skidoo_j

Door locks, windows all work with relay pulled.

It does have power door locks.

Thanks for the pic. I understand how relays work very well. I need to know what this relay controls so I can chase down my short, or just decide if i'm not going to plug it back in. It's the brown recepticle in the cluster of three located under the driverside kick panel.

drum roll........ He never plugged the TCM back in, He didn't realize what it was. I saw it laying on the lower kick panel in the "garbage pile" and asked him if all this time trouble shooting he never had that plugged in.

I'm trying to figure out what the relay that goes into the brown receptacle under the dash on a 92xj controls. There is a cluster of three relays on a bracket that attaches to the kick panel on the driverside. With an aftermarket stereo installed and this relay in place the stereo is always on. If I remove the relay the stereo performs as it should. I've double and triple checked the wiring of the radio. searched for any disconnected or obvious ground errors. Any help would be appreciated. I do not have a stock radio to test, but I've used my multi-meter and a test light. The ign wire at the stereo plug is getting power from the relay through the coil or some other back fed item controlled through this relay. If I try to turn on the blower the deck looses power. All these tests with the ignition off. The pink wire that energizes the coil at this relay has power all the time unless i pull the dome fuse. The other side of the coil at this relay is yellow with a black tracer. vehicle info: 92 4.0 laredo 4x4

Figure we're chasing a phantom ground issue. The Cad axle is original, or someone went through alot of trouble to install all the factory metal tubing from the engine bay to above the control arms. It was manufactured late 91 but the title is for 92. Yes vins match on door and dash.

The turn signal from the non ac was put on the a/c vehicle. The donor was a 92 late in year production.

Have a friend who has a 92 (manufactured late 91). It had a broken steering column. He replaced it with a non-tilt and one with out cruise. When in drive it acts like it will not shift out of 3rd. If he manually puts it in 1st it will burn out. We can't find any loose wires. Any ideas??? (it has vacuum disconnect on the dana 30, which i thought was odd in a "92")

apologies and corrected

So based on responses either the EDM I have is bad? Nobody answered if they have an EDM controlling relays though. I don't have a large load 12 volt that i can test my edm with to eliminate current draw.

I"m thinking it has to do with current draw. I pulled the cover off and there is a 4.7uf capacitor and three transistors. SO I reconnected it and did a test as follows: switch ignition on, switch light on. let sit for 30 seconds, I then disconnected the ignition and allowed it to sit for almost two minutes, I heard the magnet click, let it sit for another 15 seconds then disconnected light switch wire and it stayed on for about 10 seconds. So the question still stands. Does the delay module work for those of you who have "upgraded" your headlights to relays? I was planning to use this on my fan circuit so it would run for 30 seconds after engine is off like my VW does.

I picked up one of Jeep Headlight Delays. It's labeled 56000363 and is made in the USA, I was told it was out of a 1990. I plugged it in and cannot get it to function. The fuse is good. I turned the key to on, and turned headlights on. Let it sit for 3 minutes, then turned key off, waited 10 seconds then turned headlight switch off and the lights turned off immediately. Any Ideas? I have since pulled the relay and have it set up on a bench with a 12v battery and a single light bulb as headlight. My wiring to the battery mirrors that of the truck and I cannot get it to keep the light bulb on following the same switching procedure. I am trying to bench test because I broke my collar bone a few weeks ago and I'm not able to twist to actually test the truck side plug as described in the manual. Is there another way to test this relay? Will the relay still delay the headlights if they've been upgraded to the relay loom?(possible current draw requirement?) Picture of unit I'm referring too: (photo posted by hornbrod) Wiring Diagram I'm following: (also Hornbrod)

Redacted and started new thread.

So the consensus is it doesn't really matter as long as I have matching calipers/ uni hubs/ rotors/ knuckles... Does anyone know if the 91 axle that is non-cad will it be a solid passenger side upper mount or like the 93+ ? Are the new style calipers better than the old brake wise? What year did the unit hub change? I though that it wasn't until 97+?

