warf90

I also had broken springs when I lifted mine. With the new springs and SOA, mine netted about 8" of lift. I installed some XJ rear shackles and it dropped it about 1". Did a front 6" spring with a spacer and its pretty level. Its also higher than I wanted to be running 33X12.50 tires. Hopefully over time my rear springs will lose some of the arch and settle out a little lower.

Well I finally got it to start, I had the distributor set wrong. I had it running for a while and made sure everything was good and the thermostat opened. Turned it off and everytime you go to start it, it takes for ever to start. Its almost like it is flooding out. My friend said that even before the motor change that sometimes it would just crank and crank. He said that he would have to hold the pedal to that floor to get it to start. CPS going bad maybe? Any thoughts?

Yes I changed the fly wheel also. The motor we installed was from an Automatic XJ. His wrangler is a manual trans. I am going to recheck that I have the distribor right and I will let you guys know what happens. Thanks for all the input and ideas.

I reused his distributor, crank angle sensor, intake with all injector and such. I basically installed a long block. I am starting to doubt myself as far as getting the distributor set right. I am going to check that tonight when I get home. I am going to start over and get it up on tdc and double check and make sure I got it right.

Do you mean the crank angle sensor? Yes it does have one. I have thought of that, the only thing, we reused his old one and it ran fine before we did the engine change.

I just helped my friend put a Motor in his Wrangler. It a 4.0. We got it all back together and it will not start. I have verified fuel pressure and spark. We had to switch distributors. I got it up on top dead center and set the distributor and I doubled checked to make sure we had everything hooked back up. Its not even trying to hit or sound like it is trying to start. Its a 91. Any one have any ideas or maybe you guys can think of something that I have not. Thanks

Sorry JeepcoMJ, I guess I got confused with the repost of the picture. I was just curious how the ranger towed, thats all.

JeepcoMJ, Do you tow with a Ford Ranger?

I would think that you are going to have a set of coil springs for the front. I think that a spacer would not be enough.

Has any one been there? I guess it is located near Maysville KY. What are the trails like? Thanks

CW, I think I am having withdrawls from not seeing your updades on this thread. I am enjoying the write ups and the pics of your build!

I think I would wait for a better deal or sell yours and buy what you really want.

I agree with the air still in the lines. I have bled them alot. I have gravity bled and also had some one pump them up and still no air comes out. I am going to bleed them again once I replace the bad caliper and see what happens.

The light went out, but I am still having issues with my brakes. I am certain that is was not the emergency brake. The reason I know is the light came on when I pushed the brake pedal and it went to the floor. It does that the first time you hit the brake, but after pump the brakes they are good. I also have plugged the bottem port on the block. So now I have just one new line going to the back with no prop valve. I know I have issues with the rear brakes because I clamped off the line going to the rear and I had great brakes. The rear brake set up I have is the TSM kit with the Cadillac eldo calipers and they are junk. This kit was on the rear axle when I bought it. I finally drove it around my house and when I pulled it back into the garage I could smell brakes burning. It was coming from the right rear. I am going to have to replace that caliper and see what happens next. Before driving I gravity bled and also bled the brakes by having some one pump them. I got no air out of the back at all. I am at a loss of what is wrong. Hopefully it has something to do with the right rear claiper. Either way I have to replace it because it is dragging.

I am still trying to get my brakes right after the rear disc conversion and deleating the rear porportion valve. When I was pumping the brakes, the brake light came on in the dash and it will not go out. How do I get the light to go out? Thanks

I had plans to drill it out and install 7/16" bolts any way. The bushings had dimples that stuck out that restricted the bolt size. The hole looked like a 1/2 bolt would have fit but with the dimples you could only get in a metric bolt that was a little larger that a 3/8" bolt size. But now mine are drilled out and a 7/16" bolt was installled.

I have not driven mine in almost 2 months while trying to get the lift on and other things that I am doing to it. I just installed the drop brackets on mine and they are pretty awesome.

The upper bushing in the axle is the same bushing that goes into the upper control arm. I got them yesterday and them installed last night. This is a good thing to know for the future since most of places and catalogs I looked through did not have them even listed.

CW, where did you find a reamer for the steering upgrade to ream out the knuckles and the pitman arm. I just recieved my JCR steering. Man its pretty awesome. I am trying not to spend the $45 from Snap On for the reamer.

I measured a couple things on the rear. I have 33X12.50" tires on it now. From the top of the tire to the bottem of the fender flare is 12" and the fender flare has not been altered or moved up at all. From the ground to the top of the bed is 54 1/2". I should have measured before the installing the new springs and tires. I had 235 75 15 tires on it before the lift. So I do not know what the measurement would have been from the floor to the top of the bed.

Thanks ComancheDude, so according to Rustys they are the same bushings as the ones that go into the upper control arm. That is good to know. Learn something new every day. Thats why this site is so great, I learn something new every day!

I was just thinking about switching back to spring under and see how much lift it has. I already front 6" spring in place, so I don't think it will net that much lift, but who knows it might. I got the springs from Brighton Spring in Cincinnati. I called around and all the spring places told the only replacement springs that were available were the 5 spring pack with a payload number that I do not remember. My old springs were only a 4 spring pack. Obvisously they were for the Metric ton truck I beleive. When I get the front back together, I will expirement with a few ideas and suggestions that you guys gave and see what I can come up with. When I get the front back together I will take a good picture of it and post it. It will show how high it is.

With all the other parts I am replacing, I am going to replace the upper control arm axle mount bushings on my Dana 30. These are the bushings that actually mount in the axle, not the control arms. Does any body know where I can get them with the exception of the dealer? I have had no luck finding them. Are they the same bushings that go into the stock upper control arm that mounts to the body? The only thing the local parts store are showing are the bushings for the upper contol arms themselves. Thanks in advance for everyone's help again. Tim

The springs were replacements and not lifted springs. I think I will try and install the old helper spring and see if it makes a difference. Thanks