Shoveldead

There was a tiny burn mark inside the distributor shaft cavity on the underside of the rotor where the spark had been travelling through it and grounding on the distributor shaft. New rotor and all problems disappeared immediately. Strange is an understatement!

Found the issue. Rotor in the distributor had a invisible to the naked eye hole in it that was allowing spark to ground out from the center contact in the distributor cap to the distributor shaft. That rotor probably had 150 to 200 miles on it. I think compression test was low because of all the gas the injectors had washed the cylinders with. Never seen this problem with any vehicle before. The rotor still looked brand new with no arcing on any of the contacts

At this point, I wouldn't mind finding a good one about any distance!

I personally think it looks better without the 4x4 decals. Too busy and cluttered with those. But the concensus says different!

Performed a compression test. Most plugs were very wet with fuel when I pulled them out. #1 cylinder at 80 psi. All others sitting right around 100 psi on my guage. Seems really low across the board according to the specs I could find. Suppose it could be my tester as well.

Sorry. Tried new cap, wires, plugs. Swapped in new injectors as well. Leaning toward a compression test now

No fuel in the regulator vacuum line. 2 distributors tried, both have been indexed per cruisers instruction, the one that was in it when it started having the problem was indexed exactly the same. Noticed lots of wet fuel on #1 spark plug.

Just tried the new resistor. No joy.

Thanks! I will check that now. I have a known good one if those as well. What exactly does the ballast resistor do in the system?

Let me start by saying, the truck was running beautifully until 2 days ago. Engine died at a stop light. When trying to restart, it stumbles, idles rough, back fires. Won't build rpm. Will run with erratic idle speed and then shut down. Easily restarts with same conditions. I performed all the Cruiser54 tips except for upgrading the sensor ground (those were checked). It does have upgraded grounds and positive cables everywhere else. Things I have tried that did not work, tested and replaced with known good parts the following: ECU, CPS, TPS, IAC, MAP sensor, Coil and Ignition module, distributor, fuel pressure regulator, injectors. Setup distributor per Cruisers instructions. Fuel pressure is 40 psi at the rail and it holds a good long time after you turn it off. Pushed, pulled and twisted all engine wiring looking for a problem, no change. I am out of ideas. Any body have anything else that I havent checked already? Smells extremely rich when its running.

Sounds good. I just need to find one to buy!

I have a nice LWB Sport Bar that I would like to trade for a SWB sport bar. I have all brackets with mine. I would be be willing to drive within 12 hours of Nashville TN to facilitate the trade. My bar is not dented and is not rusted, I ask that yours not be either. I know its a long shot. If you have one for sale I would be interested as well. Thanks!

I live outside of Nashville TN. I might see one a year. There are two in a small town near where I live but they are not in running condition and the owner won't sell!

Purchased multiple CPS. Though many of them work, the voltage output when testing never seems to be as high as Cruiser54 tutorials show. Where is the best place to buy a spare? Part number woukd be great too.

+1 on vacuum issue. As you know the vacuum lines in these things do tend to dry rot and fall apart

I would be willing to drive 10 to 12 hours from Nashville TN for a swap!

I have a Long Bed Sport Bar. I am finishing up my short bed project and was curious if anyone has successfully accomplished the modification of a factory long bed sport bar so that it fits a short bed. I searched here and have found a lot of info on measurements between the two but wanted to know if it has actually been done? How tough was it, and if there are pics out there of the process. I am sure no one out there has a short bed sport bar to trade! But I am open to that!

Thanks!

The seat folding latches seem to be held on with a blind roll pin. I want to install new bezels but can't seem to find instructions on removing the lever handle. This is for the lever on the top side of the bucket seats that allow the seat to fold forward. Any help would be greatly appreciated

That is the piece! The only one I have ever seen! Now I just need to find a ratted out door panel to take it out of. Thanks!

Got my 97+ doors done thanks to all the info here. One question I couldn't seem to find an answer for though. Where is everyone getting the two door switch bezel for the drivers side. Found the 2 door switch assembly without the switches for the rear doors but I can't find the bezel anywhere. Lots of 4 door switch surrounds out there, but no 2 door! Any help would be greatly appreciated. I would post a picture of one but I can't seem to even find that!

I need a set. Please PM me. If your guy isn't making them anymore. Please contact me anyway.