HellFighter55

I have a question on the bump stops, did you cut them or did you remove them all together? I did this and the rear of a 1991 Comanche rwd is stiffer than a piece of hardwood when hitting pot holes on the county roads. Sitting at 3in drop in the rear and 2.5 in the front using ZJ stock rear coils from a v8. I also know that the rear axle is a 8.8.

Right, but you can have too many Jeeps. Take for instance I started with 3 and now I own 9, with 2 F250s.

So I was able to score a 258 4.2l L6 out of a CJ-7, Decided to rebuild it with a XJ 4.0l head and get rid of the carburator set up. Yes, I have done tons of research. Also here is the link that I followed from MotorTrend. : https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/4-0l-head-swap-on-4-2l/ Both the 4.0L & 4.2L engines take the same Camshaft and lifters, rods and piston rods are longer. But Like they say you will maybe not notice the difference. As for the transmission, decided to drop the AW4, I have a brand new rebuilt AX-15 with 4.0L L6 Bellhousing sitting in the shop. I bought it for the Skamanche build. But that is gonna take a little bit longer to build as I am currently moving. In total I now own 4 Jeep Cherokee XJs, 88, 94, 95, 96. I couldn't pass up on the 96 as it was under a grand and has 400k original miles, still drives like a fine tuned watch. I bought it from the original owner. Has had oil changes every 3,500 miles. I was shocked. But then again Gypsy has 390k on the speedometer. And its just a Jeep Jeep world for me guys. In total I own 9 Jeep models this also includes 2 ZJs, and 2 WJs. In my defence I was left unsupervised. I decided to go down this route due to not wanting to deal with another 4.6l from ATK Stroker. I have had bad experiences with thier customer service. Not saying that ATK is a bad company, they just have a bad customer service. Moses Ludel Posted November 26, 2014 https://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/481-jeep-xj-40l-to-cj-7-engine-transmission-swap/ Engine mounting brackets should swap over from your current 4.2L/258 inline six. Check the back of engine/transmission length issues and the 4.0L/AX15 measurements from the bellhousing face at the engine block to the transfer case. Take into consideration any adapter thickness, too. This will dictate the final position of the transfer case and whether drivelines need cutting or added tube length. If so, you'll also be repositioning the transmission/transfer case mount position on the skid plate, a relatively easy task. The torque brace pin will need relocating, too. If there is significant movement, check the transfer case shift lever position with the floorboard opening, this may require adjustment...Let us know what you discover here. The wiring can be handled one of two ways. If separate Mopar EFI kit parts are available, specifically the wiring harness for the first MPI/EFI kit patterned after the 1994-95 YJ Wrangler factory EFI, that would be a ready made harness and include the wiring to the fuel pump near the gas tank. (Yes, you will need a PCM-triggered electric fuel pump, it can be externally mounted like the Mopar EFI kit pump.) If this harness is not available, you're left with using the harness from the XJ Cherokee and following a wiring schematic to tie all of this together. This does require some automotive electrical savvy, it can be done, many do it. You'll be using everything from the PCM to the over-engine harness, EFI hookups, the coolant sensor wiring, and so forth. Each signal that the 60-way (terminal count) PCM requires needs consideration. If there is a wiring schematic of the Mopar EFI Conversion Kit available (possibly HESCO can supply), that would be very helpful, even if you use the XJ factory wiring. Note: Your 1991 4.0L MPI/EFI is a two-rail type and requires a return fuel line from the EFI fuel rail to the fuel tank. This is not difficult to devise, as the 4.2L likely uses a return pipe from the fuel filter to the tank with its mechanical fuel pump system. You can mate to that piping if it's large enough in diameter or fabricate a return pipe and hoses that will join the fuel tank at the same location as your original fuel return line. Use higher pressure EFI-rated fuel hose and Euro or EFI type clamps. If you want to see how all of this comes together, I cover it in detail within the Jeep® CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86, available from 4WD parts sources, Advance Adapters or directly from Bentley Publishers. Here is overview material on your subject and this install: 1) Carburetion Versus EFI Conversion for the 4.2L Jeep Inline Six...Should you convert your 4.2L Jeep inline six to EFI? In this feature, Moses Ludel contrasts the BBD carburetor and the Mopar Performance EFI conversion kit. www.4wdmechanix.com/Carburetion-Versus-EFI-Conversion-for-the-4.2L-Jeep-Inline-Six.html 2) How-to: Tuning the Fuel Injected Jeep Inline Six Stroker Motor...The Jeep inline six stroker motor with EFI or MPI develops maximum performance when tuned properly. Selecting the correct MPI injectors and matching the fuel supply system to the bigger engine and higher horsepower output require the modifications described here. www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Tuning-the-Fuel-Injected-Jeep-Inline-Six-Stroker-Motor.html 3) Jeep Fuel Pressure Requirements...Fuel pump and system pressure is different for carburetion, TBI and MPI. In this article, Moses Ludel discusses fuel pressure requirements for various Jeep engines and chassis designs. www.4wdmechanix.com/Jeep-Fuel-Pressure-Requirements.html (This article has detailed and helpful illustrations, Don. View closely.) 3) Jeep CJ Inline Six Stroker Rebuild...Moses Ludel shares details about the Jeep inline six stroker upgrades. 1972-86 CJ models,1972-up Jeepster Commando models, full-size J-trucks and Cherokee 4WDs with the 232 or 258 inline six can each benefit from a 4.5L, 4.6L and 4.7L Jeep inline six stroker engine upgrade. www.4wdmechanix.com/Jeep-CJ-Inline-Six-Stroker-Rebuild.html 4) YJ & TJ Jeep Stroker Six Upgrade...Moses Ludel shares details about the Jeep inline six stroker upgrade for the 1991-up YJ and TJ Wrangler. When the original 4.0L inline six is needs rebuilding, consider the 4.5L, 4.6L and 4.7L Jeep inline six stroker rebuild option. Complete history and evaluation available here! www.4wdmechanix.com/YJ-&-TJ-Jeep-Stroker-Six-Upgrade.html 5) Rebuilding the Two-Barrel BBD Feedback Carburetor...The 1981-86 Jeep CJ models equipped with a 258 inline six have the Carter BBD two-barrel carburetor. Many owners and shops find this carburetor challenging. In this detailed 'how-to', Moses Ludel troubleshoots and restores the BBD to 'as new' standards. www.4wdmechanix.com/Rebuilding-the-Two-Barrel-BBD-Feedback-Carburetor.html I would say that your biggest challenge is not the mechanical side but rather the time-consuming wiring side. I like wiring work, not everyone does. Splices for EFI should be wire lapped and rosin flux soldered, covered with heavy duty or multiple layer heat shrink tubing. Voltage readings are critical for EFI, simple butt-crimp connectors cannot assure a proper voltage reading, and the open ends of cheap splice connectors beg issues like corrosion and corrosion wicking up the wires. This is a start

