tj21

Want to buy a winch for my '86 Comanche. I'm near Portland, Oregon. Doubt I use it often, so a good value is more important to me than top of the line.

I don't know, what is a full tune-up? Currently I'm tearing apart and cleaning the throttle body, installing new fuel injector, then will install a timing chain & tensioner. I will do the O2 sensor as well. Then I guess spark plugs, wires, distributer & rotor. Air filter looks fine. Belts appear ok, but maybe I should replace to be safe. Anything I'm missing? I have driven the truck less than 1000 miles in the last 10 years. If I get the mileage to be decent I'll start driving it regularly and seafoam the oil and change it often to hopefully clear the gunk up. I'm concerned the gaskets / seals for the valves got dried up with the lack of use, which is why I ask about a valve job. Should I be concerned about the variance in compression between cylinders?

'86 Comanche 2.5L TBI Compression test results, Rear to Front 130/132/148/140 What can I do to get the truck running better? Slow acceleration, very poor mileage 4 mpg, stinky exhaust, lots of emissions. Valve job? Piston rings? I ordered a throttle body kit, new fuel injector, timing chain & tensioner. Photos of gunk buildup:

Year / Make / Model 1987 Jeep Comanche Pioneer Engine / Transmission 6 cyl. Automatic Current Location Tacoma, Washington Status For sale at dealership "The Car Choice" for $2350 229699 miles Website http://www.carsforsale.com/used_cars_fo ... _132726551

Year / Make / Model 1986 Jeep Comanche Custom Name Nelley Engine / Transmission / Drive / Bed 2.5L TBI, Manual 5 spd, 2WD, LWB Build date May (1986? can't read year) Current Location Portland, Oregon Status She drives, but is awaiting my care. History My brother purchased her on August 8, 1991. This was his 2nd truck but always his true love. I purchased the truck from him for $500 on April 25, 2001.

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/2237681522.html I'm no Comanche expert, but would like to buy another to use as parts to repair mine, and swap the 4wd into my 2wd. Is $900 a fair price? Trying to figure out how much these are worth. BTW, I have an '86 that needs many repairs.

My pipes are all rusted out, so exhaust pours out the sides. I'm going to replace those, and thought I'd take a new cat in the process if it was a recall. I don't know how to tell if my cat is bad. The exhaust stinks. My gas mileage sucks. Didn't come close to passing emissions. This could be caused by my vacuum lines not being plugged in, I can't figure out where they go. Truck idles good, and runs good.

Ok, not the answers I was wanting to hear. Attached are some photos I took, hoping someone would tell me its stock before I read the above. One more confirmation after seeing the photos will shut me up.

Was the stock catalytic converter welded? Jeep said I do have a recall they will honor if the cat conv is stock. They looked at it and said its aftermarket since there are weld marks connecting to pipes near the cat. Truck has been in family for nearly 20 yrs with this cat. Surprised it was replaced by previous owners within 5 yrs of truck life.

Did you solve this? I have the same problem with my 2.5L. My TBI fuel injector is spendy to replace, so I don't want to do that until I know its needed.

The sticker under the hood showing the proper gap is gone. Its not listed in my Chilton manual. What gap do I want to use? '86 2.5L Tbi.

NHTSA tracks safety recalls here: http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/recalls/recallsearch.cfm EPA tracks emission recalls here: http://www.epa.gov/otaq/recall.htm#reports EPA records only go back to 1991, so I'm still not sure if my catalytic converter is a recall that Jeep must fix.

Thanks for the link. The number is a TSB, but it says "Recall", and the dealer said it was a recall. I don't know any more than that. I'm surprised it didn't come up at the site you linked, but there were several others for '86 Comanches. I started looking into this hoping the parking brake would be covered since mine is broke. The linked site gave this for the parking brake: http://nhthqnwws112.odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/a ... 147-NN.PDF My VIN is included in the range of recalls for the parking brake. I'll print the pdf and take it to my dealer to see what they say. It would be nice to have this work done for free. I'm not very hopeful since it sounds like this assembly has been discontinued, so I'm not sure what they could do. Still curious on the Catalytic Converter recall. Does anyone have a subscribtion to AllDataDIY.com to look this up? http://www.alldatadiy.com/TSB/04/860420cM.html

The dealer says there is a recall on my vehicle, VIN: GT200249. It does not show up on the Jeep website, apparently because its too old. They said to call Jeep Customer Service. Customer service at Jeep told me to call the dealer. So round and round I go. According to a google search its says: 276T JAN 90 Recall - Replacement Catalytic Converter That site doesn't give any more info without paying for it. The dealer can't look it up either. They said I need to find a dealer that still has it "in the books" since its not recorded electronically. Anybody know where to find more info on this recall, so I can tell them what needs to be done?

