tj21

Recently did a cluster swap, and today I purchased a new coolant sender for the gauge. Unfortunately the old one snapped off while unscrewing it. I tried to get it out using a screw extractor with no luck. I pounded the extractor in enough to punch through the bottom of the old sensor, so now coolant bubbles up. Any advice on getting the old piece out? Here's a couple pictures of my mess. I took the valve cover and heater hose off for better access with the extractor. The coolant in there is just spillage from me.

Yep. I took it out and snapped the photo while it was still draining.

Awesome, thanks.

Found this broken wire. How do I fix it? Do I need to take the connector apart? Get a new connector with wires from the junkyard and splice together?

Can someone please help me locate the coolant temperature sensor on my '86 2.5L? I have looked for over an hour. EDIT: Found it just after posting this. Now how do I test it? Here's photos for the next guy locating the sensor:

Please let us know if you find something to work. My doors haven't been locked in 10 years. Not much to steal in there, but would be nice to have the option of locking.

Got frustrated with the brakes barely working. Replaced the rear wheel cylinders, turned the drums, and new shoes. The cylinders were shot, squirting fluid everywhere. I'm not a fan of working on brakes, especially drums/shoes, but its done now, except for the bleeding. Will do that tomorrow, and hopefully the brakes slow me down faster than downshifting now.

The cluster lights are working now. I needed a new headlight switch. Bought part number S940 from Oreillys. Now my next problem... The new oil pressure sender from Autozone part number PS133 will not fit in my 2.5L. There is a motor mount in the way. Is there another one to buy for the 2.5L?

Here's the link to adjust the odometer. I just did it so my new cluster would match the original. Its easy to do. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=921205

Still looking for tips on this problem.

I decided to pull a cluster from an unknown year XJ for my '86 MJ 2.5L, without doing my research first. Is it supposed to work? My old cluster would not light up, so I couldn't see my speed at night. You'll see in the picture below that it was all messed up in the back, so I had hopes the new one would light up, and I'd have a tach & gauges. I adjusted the new odometer to match my old, then plugged it in. Still no dash lights. Also it looks like I need a different speedometer cable since the clips are different.

2.5L w/ TBI starts up fine while cold. If I drive it a while and it warms up, it is very difficult to restart. I finally figured out that if I press the gas pedal in all the way in to clear the fuel, it starts up good, even when warm, so I assume it floods. I have searched around for others having this problem, and it seems to happen on trucks that were sitting for long periods of time like mine. I have recently done these repairs without any affect on the flooding: Cleaned throttle body, new fuel injector, new O2 sensor, new cat converter & muffler & exhaust pipes, new spark plugs & wires & cap & rotor. What could be causing the flooding?

'86 Comanche manual transmission. The clutch has been fine until today. It is very difficult to shift while the engine is on. I have to force it into each gear. Grinding when forcing into reverse. With engine off, while in gear and clutch depressed the truck doesn't roll downhill like it should. When I move it to neutral it rolls normal. Do I need a new clutch? Pedal adjustment?

Pick-n-Pull South Porltand Pick-n-pull South Portland

Let me know if you see anything you like (or something I should take for myself that is rare) and I might be able to pull it for you before it gets shredded. I took the bench chair.

I'm still learning what is rare, but will pull all the black I can this week. I have a black exterior '86 myself, and would like to replace the tan interior. VIN 1JTMU6416JT041663. I will post pictures on the VIN board soon.

Got this nice bench seat installed. Found at the jy with no tears.

See my thread just a couple down: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=30272 Looks like it will all be direct fit for $200. Just waiting for the parts to arrive.

I ended up buying the parts from Rock Auto & Amazon & Autozone. Each place had better deals on certain parts. Cost ended up being $200.

Walker has this diagram on Rockauto that shows part numbers for all exhaust parts: http://info.rockauto.com/Walker/Detail. ... -12906.jpg Total comes to roughly $250 (shipped / after rebates) for all pipes, cat, and muffler. Is that reasonable, or should I call around local shops for prices to bend pipes?

Yes the muffler to tailpipe is rusted out. Is it best to remove the old pipes and take it to a shop to bend?

I have bad exhaust leaks and poor emissions in my '86 comanche 2.5L long bed. I've never replaced exhaust parts and have no welding experience. Where do I find parts, such as pipes, cat, muffler? Are there direct fit options or do I need to hire a welder? I was hoping to find a good condition complete exhaust system at the junkyard, but the few comanche long beds I find have the cat cut out.

I neglected to plug in the tps electrical connector after cleaning cleaning the throttle body. :thwak: Should be good now. On to the next problem....

Sorry I posted in the wrong forum. Anyway, I think my answer is the same as 4.0 engines that I found in another thread: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavist ... manual.pdf

Is there a way to test the TPS on my '86 Comanche 2.5L manual transmission? I am getting high throttle all the time. Yesterday I got all the way up to 55mph without touching the gas pedal. Worst part is at stop lights when its rev'ing high.