I still might enjoy putting a 5.9l v8 under the hood but that would require a motor, lucky I have the 5.2l LA 318 sitting in a 1969 Dodge D100. So you might just get the build on that. I might even upgrade it to stand alone fuel injection. Shouldn't be that hard to convert the engine over.

This build wasn't planned in fact it was mostly done in less then 6 months of planning. I have most of the part on hand because I enjoy reading from multiple different forums like this one, Blue Oval, 72-87 Chevrolet, 30's Pontiac Forum, 99/04 WJ Forum, 60 degree Forum, 80's Celica Forum, Cherokee Forum, like the difference between a D30 HP from 1995 with ABS has the same U joints from the Dana 44. I like to retain information. Like this: Pre-95 Cherokee XJ Front Axle: Dana 30 with a vacuum disconnect Differential Location: Drivers side Stock axle splines: 27 (upgradeable to 30 splines) Lug Pattern: 5 on 4.5" Width: 60" from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface Notes: This was not the most desirable axle due to the vacuum disconnect which was prone to failure. A Dana 30 from a '95 1/2 or later XJ/ZJ is a common upgrade which eliminates the vacuum disconnect. If you choose the 95+ XJ D30 it is a a stronger High-pinion version. Many lockers are available for the D30 axle. Popular Axle Upgrades: Front Axle upgrades to replace the Dana 30 low pinion (in early XJ's and ZJ's) High pinion D30 out of a 95+ XJ Notes: This would be a bolt-in! 4 cylinder XJ versions have 4.10 gears! This also has larger 760 u-joints! 80-91 Wagoneer Narrow-Track Dana 44 Differential Location: Drivers side Lug pattern: 6 on 5.5" Stock axle splines: 30 spline is common (upgradeable to 35 spline) Width: 60" from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface Notes: Right width for XJ or ZJ's, can be converted for 5 on 5.5 or 8 on 6.5" lug pattern, they are relatively cheap and easily found. Avoid the vacuum disconnect version. Identified by: stop sign like diff cover, spring-under housing, 60" width Front axle upgrades for WJ D30's (65" width axles) 74-79 Cherokee Chief/J-truck Wide-track D44 Differential location: Passenger side Lug pattern: 6 on 5.5" and 8 on 6.5" Stock axle splines: 30 spline is common (upgradeable to 35 spline) Width: 66" wide (1" wider then WJ) Notes: Has HD axle tubes, easy to convert to other lug patterns New Wrangler Rubicon JK axles D44 Differential location: Passenger Lug pattern: 5 on 5.5" Stock axle splines: 30 splines (with factory e-locker) Width: 66.75" wide (1.75" wider then factory) Notes: Comes with factory e-locker, but will need the mounting brackets welded on. A factory wiring switch can be used for a factory look and function.

I am still working on this. As it just got a 4.6L/Ax15/Np231 SYE and a 05 Liberty KL c8.25 with disc brakes. I have had to pause all projects because I was injured last year in a car wreck. But I am far from done.