I'm looking to regear a dana 30. I'm wanting to do it on a spare out of truck axle. So... What year would be the best. I know post 95 they used 297 u joints, but are any years better than others. I already have spare shafts for my current 30 when i converted it to a single piece passenger side(cad eliminated), so I don't know that I want the larger 297 unless i can get a second set at same time, plus that's a fast and quick upgrade. I was thinking the 91 was probably a better axle to start with, but then I"ve not seen a pre 93 non - vacuum. What I plan to do: Eaton Elocker, 4.10/4.11 gears, tube sleeves, maybe gussets on outers. I only run 31" tires. My local j/y has a 91 cherokee with a all-wheel drive version, a 93 , a 95, and a 96.

I'll jump in and agree with Eagle here. I did the swap too. Hoping to negate as much lift as possible as my goal was 4". I used the ruff stuff spring perches. and ground them so they were as short as possible ontop of the tube while still letting the spring center pin not touch the tube. I then used xj shackles. My total measured lift was about 4.25, however i'm in the process of trying to locate MJ shackles again as the xj ones are so short the springs are not able to compress well, giving a very bumpy ride regardless of shocks used.

Found it with a quick search

could someone post photos of this module I have other purposes for it and would like to know what I"m looking for when at jy also possible years to find it.

Found stock length replacements. Iron Roock budget boost. http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-XABBS&Category_Code=PFX

The direction a "boomerang" shackle is installed will not change the effective lift. The only way a shackle with a greater distance between the holes would not cause an increase in lift would be if the main spring changed length, if badly fatigued, or broken. Different springs could also negate the lift from a longer shackle. JKS boomerang will net 1/4" lift. Its minimal but still a lift none the less.

If there is a difference in the distance between the holes then there is a difference in ride height. The shape of the shackle makes no difference in any behavior other than clearance or possibly providing a stop to prevent inversion. Anybody have a set of shackles from an MT MJ to see if they're the same ?

THank you for the measurement. One question... eye to eye the same as center to center? Maybe this is why there are so many discrepancies... I view them as two different measurements, but Maybe I"m incorrect. Here's a drawing as to how I understand the two measurements please correct me if I'm wrong.

I had other sources linked, but I must have exceeded the lines allowed. http://www.quadratec.com/jeep_knowledgebase/article-93.htm http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tech-topic-boomerang-shackles-1379950/ http://comancheclub.com/topic/812-shackle-length/

So I've come to regret installing the XJ shackles on my MJ. That being said I'm trying to find factory ish replacements and am locating alot of mixed information. I no longer have my factory shackles. With that said... What is the Stock MJ shackles length center to center????? I've searched this high and low both on ComancheClub, naxja, and general google. Lengths I've found so far: MJ (4.125, 4.5, 4.75, 5, 5.15), People claim using Comanche shackles on an xj nets 0.75" lift so theory would hold that MJ shackles would be 1.5" longer so 4.625 (4 5/8")? Lengths of other shackles I've found consistent but still may not be true XJ are 3.125, Tomken Machine 4.125" Ironrock IR-XABBS JKS 5.125" Confused because in some places they advertise 1" for both xj/mj with the same product and that's not possible. Rubicon Xpress boomerang 6". edit comanche 4 3/8" by 4 member measurements I've also found that some people are using chevy shackles.... I've found lots of them that match our width, but again varying information on "stock length". I"ve found 4" several times for a stock chevy silverado, so does that mean the 1" drop shackle measures 6" eye to eye or is it' not the same 50% rule because they're inverted? I like the fact that the chevy shackles are half the price of "jeep" shackles. Basic shackle info... Hind sight is always 20/20. I"ve researched this alot and have filtered out alot of the well my uncle bil says bs. Sources: http://comancheclub.com/topic/15988-rear-shackle-interchange-question/?p=161869 Here you can visually see the JKS is longer eye to eye than a set of "factory" mj shackles yet another side by side by another comanche member showing the jks eye to eye about 1" longer than stock:

Examples? Most recent I set up my coolant fan override to also relay with my elocker switch. Also have one i used on my gate controller. I just like them because the diodes are already in the nice little container