ktmall07

Hey all, My parking brake pedal won't stay engaged, almost like the release won't disengage completely (I can hear the teeth catch, but then it almost immediately slips along the teeth with a CLACK-CLACK-CLACK sound and the pedal releases completely). Any ideas? The brake itself works, I've tested it multiple times, it's just that the pedal won't hold, so if I want the brake to be engaged full time, I have to hold the pedal down myself, which, for obvious reasons, defeats the purpose of a parking brake to begin with

Here's a kit that comes with all necessary trim for the windows. I'm not sure how they're different exactly, but looks like there are ones for most years. https://www.ocautocarpets.com/wn-product/door-kit-10pcs-58522/ Should be a video on YouTube somewhere of a guy replacing the window trim... Does that help?

I'm about to replace the floor pans in my '92, but I noticed that one side of the driver's side seat bracket is so rusted it might have to be cut out, and it more than likely can't be salvaged. Anybody with a similar experience, what did you do to replace them? Or, does anyone know where I can find replacement Brackets? I feel like I've looked all over and can't find any that don't come attached to another bench seat Would it be easier to fab my own?

This sounds bizarrely like a movie.... good luck!! 👍

This isn't a Club specific tee, but check out this shirt! This ad is such a classic, and I found the shirt on sale, so I had to pick one up!

I assume you're referring to these? seems like it would be pretty easy make your own I bet. You can buy cheap pinstripes in different sizes, all you'd need is the font for the word Pioneer, and someone to create the decal the right size and color.

I've always been a sucker for the '86 4x4 decals too! If anybody is looking for some, I found this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-Jeep-Comanche-MJ-Sport-Pickup-Truck-Decals-Stripes-Graphics-NOS-type/383456287786?hash=item5947c69c2a:m:mMTow-gzRiET3W_knvaYbkA

I'm also very interested. Seems like if you can't find a factory original and want the same shape you have to fab it yourself anyways, so I wouldn't mind some big steel Legos!

@scaleless, do you know if JPSU-6P4.0 will work in my 92? I'm not sure it will, because I know the ohm range on the renix senders if different than the HO, but I might as well ask haha

Okay so, Got the new cluster installed, filled up the tank, and the same exact thing happened. Guage moved from empty (with the light on) to just under halfway, and it's stayed there today. The only time it has moved is when I've started the truck. It seems likely that even though the guage only moves when the truck has first started, I do indeed have a bad float, or something else wrong with the sender itself. I know it might not even be worth it right now, since the guage half works, but has anyone repaired their sender/float, or swapped in a new one? What's the process like?

Awesome. I'll post updates in this thread when I get the dash swapped!

I really appreciate the help! I'll be honest, this truck is my first experience with any kind of electrical work, so all I know about it I've learned from other threads and videos. I know this is a tangent from the original thread, but if I'm going to swap the whole cluster, do I need to do anything special to get the tach itself working? I know the oil pressure and temp senders are easy to replace, but is there anything else to keep an eye out for?

The guage only seems to move for the first 20 minutes or so after starting the truck, each time the truck is started, regardless of how long it's sat since filling up. It stops when it gets to ~3/4 of a tank at the most. I'm purchasing a full gage cluster with a tach from a 92 Cherokee, would it be too much work to just replace the fuel gauge and idiot lights with guages from the new cluster? Or should I just replace the whole cluster and then see if the fuel guage is still giving me problems?

That would be awesome. When I first fill up and start the car, the needle moves a bit (usually to around 1/8th of a tank), and then on the next few trips the same thing happens, until eventually it stops somewhere between 1/2 and 3/4 of a tank. Seems like most of the initial movement happens when the starter motor cranks, then slows down once the car starts, if that helps at all? Thanks for the help!

? Are you asking a question? I'm not sure I understand... Haha it seems like it gets stuck whenever the truck is off, but if the truck is on, the guage will very slowly move up. Usually after about 20-30 minutes of driving, the guage will stay pretty constant, until I stop the truck and restart it, then it moves up a little more. So when I say a couple days, I guess I really mean 4-5 20 minute trips and it reaches about 3/4 of a tank, where it stops. Is there a way to fix the float itself if it's bad, or do I need a new sending unit?

Hey All, My fuel guage never makes it all the way to full after filling up, usually taking a day or two to make it up past halfway, then stopping at around 3/4 of a tank. When it reaches empty, I typically have about 4-6 gallons left before the tank is actually empty. Wondering if maybe the float keeps getting stuck somewhere, or if the guage is just not getting the right amount of resistance? I have a stock 92 SWB, 18.5 gallon tank. All the threads I've found with similar issues are on Renix systems, so I'm not sure how well they correlate, and none of them really have this same issue. Any ideas?

Jeepmjga, that sounds great. Minuit, do you have a picture of the OEM setup? I'd love to see it to compare so I know what to look for. With any luck, the system was installed after R12 was made illegal, and is already setup for R134a! haha

Here is a picture of the left side of the engine bay. You can see near the bottom center the rear of the compressor, below that is the top of the receiver-drier. I'm planning on cleaning the engine bay here in the next couple days too, it's pretty dirty haha

Here are some general pictures of what I found: 1 and 2 are both sides of the compressor, old, but in relatively good shape. 3 and 4 are the low pressure switch, with the two pins like you said. It all looks in good condition. I have see no reason to think that the system doesn't work, however the compressor never turns off like it should if it's low on freon, so I'm not sure what that would mean. Maybe the switch itself is bad/never triggering? One obvious sign is the stain on the hose coming out of the top of the receiver, which most likely needs to be replaced. All the hoses should probably be replaced when I convert anyway. Other than that, connections on all the hoses are solid. Any thoughts?

I really appreciate the help! I'll post pictures tonight when I get a second.

I know very little about AC systems in general, all I know I've researched in the past few weeks since buying the truck haha I've watched videos and read write-ups from others who have done the conversion, but I've never done anything like it myself.. Your help would be greatly appreciated! 👍

So, on my build sheet one of the order options listed is the 4XA Air Conditioning Bypass. However, under the hood, it seems like all the pieces for AC are hooked up and working, (the face of the compressor spins correctly when active, and the ECU even adjusts idle speed when the compressor is on), and all parts seem to be in good condition. There is no bypass pulley (obviously, haha) and no other obvious signs that AC should not work. There is no refrigerant in the system however, so the air comes out hot. I was thinking of trying to do the R12 to R134a conversion before an EVAC and recharge, but I'm a little confused now. I have a few questions: 1) I thought that for XJ's and MJ's the AC bypass just meant none of the parts were installed to begin with, however after running over some diagrams, this seems to be an original system, fully installed. Am I incorrect in that understanding? 2) Is it possible that the original owner (I am the second) had an AC system installed by a separate party after purchasing the truck?

She needs some new paint in spots, (and a new driver's side floor pan, haha) but other than that she's real pretty, isn't she? I've got a couple touch ups in mind for her coming up soon!

Thanks for this! I'm excited to be here!

'92 Comanche SWB, 4.0 HO, AX-15, 4x4, D30 front, D35 rear Build Date: 9/91 Current Location: Northern Utah Status: Bone Stock, 132k original miles, Runs smooth like butter. Will be restored and used as a DD until she can't go anymore, then made into a crawler! Current Owner: Paden Allsup