Might as well show you guys some of my other builds. 1995 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4x4 I am gonna show you what drives me. Seems how I have been building this one for 4 years now. And I still am yet to be finished. So, I started with a stock 1995 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4x4. I was given this out of a old relationship. The girl who owned it didn't know much about Jeeps so it was more if you fix it, it's yours. So I went through everything that had to do with starting. So I bought a repair manual and watched multiple video's on youtube showing how to replace the sensors up and around the 4.0l. Found that the crank position sensor was shot. So a $20 replacement fixed it. I went everywhere with this Jeep. I decided to join my Volunteer Fire Department and I saw a 1991 Jeep Comanche 2wd parked in the fire house parking lot couldn't take my eyes off of it. It was love at first sight. The owner is an old man who bought it new in 1991. And said he has driven it only in town. And I explained that I was interested in his comanche, Of course he said it wasn't for sale, but he needed a few parts and asked if I had any of the headlight bezels and grilles that would fit, And I asked if he needed help or would like it if I replaced his broken bezels? He requested that I join the Fire Department and said if you join you can work on it. So I did join. But back to the 95-XJ, I decided that it was time to add a lift kit as I looked around and looked at many different versions I remembered that a 3" kit would be big enough to start with, it would get my foot in the door to do more. So I looked for a cheap suspension lift. I know that some here hate Rough Country Lifts. So I bought a 3" lift kit that was in my price range.. So I had stock rims with 30x9.5R15s with a small lift. And everything started right there.... LOL Drove it around until I noticed that the leaf springs were starting to bend and I was like huh, how do we fix that? Well did lots of research and ended up building bastard leaf springs which lifted the rear up 3.5, then found some pages on facebook for Jeeps and was told many times that my Jeep wasn't a Jeep and that I should sell it for a Wrangler. So right there I decided to build the ultimate XJ just because some people need to be proven wrong. So a friend of mine named Duane, and myself set out to building this thing into a Wheeler but also a Daily Driver. My buddy and I went everywhere with this rig and his Geo Tracker. Those are some of my best memories. So while I was building my XJ he was building his Geo. I have a video somewhere when his geo ran out of fuel and I was pushing him with my XJ. One night he needed a ride back to his house so I offered as he had something wrong with his geo, So we pull out on a highway that is posted 55 mph. And all hell breaks loose, I put my foot on the floor and my thought was this 1000lbs pound elk walks into my lane and I figured it would move. So I look at Duane and tell him to relax body. We had just finished watching RIPD movie, So he did and I hit this elk at what I thought was 55 mph but sadly wasn't I hit this animal at 60 mph and thought I totaled my Jeep. Yes, I was mad so I hoped out through the driver side window with a pistol and did what everyone should and put this animal out of its misery. Took Law Enforcement 3 to 4 hrs to come out to help. Explained who I was and what I did. Also explained that I did in fact put the animal down. The Officer was really understanding and asked his questions saying that it doesn't look that bad. But I thought it was. So he said he would need to speak to my insurance company in my town of Packwood, Wash. And I stated that I would meet him there with the Jeep fixed. SO I explained that I live less then a mile away. And he let me drive my Jeep home. So as soon as I got home I started by popping the hood. My dad came out and asked if I was alright, and I responded in a hateful voice "Yes, I am a little mad." So my dad being the kind of man that I aspire to be. Said "Calm down and think, I know you can fix this mess" I then took a breath and asked "Hey, can you bring me the lights from the shed?" And he said "Sure." So I started removing everything that was broken on my Jeep, I took a few photos to show what I was dealing with. I spent hours while my dad was letting me fix my issue and shared a few beers with me. Knowing that I pay attention to details like the unibody was slightly bent, the fender skin was bent and the header panel was shredded. I hooked a chain up to the jeep on the corner of the unibody and pulled out the torch knowing that I might not be able to fix the damage but enough to get it to my uncle's who has a spare XJ that I have been using for parts. I called my girlfriend who is now