I just did mine on my '86 2wd. They are not easy to press out and in, but its doable. Autozone and Oreilly's have loaner tools and you can borrow a ball joint press. Make sure to also get all the specialty press adapters for Chevy/Honda/etc. There's no Jeep adapter there, but you can make the others work. Neither store realized they had the adapters until I pointed to them on there loan-a-tool brochure.

I installed the Hoffman belts. They are okay, I guess. One lap belt had a loose piece of plastic in it and didn't buckle right, so I need to return it. The buckle portion has plastic protection around it which had to be removed to work with my bench seat, which revealed the belt was purple instead of black, so I'm taking that back. The middle lapbelt hole size for the bolt is smaller than the hole size for the 3-points, so you can't use the existing shoulder bolt, instead I used the hardware that came with it and tightened them down all the way. One of the retractables was jammed, but after I called and complained, they sent me instructions on how to fix it. Biggest problem with these universal belts is the molding must be cut, a lot. I haven't decided whether to cut it, or just leave it off. I almost like the look without the panels, but road noise is probably higher. I did notice yesterday that NAPA sells belts. A guy working there said I probably got better quality belts from elsewhere, but I'm not sure how the quality could be worse. I'd recommend anyone to buy locally, either from NAPA, or check other auto parts stores, in case you have the same problems I do and need to return them. Maybe pulling from the junkyard is the way to go. Oh, and don't overtighten the bolts like I did. That screwed everything up big time.

Would be nice to have these.

Mine failed in Oregon with similar results. Now I'm in the process of getting all the vacuum lines plugged in properly to see if that helps. I currently have 4 lines that are dangling with no where to go. Seems like that would kill the emissions test. You may want to check yours as well. I also took it there with 8 year old gas which couldn't help.

The hose won't fit there, its much smaller diameter. Does your picture 3 hose plug into an adapter I'm missing, or is it direct fit into the picture 2 nipple?

Picture 4: Orange hard hose below the alternator.

I need help identifying where two hoses go, and what plugs into one port. Picture 1: Hose from firewall with nowhere to go. Picture 2: Port in Vapor Canister labelled "tank". This goes to fuel tank, but I can't find a loose line or empty port coming from the tank. Picture 3: Hose secured by clips on the firewall. Not sure what its plugged into as it gets crowded, or where it goes.

I have the same problem, did you find a solution? My gauge never goes above 1/4 tank, but it works fine below that.

I was hoping for this as well, and looked for some locked nuts while at NAPA. But when I got home I saw that no threads were exposed. Perhaps if I found a longer shoulder bolt of the same grade this would work.

I understand the saftey-first approach, especially since safety is the sole purpose of the seatbelts. However.... The force on the bolt when in a crash is all shear. If I were to use helicoil, it would only need to prevent the bolt from pulling out, which is on a different axis than the primary force. I need to figure out whether helicoil can prevent the bolt from sliding out. I suppose there is no easy answer for this, since it would vary by car and installation. If the bolt was not exactly perpendicular to the belt pulling on it, there would be more force pulling on the threads / helicoil. A large factor of safety would need to be used because of this. An easier way to know it would work is if specs were available for helicoil strength vs strength of threads on stock welded nut. If helicoil > stock, then all is good.

My new seat belt installation is not going as smooth as I hoped. I could not find torque specs for the bolts, and over torqued them, stripping the threads of both the bolt and messing up the threads in the floorboard. I am planning on trying HeliCoil after researching this problem others have had with different cars. That way I can use the same bolts (I have extras). It looks like tapping and using a bigger bolt may not be possible, since seatbelt bolts are apparently all the same size. A standard grade 5 or 8 bolt would not work properly since the belt can not rotate freely when tightened down. Does anyone know the size of HeliCoil I need? I know its 7/16", but I'm not sure if its 7/16-20 or another size, since I don't know what the "-20" even means. If there is a better approach than this, please let me know. Is it possible to tap a new hole near the old one, and use a locking nut?