put some more effort into getting them apart, but if it's bad, I won't bother. Basically, now that I've gotten it all taken apart, I need to figure out what is good, replace what's bad, and get it put back together.

... and the wrath of my wife :) http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/2097229178.html Sounds a lot like mine - I'll be interested to see what kind of shape it's in.

Sicily? Are you stationed at Sigonella?

I just got the middle-range stuff from my local NAPA for my tune-up and it all worked fine. Better than the ancient stuff on there, so it was good enough for me. General opinion here seems to be avoid Fram oil filters and platinum plugs - apparently they don't play nice with the 4.0. I've never used either, so YMMV. :dunno: Brake lines, I would think any competent auto parts store would have both the rubber lines and the hard ones if you need them. Like I said, I've had good luck with NAPA, but Autozone was the only local place with a clutch master cylinder when I needed it. Shop around.

If you do one job, you might as well do the other. For me, getting the oil pan on and off was more difficult than getting the RMS out (and that was a pain). Parts-wise, both jobs should be <$50 if you already have tools (torque wrench is key on the RMS job).

I don't know about mileage, but that would be a $4-5k XJ here in AZ. For some reason, their perceived value is quite inflated.

Sounds like it doesn't matter which motor you have, as it's not the main source of propulsion. :D

Do Canadians get their milk in a bag? :D