my wife and told her what had happened and she said "is there is anything she can do to help me feel better then she will do so." I explained that I would need some money to rebuild my Jeep. She said "she was on her way to me." As I heated up the unibody with the torch on the driver side I proceeded to hook a chain to a piece I used to pull dents out of other vehicles in the past. I had my dad hook it to his SUV which happened to be a S10 Blazer and pull the unibody straight enough to where I could put my spare header panel. We straightened out the bent unibody to where it was only off by 1/4 of an inch and I was happy. So the next morning I called the officer and said that I wouldn't be able to make it to my insurance to meet him and he said that was fine so we rescheduled in the next 3 days. The next morning my gf showed up and pointed out that the Jeep didn't look that bad and I must of had 1 too many beers with my dad because the header panel was fitting. I explained everything to her she gave me $200 and said go get your parts that you need. So I went an hour north to my uncles and asked if I could pull parts to fix my jeep and he requested that I just buy the other 94 XJ for $200. So I did. I parked my Jeep in front of the other Jeep as I started rebuilding mine with the parts that I knew that I needed. I pulled a 1/4 Milwaukee impact out of my jeep and started by removing the the other fenders, hood, header panel ect... I started building my Jeep right there in front of my uncle who was drinking a dr. pepper and he said if I needed anything welded then he would do it. So I pulled everything from the driver side of my 95 Jeep that was in way where I decided to cut the unibody. I drilled out the spot welds on both Jeeps and proceeded to do it the right way from the start. I asked my uncle if I could just stick weld the unibody as he said if that's what you want to do then go for it. So as the engine harness was removed from the white 94 Jeep Cherokee. As I cut the whole unibody from the Jeep. I cut the inner fender well out and proceeded to add the other parts back to where the core support should be. I then tack welded everything back to my 95 XJ. I mocked up everything and then burned a bead back to where the factory built these. And added weld protectant. I went as far as being able to put a NOS fender back on the Jeep and was able to use the factory bolts to mount the fender. I did all of this and still wasn't done. As for the bottom bolt on the fender it had to be cut from the fender so self tapping tin screws were used. I look back at the photos which make me smile. Knowing that I was able to fix my Jeep. So I posted the photos to the group and the guys who were saying that hateful stuff posted in and said that your Jeep is now built not bought. And I was shocked. I stated that I wasn't done. To where I was thinking about adding bigger tires and a different set of rims. So I went back to my insurance with my blue/white fender Jeep and both the Officer & my insurance company said that they can't believe that it's the same Jeep. as I pointed out that the vin numbers match. As on the passenger side of the unibody the vin number is stamped. And the Officer said your right, Also he stated that he owns a XJ too and I should join his group on FB. So I did. I then returned home to where my dad saw my jeep and smiled. Which made me very proud. To where do I stop build? Nope. I then went back to building this little daily. I had the chance to replace the dana 35 for a c8.25 that had to happen. So I decided to drop the old 30x9.5x15 rims and tires and go for 265/75/16 I found a set of KL Liberty rims. I knew that the offset was gonna cause rubbing so I went with a set of aluminum spacers to mount the set of tires I had bought. I had them mounted and balanced. And waited till mid December to mount them to the Jeep that was a bad Idea. I froze my butt off outside doing all this during a blizzard. So spring came around and I had some time free from work and decided that I wanted to upgrade the tires and rims to a complete set and add off road bumpers. So I looked through 4wp and amazon found some and waited for them to be delivered. I was excited and noticed that I would have to trim the fenders and I didn't have a grinder so.. I used a pair of my tin snips to cut the fenders out. That was hard and time consuming but I did it. Used tin screws to mount the fender flares as it's either fender flairs or mud flaps required here in my part of Washington State. And I was on my last warning with WSP. Once everything was done, I felt like I was building a dream. Then decided to paint the Jeep 1 color. yes it's rattle can International Blue for Farm Equipment by Ace Hardware, Then added the offroad bumpers after dropping the stock curtis hitch.

BleepinJeep has push button hood pins for these jeeps... I might go with those. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANMuhqA2GPc

175k on the 1986 Jeep Skamanche 4x4 with original [GM 2.8l v6 LR2] <- POS ENGINE [IMO] I hate the 2.8l v6 or it's the Varajet II Carburetor. Whatever power you thought you had is now gone at the ax5... It's perfect if you wanna do 35 mph on the main road. My 95 XJ had 390k on the engine before I bent 4 rods and flattened the cam and lifters. Currently sad that I have to rebuild the original motor. But it never blew the head gasket. So I am pretty impressed with the 4.0l H.O. engine. Guess you shouldn't pull 3/4 ton & 1 ton trucks. Now it has 390k on the Body with a built 4.6L L6/Ax15/Np231 SYE kit... and other add on's....

This is why I own 7 Different Jeeps. 1969 Jeep J10 Gladiator [Commander] 1986 Jeep Comanche 4x4 <- Current Project 1991 Jeep C[hero]kee Sport 4x4 [Tonto] <- Dad's Jeep 1994 Jeep C[hero]kee Country 4x4 <- [A.P.S.E] Deceased Brother's Jeep 1995 Jeep C[hero]kee Sport 4x4 [Gypsy Danger] 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4x4 [Geronimo] DD 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4 [Wife's] 2nd Project

@Tim. Here's a photo of my AMC 20: This one is sitting in my 1986 Jeep Comanche MJ Long Bed 4x4. I have had some of the members here decrypt the Vin and from what I have been told my Amc 20 is the unicorn that everyone is looking for as for the gear ratio this one has stock 4.10 ratio. @Pete M also has stated multiple times that my mj has the Dealership Add On: winch bumper as well. So unicorns do exists...

Currently waiting for the truss kits to get here before I start tearing into the 86. Also I found a duel headlight 1984 Wagoneer in my area that still has everything original including the turbine wheels. I will see if I can get a photo. So there are 3 rare Jeeps in my town.

86 Skamanche [MJ]

If possible Pete seems how I did forget that I had this thread.

I have moved this 86 Skamanche [MJ] for the new forum write up everyone. Sorry.

I did.

Not much of a big writer. But let's get it. So back in 2019 I bought or so traded a set of Subs/amp to a 16 year old kid. [who knows me as his mechanic because I am always playing with JEEPs] so to speak And isn't into the JEEP LIFE #Comanche, #Cherokee. But knows that I owned around 7 to 13 Jeeps at that time between 71 to 03 that being Cherokee's, CJs, J10, J20, Wagoneer, Liberty [Non Diesel], Grand Cherokee [ZJ], G.C. [WJ] But I am known as the The Jeep Mechanic. With all that being said I didn't ask to be put on a pedestal. Let's FFwd to today, That MJ sits in my yard and I am here writing up a build of the plan and I want to take you guys on the journey with me. More because I honestly think, that a cocaine addiction would of been cheaper. but let's not fool each other. Step 1: Acquire a MJ: 1985 to 1992 Jeep Comanche preferably part-time four wheel drive. 1986 Jeep Comanche MJ 4x4 Due to where I live, we see lots of snow, rain, and most of the things in the North West like animals like the famous death by suicidal 1000 lbs elk at 55 mph. And as a Volly Firefighter safety means everything that being at a car wreck, aid call or fire. So please use the proper safety equipment like glasses/ goggles and gloves if you do anything that could be hazardous to your health. Step 2: Engine Replacement: Research what are the possible engine/transmission/ t-case swaps available to yourself and or budget. The Current issue with the 2.8l v6 LR2 is it's a very weak engine poor oil circulation and all the emission stuff didn't help it during 1986. Besides what torque you had went straight to the transmission. So upon discovery that it's best to pull the motor and swap in a 3.1l/3.4l because both happen to be based off the little POS but are better. I am still throwing the idea of fuel injection around with a stand alone system from a v8. Let's be clear I could swap Mercedes OM617, Dodge 5.2l/5.9l,/4.7l/4bt or Chevrolet 3.1/3.4l/4.3l Vortec/ 327, 350, 383, 400, 6.2l turbo diesel, possible mild built 5.3l Third Gen LS, Ford 4.0l v6, 302, 351, Toyota Tundra 5.7lI really wanted to see how y'all think bout that Redneck Idea... As for myself I have a huge list that could be obtained via junkyards[friend's back yards] /Facebook Marketplace Step 3: Start by removing the parts/ components that make this rig a Jeep. "This is always the hardest part for me. Because someone assembled this truck to what they ordered and I am here about to completely remove the hard work back to a blank platform in order to put time, money, blood, sweat and tears into making something for myself out of someone's dream truck". Step 4: Remove Drivetrain: The Engine/Drivetrain/t-case. [Save the NP207] Step 5: Remove interior happens to be Porno Red [Without braking the plastic clips and or loosing the screws I might be swapping it out with the Tan Interior from my 95-XJ or Grey Interior from 91 to 94 XJ]. Step 6: Remove stock 2.8l Carburetor the fuel delivery system from the engine and throw the Rochester Varajet II from the nearest bridge. Step 7: Remove Stock Axles: Pull both Dana 30 [HP] & Unicorn AMC 20 [Front Axle is being replaced with a 1971 Ford Dana 44 Open Knuckle Kingpin Just swapped from drums to disc brakes.] As for the AMC 20 I will be doing a full truss kit to fix the known issues with the housing. I could also swap the rear end to a C8.25 from a KL or 9.25 from my 1969 Dodge Sweptline W100, I have other projects that are donating parts to build this Skamanche. Step 8: Remove The Rest of chassis harness Pull all the remaining electrical from the chassis [also includes the bed/tail light housings and existing Ramsey Winch and Factory Fog lights.]Might be adding the 1991 to 1995 Jeep Cherokee XJ wire harness with the Stand alone Fuel Injection system from a Chevrolet. Step 9: Remove all Parts from Unibody: Remove the the fenders, hood, header panel, doors, glass including the slider rear window. [Hopefully getting ready to fix all dents that are on the body.] Also I would rather have a short bed but I might choose to bob the stock bed. Still tracking down a set of doors to replace the broken lock system on the driver door. And the handle was broken off as soon as I signed the title. Ironic right? Also replacing the stock mirrors with a set from 99 to 01 Jeep Cherokee. Step 10: Modifying Stock Unibody/ Adding Ect: Get the chassis ready for the stiffener kits add the weld in rock sliders with the long arm kit Might even mock up the new engine mounts with radiator support being modified. Neohic had the right idea with replacing the stock X in the frame and I think I will do the same. Also already have the in tank fuel filter modified for my 99 WJ and tuck for a possible tank swap. Not sure how well the stock MJ 20GAL will hold up to what I have planned for this MJ. [Decided to go with a 4 link kit from Clayton Offroad even use a Iron Rock Offroad adjustable trac bar kit and 1 ton steering conversion from Rusty's Offroad. Step 11: Body Filler/Primer: Get everything ready for body filler/ primer [Refurbish the Original COMANCHE logos for the front Fenders. Or CNC the Custom SKAMANCHE Emblems out and the Custom setup for the tailgate. Step 12: Transmission: options: AX-15 is the desired replacement for the AX-5 but a NV3550 or NV4500 is something that I am currently looking into depending on the the engine that will replace the 2.8l v6 Step 13: Painless Wire Harness or Build a Custom Wire harness for the MJ out of a 1991 to 1995 Jeep Cherokee as I have 5 harness's laying around that I have pulled from that exact year of Jeep Cherokee just incase for a Build or Rework to 95-XJ Build. Step 14: Install the New Glass that was pulled from my 1995 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 XJ Sport like the windshield. Step 15: Front Bumper & Rear Bumper: I am looking into replacing the stock winch OEM bumper because if I go with a v8 the radiator uses the spot where the cross member has been removed from Ramsey to mount the RH6000 winch. I might use a pushed out version of a custom winch bumper that matches the body lines and match into the header panel. The straight tube look is okay on my 1995 XJ but I want something more custom that matches the slight curve to the Comanche. As for the stock rear bumper that will be dropped off as I am gonna want a armored rear end to match the front bumper. Step 16: Brake System: Might be pulled from another 1999 to 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ without the ABS, I could pull the brake booster from my 1995 Jeep Cherokee as I have already removed the ABS unit from that rig. And the plus would be I have it on hand. If I am missing anything feel free to add your 2cents. Step 17: Step 18: Step 19: Step 20: Step 21: Step 22: Step 23: Step 24: Step 25: Pretty sure I am missing some information that is currently available here on the forum or Pete will chime in to fill in the blanks. I am also pretty sure that I will never finish this project because it's the journey that excites me. This is my 1995 Jeep Cherokee Sport SE 4x4 3.5 Lift with 265/75/R16 sitting Next to my best friends Modified 1988/93 Built Jeep Cherokee XJ 3 In Lift with 33's. This photo shows My Dad's 1991 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4x4 Tonto vs 1995 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4x4 XJ Gypsy Danger @eaglescout526 was able to decrypt the vin number for me and this is what we are starting with. 1986 Jeep COMANCHE 4x4 with Command-Trac

I could so go with a 3.1/3.4l as my 86 has a 2.8l v6 with AX-5, NP207 but then again I have a freshly rebuilt 91 XJ AX-15 that has the 4.0l bellhousing. I have a full spare 94 XJ, 01 XJ, 98 XJ that currently are sitting because of a electric issues and or parts that have been pulled for my 95-XJ build. But I do like what you did with your build, @neohic And I am really thinking about v8 swapping my MJ because I have a 71 Ford D44 Kingpin with open knuckles that I just swapped from drums to disc brakes. So the real question is. Do I or anyone else think that a 3.4l will last when using a D44/Amc20/8.8/D44 in the long run? Should I go from a AX15 to NV3550 [Dodge] or NV4500 [Dodge] with a 5.2l or 5.9l v8. Not trying to hijack your post. I just have so many questions.

Figured that you all would like to see the AMC 20 sitting in the 86-MJ.

right, currently I am pretty surprised that I own such a rig. Kinda looks like a time machine.

So I pulled the rear end and it happens to be a AMC Model 20 4.10 ratio with 29 spline. Kinda happy that it's not a D35. But kinda sad that it's not a D44. But show must go on. Will be pulling the 2.8l/ax5 swap both out for a 91 to 96 4.0l H.O/Ax15

Is there anything that is special about the 86 Comanche's besides they have the worst engine in my opinion?

Also found this as well.

Figured this needed to be seen. I found this in my glove box.

I would rather have a set of bucket seats over the bench anyday. only reason to why is because I am 6'4 and the bench takes up more room then a set of bucket seats. Just to say I feel crowded.